Subwoofer making weird noise on short notes

What subs and what amp?
And what box specs because bad box tuning can exaggerate the effect. Especially if the box is oversized or tuned to high

And there is multiple forms of bottoming out.

It is true that the dust cap might have come unglued but thats unlikely.
it was the "DUAL 12" 2,400 WATT SDR SERIES COMPLETE SUBWOOFER PACKAGE WITH VENTED ENCLOSURE AND AMPLIFIER" package from skar, With 2 12' SDR-2X12D4 subwoofers, the Skar Audio RP-1200.1D Monoblock amp and the Skar wiring kit.
 
So when i first got the subs I noticed this, Overlooked it as something minor as it wasn't that bad untill a couple days ago i realized it suddenly started doing it very frequently. The noise is hard to describe, it almost sounds similair to a dog bark, it only happens on the short kicks, and in songs that utilize that alot it gets very annoying. I have no idea what could be wrong with it, because in songs like Many men (21 savage) or Put on (jeezy) where the bass is more constant, there is no issues at all.

Post up a video, if you can.
 
it was the "DUAL 12" 2,400 WATT SDR SERIES COMPLETE SUBWOOFER PACKAGE WITH VENTED ENCLOSURE AND AMPLIFIER" package from skar, With 2 12' SDR-2X12D4 subwoofers, the Skar Audio RP-1200.1D Monoblock amp and the Skar wiring kit.

You are looking at max power ratings on those subs. They are only 600 watt rms subs. Never look at max power ratings on subs, speakers or amps. It sounds like you are bottoming out. Turn the gain down a hair and see if it still does it.
 
I have also had subs do this. On quick, loud bass notes the Voice coil would bottom out and sound like a fart/bark. Too much instant power and not enough suspension travel to keep the hard VC former from hitting the backplate.

Solution = Set the gain so that there is no over-excursion.
 
My subs will actually only bottom out if my passenger door is open. For some reason just opening the passenger door during a demo will cause them to unload and bottom out. Are you driving when it happens? Try playing your system parked with both doors closed and see if it happens.
 
Yeah the SDR subs are rated over their power ratings. They will not handle 600 true watts for an extended period of time without some issues. The 1200 is definitely overpowering those subs. My guess is that you are bottoming out.


Keep this in mind. I have run a ton of Skar Audio products. That RP amp puts out rated power plus some. You could be looking at anywhere between 1200-1400 watts coming from that amp @ 1ohm. But if not adjusted properly, that power can get nasty real quick. Clipping those SDR subs will cause failure quickly. I would suggest finding someone with or purchasing an O-scope or a DD1. Tune it properly and those subs will last. I can vouch for the customer service at Skar being really helpful at replacing product due to manufacturer failure. But they will not replace a sub with a burnt voice coil.
 
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I wouldn't personally buy a Skar sub below the VXF level, their 1500 watt sub.

I would only personally consider using these: VXF's, ZVX's, or the EVL's.

Less than the VXF, I would personally go with American Bass or SoundQubed, at that power level.
 
Yep. Just heard something similar with my little 8 inch I blew last week, only I had zero notice before hand. It was sounding awesome one song and blew right away on the next. Screwing around with it and ran to much power into a 300 watt sub, moved it way too much on a certain song and killed it. I also saw the clip light blink right as the sub barked at me and failed. This is why it’s important to set gains right and know your max volume level you can play, especially on bass heavy music. Doing what I did and just plugging it in and playing it without doing a proper gain setting will cost you some burned out subs sooner or later.
 
Yep. Just heard something similar with my little 8 inch I blew last week, only I had zero notice before hand. It was sounding awesome one song and blew right away on the next. Screwing around with it and ran to much power into a 300 watt sub, moved it way too much on a certain song and killed it. I also saw the clip light blink right as the sub barked at me and failed. This is why it’s important to set gains right and know your max volume level you can play, especially on bass heavy music. Doing what I did and just plugging it in and playing it without doing a proper gain setting will cost you some burned out subs sooner or later.

Good subs can withstand abuse. Hell I'm running 2k to a pair of dd506 6.5inch subs. They are only rated at like 250w each. I beat the crap out of them and they are still fine. I have bottomed them out, I have clipped them. They are just tough. Are they special? No but they are a quality sub.

So many of the new guys on this forum have never had a proper box or a proper electrical system.

Most are using mx numbers to describe their equipment.

I've been I a couple cars where just changing the visor position makes the system louder or turning the box a few degrees.

Sound deadening can both hurt and help a system depend on where it's used. Most of the time it will help.

Starting with quality equipment should go without saying afterwards get a custom box. Either build it yourself or have it built.
 
Good subs can withstand abuse. Hell I'm running 2k to a pair of dd506 6.5inch subs. They are only rated at like 250w each. I beat the crap out of them and they are still fine. I have bottomed them out, I have clipped them. They are just tough. Are they special? No but they are a quality sub.

So many of the new guys on this forum have never had a proper box or a proper electrical system.

Most are using mx numbers to describe their equipment.

I've been I a couple cars where just changing the visor position makes the system louder or turning the box a few degrees.

Sound deadening can both hurt and help a system depend on where it's used. Most of the time it will help.

Starting with quality equipment should go without saying afterwards get a custom box. Either build it yourself or have it built.
My amps have skeptical quality, I’ll give you that, but there’s nothing hugely wrong with my build. I just pushed too much power to a sub technically meant to be sealed. It happens. It was in 1 cube tuned to 30 hz. The other sub is an Audio Legion 10 I had in the closet. It doesn’t sound as good, but it’s louder and will do until I get something better.
C3873E8C-7014-455C-8177-295C4290D487.jpeg
83B16F60-AFE7-4BBF-8FC6-3A54A559DD34.jpeg
6B74444D-A06D-4780-AB50-EEA1544B0B41.jpeg
 
My amps have skeptical quality, I’ll give you that, but there’s nothing hugely wrong with my build. I just pushed too much power to a sub technically meant to be sealed. It happens. It was in 1 cube tuned to 30 hz. The other sub is an Audio Legion 10 I had in the closet. It doesn’t sound as good, but it’s louder and will do until I get something better.
View attachment 31043View attachment 31044View attachment 31045
That 8 looks like it has too much port which could easily cause unloading issues. The 10 looks fine and like you said was probably just overpowered.
 
My amps have skeptical quality, I’ll give you that, but there’s nothing hugely wrong with my build. I just pushed too much power to a sub technically meant to be sealed. It happens. It was in 1 cube tuned to 30 hz. The other sub is an Audio Legion 10 I had in the closet. It doesn’t sound as good, but it’s louder and will do until I get something better.
View attachment 31043View attachment 31044View attachment 31045
Didn’t you buy an Adire KH?
 
Didn’t you buy an Adire KH?
Not me. I do like adire products though. I haven’t decided yet for my end build. Probably the Dayton ultimax 8. 4 of them sealed in a low profile box. I bought one to test it and blew it. Lol. It’s ok. It sounded really good, I just pushed it too far. 4 of them will be more than satisfying.
 
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