Subwoofer quit working

[Badcompany1995]

So I have a JL 10" W0V2 sub and a JL 360.2 amp. A few weeks back I finally bridged the amp and about a week went by and my sub quit working. And then out of nowhere it would come back on but not for long. It got to the point that if I shook the enclosure that the sub would come on for a few seconds and shut back off. Would I be safe in assuming that I have blown my subwoofer? Thanks for the replies

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[BigBearAl]

So I have a JL 10" W0V2 sub and a JL 360.2 amp. A few weeks back I finally bridged the amp and about a week went by and my sub quit working. And then out of nowhere it would come back on but not for long. It got to the point that if I shook the enclosure that the sub would come on for a few seconds and shut back off. Would I be safe in assuming that I have blown my subwoofer? Thanks for the replies
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Try checking the connections to speakers inside enclosure, they may be loose. Also make sure all wires are secure throughout rest of sound system. If blown you should hear distortion when they play.

 

[Badcompany1995]

I have checked all connections inside the enclosure and at the amp. Ground and power wires included. The sub does sound a little distorted. Sounds like static

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[bananas0n]

Is it a single 4 ohm voice coil?

 

[Badcompany1995]

Is it a single 4 ohm voice coil?

Yes it is

 

[bananas0n]

Yes it is

According to Crutchfield, that amp is capable of 110w RMS bridged. That woofer is rated for 100-300w RMS. You're probably over heating the amp.

 

[Badcompany1995]

According to Crutchfield, that amp is capable of 110w RMS bridged. That woofer is rated for 100-300w RMS. You're probably over heating the amp.

I tried to go back to just using one channel bit still no bass. And I haven't seen my amp go in protection at all. It's driving me crazy because I have pretty much rewired everything. I've had this same setup for 3 or 4 years and never a problem until I bridged it a few weeks ago

 

[bananas0n]

I tried to go back to just using one channel bit still no bass. And I haven't seen my amp go in protection at all. It's driving me crazy because I have pretty much rewired everything. I've had this same setup for 3 or 4 years and never a problem until I bridged it a few weeks ago

Oops, I read that wrong. It should be 360w RMS when bridged. I would check resistance on both channels.

Is the amp powering on? Just no output?

 

[Badcompany1995]

Oops, I read that wrong. It should be 360w RMS when bridged. I would check resistance on both channels. Is the amp powering on? Just no output?

No problem. How do I check resistance? And it powers up fine just no audio

 

[bananas0n]

No problem. How do I check resistance? And it powers up fine just no audio

You'll need a multimeter. With the amp OFF, place the multimeter on the ohm scale and use the leads like you would if you were checking voltage. Basically just looking for a closed circuit. Assuming you have good inputs (RCAs, etc), and you're not getting any output, it is probably a bad amp.

Or if you have the money for a sine tone generator, it makes this process a heck of a lot easier. But it's probably not worth investing in one unless you do this for a living. Or you love having tools lol.

 

[Badcompany1995]

I've tried that. I don't know what I'm looking for though lol. And I've checked several times to see if the amp is hot but I don't feel any heat at all

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[BoogerMan]

Fast forward to about 2:15. If you take your sub out of the box and look at the tinsel leads, is one or both loose or broken?

When you said you shook the box and it would sometimes come on, this was the first thing that came to mind...

 

[Badcompany1995]

Thank you, this is getting frustrating because I can't figure out the problem. I hope I can figure it out

 

[Badcompany1995]

Those seem to be intact with no movement when I checked them. So do you think it would be the amp or the sub having the problem?

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[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Try a diff amp. If you get the same thing, something in the wiring is going on.

I've had a remote wire that turns on the amp after the radio comes on that would come on/turn off whenever it felt like. Long story short, the remote wire wasn't nowhere near tight crimped to the other remote wire from the radio from the previous owner. So I recripmed and all went good.

Connections are the biggest issue when diagnosing/troubleshooting. It often gets overlooked so make sure you check inside the sub enclosure.

I Might ask....how is your electrical? Some JL amps are made to run on strong electrical. Sometimes they can cause problems leading the driver think it's something else.