Subwoofer Amp UPGRADE Advice really needed.

[Jaguar 10+ year member]

what are you using to power your 6.5's...ok, 4 ohm and 100w rms would be what i would recommend on that question.

Ok just got through re-tuning my system. I felt like the bass was getting ready to kick my head off so I'm glad it's over. As for the 6.5's they are actually 6''s. Diamond D363i's. Specs: Woofer Composition: Copolymer, Top Mount Depth: 2.5 Inches, Sensitivity: 91 dB, RMS Power Range : 60 Watts, Peak Power Handling: 120 Watts, Impedance: 4 Ohm, Frequency response: 54-20000 Hz, Diameter: 6 Inch, Design: 2 Way Tweeter Composition: Aluminum. I probably won't have to upgrade those.

 

One last question to nag you with. I have an option on my Sony CDX-GT7-700HD which allows me to change the Subwoofer phase from LPF Normal to Reverse.

What does this mean? Have no idea sorry. This is a pretty good stereo. Allows me to sets lows, mids, highs, adjust the Subwoofer db as well. Has something called DSO (Dynamic Soundstage Organizer), which allows you settings 0-1-2-3. Can't wait to get a new amp, and a properly ported 30hz+ mdf box... Thanks again.

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

Ok just got through re-tuning my system. I felt like the bass was getting ready to kick my head off so I'm glad it's over. As for the 6.5's they are actually 6''s. Diamond D363i's. Specs: Woofer Composition: Copolymer, Top Mount Depth: 2.5 Inches, Sensitivity: 91 dB, RMS Power Range : 60 Watts, Peak Power Handling: 120 Watts, Impedance: 4 Ohm, Frequency response: 54-20000 Hz, Diameter: 6 Inch, Design: 2 Way Tweeter Composition: Aluminum. I probably won't have to upgrade those. 

One last question to nag you with. I have an option on my Sony CDX-GT7-700HD which allows me to change the Subwoofer phase from LPF Normal to Reverse.

What does this mean? Have no idea sorry. This is a pretty good stereo. Allows me to sets lows, mids, highs, adjust the Subwoofer db as well. Has something called DSO (Dynamic Soundstage Organizer), which allows you settings 0-1-2-3. Can't wait to get a new amp, and a properly ported 30hz+ mdf box... Thanks again.

what music do you listen to?

I would keep the 6's.. You might raise the HPF to 100 if they sound like they are getting too much bass at the volume level you like. The Sub Phase inverts the line out signal polarity to compensate for time alignment/standing wave issues, adjust it to suit your ears. The DSO is an ambient sound processor..I have no experience with that, I would guess it may involve F/R, L/R time alignment, or simply High/Low equalization effects or the combination of the two...just set it to suit, but listen for distortion at higher volumes if used.

 

[Jaguar 10+ year member]

Definitely going to upgrade the 6''s to 100-120 watt's w/4ohm. Shame I paid $200.00 for the set I have now a little over a year ago. In due time, In due time.

what music do you listen to?

A little of everything. No heavy metal, No country.

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

Definitely going to upgrade the 6''s to 100-120 watt's w/4ohm. Shame I paid $200.00 for the set I have now a little over a year ago. In due time, In due time.

A little of everything. No heavy metal, No country.

If you decide to upgrade them later, look into component sets. The Diamonds you have now are a real nice coaxial. You really should try them out on a decent 75 to 100 watts per channel amp to let them work like they can. The one PPI posted earlier can be adjusted to match them, if you wanted the bet for deal for your $

As far as upgrading them, the 1st upgrade should be dampening material for your doors This sound deadening material is applied to the raw metal surfaces underneath each interior door panel , especially the metal door shell behind the speakers. This absorbs the reflection waves behind the speaker and reduces rattling. If you can reduce road noise and rear standing waves, you will hear more of what those Diamonds are capable of doing.. It would be a shame to discard them without actually giving them the proper treatments and opportunity to sing for you.

 

[Jaguar 10+ year member]

I have the option to change hi / mid / lo on my car stereo and my amp as well as lpf and hpf on my car stereo and my amp. My question is are the seperately supposed

to be utilized? For example the Amps settings, are they meant for the subwoofers only, and vice versa, the car stereo hi / mid / lo / lpf and hpf only for the car stereo

components within the vehicle (door speakers, tweeters). There is are option to boost the base on my subwoofers on both as well, but that's not what I'm asking. Thanks.

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

I have the option to change hi / mid / lo on my car stereo and my amp as well as lpf and hpf on my car stereo and my amp. My question is are the seperately supposed to be utilized? For example the Amps settings, are they meant for the subwoofers only, and vice versa, the car stereo hi / mid / lo / lpf and hpf only for the car stereo

components within the vehicle (door speakers, tweeters). There is are option to boost the base on my subwoofers on both as well, but that's not what I'm asking. Thanks.

The Hi/Mid/Low selects a range of frequencies which can be adjusted INSIDE the EQ3 option. EQ3 contains 7 factory eq presets, which can be user customized using the hi/mid/low selector in 1db steps, from -10 db to +10 db. You should use the Sony crossover. I recommended you to deactivate the crossover filter on the KW because in LPF mode, it automatically sums the L/R channels to mono operation...and you are using it in stereo operation.

As you advance in knowledge, you will be able to carefully select amplification equipment within your budget that will have the ability to exponentially increase your crossover tuning options...and provide you with clean power...refer to POST #127.

 

[Jaguar 10+ year member]

I don't really have a specific comment on any of the variable's mentioned except thanks. I was reading about mono block amps separation of channels, cross talk in stereo amps, diaphragms, preservation of audio information. I don't know why, but it's really interesting stuff. At a certain point I would imagine there would be a certain pin-pointing accuracy in understanding audio 'altogether' as a whole to surpass possibly even some longer time car audio enthusiasts/advanced car audio system owners who either have the systems picked out for them or never bother to study. Thanks for the advice @quackhead.

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

[quote name='Jaguar']I don't really have a specific comment on any of the variable's mentioned except thanks. I was reading about mono block amps separation of channels, cross talk in stereo amps, diaphragms, preservation of audio information. I don't know why, but it's really interesting stuff. At a certain point I would imagine there would be a certain pin-pointing accuracy in understanding audio 'altogether' as a whole to surpass possibly even some longer time car audio enthusiasts/advanced car audio system owners who either have the systems picked out for them or never bother to study. Thanks for the advice @quackhead.[/QUOTE]


You are welcome. If you think trying to please your ears in the confines of your car is fun, try pleasing the ears of a large crowd in a outdoor concert arena.

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

@Jaguar

good luck, my friend, in your quest.

 

[Jaguar 10+ year member]

At what point would a battery upgrade become a necessity. I'll be pushing an 1800Watt amp, I don't really plan on going above that point at this point. I suppose I would not be pushing the subs hard all the time, wouldn't have to (they will be slamming hard enough), but I'm also concerned about pushing the battery I do own too hard (get the specs on the voltage later), at what point does it become a danger. Sounds like an elementary question, but what would happen to the battery. Would it become drained much faster, would the car be in danger of shutting off, shorting out? I may not need to get a Yellowtop or Kinetic to power this system, perhaps just another battery with a higher voltage, not sure. What Is typically the wattage in car audio systems that it become necessary to upgrade the battery? I've heard 2,000watts? Getting another batter to power the amp and subs alone is not an option, not at this point. Thanks to anyone that can answer this.

 

[av83 10+ year member]

At what point would a battery upgrade become a necessity. I'll be pushing an 1800Watt amp, I don't really plan on going above that point at this point. I suppose I would not be pushing the subs hard all the time, wouldn't have to (they will be slamming hard enough), but I'm also concerned about pushing the battery I do own too hard (get the specs on the voltage later), at what point does it become a danger. Sounds like an elementary question, but what would happen to the battery. Would it become drained much faster, would the car be in danger of shutting off, shorting out? I may not need to get a Yellowtop or Kinetic to power this system, perhaps just another battery with a higher voltage, not sure. What Is typically the wattage in car audio systems that it become necessary to upgrade the battery? I've heard 2,000watts? Getting another batter to power the amp and subs alone is not an option, not at this point. Thanks to anyone that can answer this.

What amp is it?

 

[Jaguar 10+ year member]

[quote name='av83']What amp is it?[/QUOTE]
@av83 WoofersEtc.com - KAC-9105D - Kenwood Mono 1800 Watt Amplifier

 

[naughtyca 10+ year member]

yeah definitely expand past Kicker's unless that's exactly what you want. You can get a nice set of Sundowns for that price, some Skar VVX's, or maybe some Sound Solutions GCON's. Not positive but i think Skar has their 2 VVX 12's + a custom box for $429.99 deal still around.

this is still going on, I used to be a kicker fanatic I have run them all, cvx, cvr cvt l5 and L7, these subs are blown away by Skar VVX line and im running the BRZ1700.1d. I had a kid the other day that was running 2 15" CVR and when he heard the Skar, he was very amazed.

Another good sub is PSI, i have a friend who did a 148db on 2 12" psi platfform 1 with a 2k amp from crescendo

 

[av83 10+ year member]

At what point would a battery upgrade become a necessity. I'll be pushing an 1800Watt amp, I don't really plan on going above that point at this point. I suppose I would not be pushing the subs hard all the time, wouldn't have to (they will be slamming hard enough), but I'm also concerned about pushing the battery I do own too hard (get the specs on the voltage later), at what point does it become a danger. Sounds like an elementary question, but what would happen to the battery. Would it become drained much faster, would the car be in danger of shutting off, shorting out? I may not need to get a Yellowtop or Kinetic to power this system, perhaps just another battery with a higher voltage, not sure. What Is typically the wattage in car audio systems that it become necessary to upgrade the battery? I've heard 2,000watts? Getting another batter to power the amp and subs alone is not an option, not at this point. Thanks to anyone that can answer this.

Don't think of it as an 1800 watt amp, despite the label. It's a 900 watt amp, at best. When looking at/purchasing/dealing with any amp, the rms figure is the only one that really matters. You won't need another battery, though it wouldn't hurt. I would suggest just making sure you have a nice starting battery.

 

[Jaguar 10+ year member]

[quote name='av83']Don't think of it as an 1800 watt amp, despite the label. It's a 900 watt amp, at best. When looking at/purchasing/dealing with any amp, the rms figure is the only one that really matters. You won't need another battery, though it wouldn't hurt. I would suggest just making sure you have a nice starting battery.[/QUOTE]
Thanks @av83, since the question I has nothing to do with the thread topic, I've decided to ask it individually and create a NEW topic in the general section of the forum. Varying sides of input always helps, besides it might help someone else learn more.