Subs that hit that low end bass

The American Bass XD series subs work well in infinite baffles and have nearly identical specs to the Dayton for less cost. I installed 2 15's behind the seat of a 2000 Accord in an infinte baffle setup. This setup played well below 20Hz.
Yeah one of my buddies is gonna build me a slot ported box for 2 12s. I'll need two Dual 4 ohm 12s that can handle at least 2700watts rms between the two.

I think this setup will be louder than my four sealed 12s put together.

Any ideas on what can handle the Mmats D3500.1? I don't think hitting the low notes will be a problem since I'm going with the slot port.

 
You probably have the box with three 12's sealed because it FITS in your car.

Now 1.25 gross or 1.0 or 1.15 cubic feet per woofer does not make a lot of difference to a

woofer that wants 1 cube sealed optimally.

Porting even 2 12's will require a much bigger box than you are using. I suggested the Boston Acoustics PR's (passive radiator) setup because it gives many of the benefits of porting and you could still use the same box (just modified to add a PR per chamber).

I would agree that ID Q's, Dayton HO'sor Titanics, JL w6, FI Q's or SSD's, SSA ICON's and many others would sound good in the same sealed box you have now, better that the p3's. But none would get things to vibrat'in in that sized enclosure quite like the Boston PR setup IMO.

 
You probably have the box with three 12's sealed because it FITS in your car.Now 1.25 gross or 1.0 or 1.15 cubic feet per woofer does not make a lot of difference to a

woofer that wants 1 cube sealed optimally.

Porting even 2 12's will require a much bigger box than you are using. I suggested the Boston Acoustics PR's (passive radiator) setup because it gives many of the benefits of porting and you could still use the same box (just modified to add a PR per chamber).

I would agree that ID Q's, Dayton HO'sor Titanics, JL w6, FI Q's or SSD's, SSA ICON's and many others would sound good in the same sealed box you have now, better that the p3's. But none would get things to vibrat'in in that sized enclosure quite like the Boston PR setup IMO.
Hey man thanks, but take the guess work out and go to my first post. It'll tell you that I have 4 separate boxes and they are slightly larger than recommended at 1.33 cubed.

 
Hey I went there and it seem like all they are selling is home theatre stuff.
Where a product is being sold doesn't mean that's where it has to be used //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
I'm using a "car audio" subwoofer, a Fi.Q 15 in my home theatre, and am using a "home audio" subwoofer in my car. It is all dependent on the application and if that speaker is suited to said application. 95% of subwoofers can be used for either application as all it takes is enclosure designing.

 
Hey man thanks, but take the guess work out and go to my first post. It'll tell you that I have 4 separate boxes and they are slightly larger than recommended at 1.33 cubed.
The box size is not why the p3's ****, they just ****.

You could put any of the subs I mentioned in my post in the same enclosures

and get better sound. Now if you put a BA g5 12 and PR per enclosure, your

shits will be vibrating (inside your intestines). However I am making some

basic assumptions on box placement and hopefully a lack of cancellation.

You may even be able to get away with pg rsdc's in those boxes, they're cheap.

RE SE's used can be cheap too.

 
The box size is not why the p3's ****, they just ****.
You could put any of the subs I mentioned in my post in the same enclosures

and get better sound. Now if you put a BA g5 12 and PR per enclosure, your

shits will be vibrating (inside your intestines). However I am making some

basic assumptions on box placement and hopefully a lack of cancellation.

You may even be able to get away with pg rsdc's in those boxes, they're cheap.

RE SE's used can be cheap too.
I actually loled at this...and still am //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
 
What do yall think about the Planet Audio BB212s, they seem pretty good and I think two of those will do better than what I have in a slot port box.

 
someone gave you a LIST of subs earlier in the post... why the guessing game

Hey I have the list of Subs and am looking at the Alpine Type Xs. The Rest are either too much right now or won't work in a 2 sub application to produce a 1 0hm load. In other words, they don't have Dual 4 subs that can handle the Mmats amp. PA & Alpine do.

 
Hey I have the list of Subs and am looking at the Alpine Type Xs. The Rest are either too much right now or won't work in a 2 sub application to produce a 1 0hm load. In other words, they don't have Dual 4 subs that can handle the Mmats amp. PA & Alpine do.
so why not turn the gain down some? just because you think it will do all that power doesnt mean it has to.

 
I have played with ALOT of different subs and enclosures and beleive it

or not the best low end extension I have ever been able to produce was with

10" woofers in a ported application (four SSA Icons)

that daaamn set up was sickening with the drops..they went down right thru the floor

and wobbled the whole car

I am in the process of trying to replicate that set up in a different vehicle

 
so why not turn the gain down some? just because you think it will do all that power doesnt mean it has to.
I'll have the gain down. I just don't wanna run the risk of blowin up my subs. I know that with ported boxes you have to be careful. Someone on this site also told me that in a ported enclosure you should only power your subs about half their rating. So if they do 500RMS and 1000Peak. You should run about 5-600 watts at most to the subs in a ported box. In a sealed you could run about 750 daily. You get more sub movement in a ported box than you do in a sealed. So you run a greater risk of bottoming it out or blowing it.

Now that could be totally off, but I hope that answers your question.

 
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