Subs overpower my factory setup. Time to upgrade

[Kfra315 10+ year member]

So I have been running a 10" Type R ported for the past few months and this biggest problem I have with my setup is that I'm running all factory on the inside of the headunit and my speaker just cant keep up with the sub(I know its only a 10" Type R but the **** thing gets loud for me)

So that brings us to the present. I think I'm going to sell off my sub and amp and restart my car audio setup with the interiors first. I love my music but I refuse to put $1000's of dollars into my system being that where I live there is a **** good chance of it getting jacked even with a 2way alarm, 18 sirens, razorblades under the trunk lid, and a self destructing amp. So i'm looking to upgrade my interior and spend about 250-300 bucks doing it (Amp and components, no install gear). I dont strive for perfection just decent performance and also keep in mind that I will probably be moving towards a single 12" setup(possibly an FI Q) once I complete this project and I'm still not sure if I want to stay ported for trunk space purposes.

Let the suggestions begin. I'm looking for just all-around performance and I listen to mostly hip-hop, reggae, and r&b.

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[mavster 10+ year member]

what car?

 

[Kfra315 10+ year member]

what car?

Guess I forgot that minor detail huh:*******:

The car is an 02 Toyota Solara. According to crutchfield my door speakers are 6 3/4. so I guess I'm looking for 6-1/2 setup. I really dont think I need rear fill but I guess I can put some in if it doesnt hurt my pockets too bad but those are 6x9's in the back.

 

[Kfra315 10+ year member]

Also my car has factory tweets in the door but I dont know that depth or anything like that.

 

[Kfra315 10+ year member]

I'm looking at the the PG RSD's. From reading on the board they seem to be the Type R's of the component world based on price and performance. I looked on ebay and saw some on there for $90 shipped and I could also do authorized from onlinecarstereo for $129. Is this the best deal out there for components within my budget?

 

[tbasile1 10+ year member]

RSDs and a Profile Amp should run you a bit over 200 with shipping and wires

heres a good amp for a smaller budget:

http://www.millionbuy.com/prfap1000.html

 

[mapolley07 10+ year member]

I have the PG RSD's in my car, and for the $129 i paid for them from OCS, they are amazing.

Pink Floyd's Dark side of the moon album on my setup almost will cause a severe musicgasm, lol.

I do have rear fill too, they are lower-end PG's (octane-r coaxes) but they blend well with the front stage.

I run a profile amp as well, and they are very good and clean.

 

[Kfra315 10+ year member]

RSDs and a Profile Amp should run you a bit over 200 with shipping and wires
heres a good amp for a smaller budget:

http://www.millionbuy.com/prfap1000.html

I'm loving these prices. I really thought this would be more expensive.

I have the PG RSD's in my car, and for the $129 i paid for them from OCS, they are amazing.
Pink Floyd's Dark side of the moon album on my setup almost will cause a severe musicgasm, lol.

I do have rear fill too, they are lower-end PG's (octane-r coaxes) but they blend well with the front stage.

I run a profile amp as well, and they are very good and clean.

I want one of those. Is that messy and do your speakers get all sticky after?

After doing some more research this really seems like the best deal out there for my budget so right now its looking like this is where I'm gonna go with my setup. I do have a question though. Looking at the specs on that profile amp it looks like it would overpower the speakers at 160w RMS. Also how do you know what resistance you can run your comps at since they dont come like subs with DVC or SVC ohm configurations listed on them?

 

[tbasile1 10+ year member]

The amp prolly puts out a lil less than 160, but the RSDs can handle way more than 60, they are said to really shine and perform with like around 120 watts, that amp is a very good match and as long as you set your gains right, you'll have killer sound for a dam good price!

The comps are 4ohm if thats what your asking

 

[DejaWiz 5,000+ posts]

Kicker ZX450.2 $158.50

refurb from an authorized Kicker B-stock dealer. Should be able to provide 155-180w rms of clean power per channel.

Match that up to those RSd comps and you should have one sweet budget-minded front stage.

Have you tried adjusting the Subwoofer EQ on the HU or turning the gain down a bit so the Type R blends with the other speakers?

 

[Kfra315 10+ year member]

The amp prolly puts out a lil less than 160, but the RSDs can handle way more than 60, they are said to really shine and perform with like around 120 watts, that amp is a very good match and as long as you set your gains right, you'll have killer sound for a dam good price!
The comps are 4ohm if thats what your asking

Yea thats what I was asking and how did you know that they were 4ohm?

Kicker ZX450.2 $158.50
refurb from an authorized Kicker B-stock dealer. Should be able to provide 155-180w rms of clean power per channel.

Match that up to those RSd comps and you should have one sweet budget-minded front stage.

Have you tried adjusting the Subwoofer EQ on the HU or turning the gain down a bit so the Type R blends with the other speakers?

155-180 seems like it would be overkill for these components. Am I wrong to think that?

Also I've tried to get the Type R to blend but my front stage is just simply not loud enough. I dont have my sub hooked up right now and I find that I still need to turn my HU up to around 20-23(Out of 30 or 35 cant remember) to where I can really hear it for cds and 25+ for the radio. Plus whats the purpose of having the bass in the trunk if you have to turn it down so low.

 

[tbasile1 10+ year member]

Yea thats what I was asking and how did you know that they were 4ohm?

http://phoenixgold.com/2004/rsdspeakers.html

Most speakers are 4ohm, but there are some that are not, I know Infinitys come in 2ohm and a few others as well!

And as for the Kicker amp DejaWiz suggested, if can spend the extra money, the Kicker would be better than the Profile, but still for the price the Profile is a good amp, both would push the speakers nicely!

 

[DejaWiz 5,000+ posts]

1. 155-180 seems like it would be overkill for these components. Am I wrong to think that?

2. Plus whats the purpose of having the bass in the trunk if you have to turn it down so low.

1. Keep the gains set to deliver a clean 120-160w rms per channel to them and it'll be fine.

2. The fundamental point of having a subwoofer is to allow subbass frequencies to be reporoduced from a souce signal. Nothing more. Let me counter further with some questions for you to think about:

• If you want those lower frequencies to be reproduced "ghetto loud" and not blended with the rest of the audible frequency spectrum that your car audio system is capable of, then what's the point of getting new interior speakers since they're going to be overpowered at higher volumes?
  
• Are you just wanting to try to impress your stop light neighbors by letting them know you've got annoyingly loud bass?
  
• Why just hear your music when you can truly listen to it?

 

[Kfra315 10+ year member]

Thanks for all the help and answering all my question guys. This forum is da shit whenever people actually help you out.

Next project is getting my Type R and amp sold.

Anybody interested?

The Type R is actually brand new and comes with a Best Buy warranty with 3 years and about 10 1/2 months left. The last one I had blew so I got a new one from BB and have yet to open the box. (Driving around all factory sucks)

The amp is an Ultimate T3 that puts out 500w@4ohms and 900w@2ohms. I read of people running them at 1 ohm and getting output beyond 1000w but the amp isnt rated stable at 1 ohm. Its a nice looking amp that puts out a lot of power. Ultimate is a Canadian car audio company that puts out good products based on my experience and those from others I've found on the net.

Keep an eye in the classifieds for these if you're interested. I'll have some pics and stuff up on there.

 

[Kfra315 10+ year member]

1. Keep the gains set to deliver a clean 120-160w rms per channel to them and it'll be fine.
2. The fundamental point of having a subwoofer is to allow subbass frequencies to be reporoduced from a souce signal. Nothing more. Let me counter further with some questions for you to think about:

• If you want those lower frequencies to be reproduced "ghetto loud" and not blended with the rest of the audible frequency spectrum that your car audio system is capable of, then what's the point of getting new interior speakers since they're going to be overpowered at higher volumes?
  
• Are you just wanting to try to impress your stop light neighbors by letting them know you've got annoyingly loud bass?
  
• Why just hear your music when you can truly listen to it?
  

Normally these questions would usually piss me off but I can see that you definitely seem to COMPLETELY misunderstand me.

1. I dont need my car to be "ghetto loud" (whatever that is) but the purpose of me installing a sub in my trunk was to add the thump that I wanted to hear and "listen" to. I think its obvious I'm not trying to be the loudest guy on the block being that my system consist of a TYPE R 10 on about 900w(now that will make ears bleed huh????).

2. I DO NOT blast my music at red lights because a) It is pretty **** annoying and flat out makes me full dumb and b) I dont feel like I need to paint a bullseye on my car for the next theft victim. The majority of my bumping is done on the highway where only I get to enjoy my beat.

What did you not understand about my interior speaker just simply being too weak? Pretty simple concept. I do appreciate all the advice you've given me in the thread but your second point about my "stop light neighbors" really pissed me off.