subs canceling each other out?

If you were going to be doing meca and had to be efficient your best bet would be to sell and get something different. If you just want something to power the subs and dont care about current draw, the rf t2000 will work fine. feel free to PM me or post on here and I can help ya out. I'm super tired and have to hit the sack.

 
Thanks for your help and yeah i want to compete and have a 80a fuse 18" from amp. I will look for something else but this will have to work for now.

 
If I fire 3 10s front and 2 back with ports back will they cancel each other out? Its in the trunk of a 2000 alero and I was just wondering if this was practical or if they would cancel each other out?
2dr or 4dr alero?

If 4-door, try 2-12. Subs on passenger side, port drivers, both firing into the cabin. ~4cuft, the cabin will like to peak ~56hz.

I did 151+ w/ 2 DD2510's in a build for a co-workers Alero, and that was without sealing the trunk off.

 
2dr or 4dr alero?
If 4-door, try 2-12. Subs on passenger side, port drivers, both firing into the cabin. ~4cuft, the cabin will like to peak ~56hz.

I did 151+ w/ 2 DD2510's in a build for a co-workers Alero, and that was without sealing the trunk off.
I have been trying to find someone that has used a 4dr alero! I will be using 1 15" trunkwall, cabin peaks at ~51hz. if I can get the funds up before they are gone I will grab a 15" fi btl n3. As for sub and port placing thanks I didnt want to have to do a bunch of rebuilding to find the optimal setup. If I tune that high though as a daily I will lose all of my low end can I change ports has anyone ever done that?

 
Its about heating up the fuse. You will be fine burping a 60 on that RF. I burp a 70 on my ZX2500. I can also Park and pound a 70 most of the time, more good then popped. Cheap generic fuses are your freind. Mini anl and AGU fuses. You can also run them in line. 2 35 amps. MMATS are very good with the fuse format though. There is a 4K running 60s around here

 
Idk, I toated a 125a with the rf t2000 with a friend in his car. It had great electrical too. I was running it hard... but still. We had 3 batteries in that car, a 250amp alternator, all kicker 1/0 all around and for the big 3. It had a big Shuriken 1800 battery up front too, in addition to the 3 kinetik 2000's.'

I did'nt really look his electrical over, but he knows his stuff it should have all been perfect, the older rockfords just really pull the juice. Unless there is a trick to running smaller fuses. or crap fuses that don't actually blow when they should...

 
The new t2500 amps r only 65% efficient at one ohm so the older ones r alittle worse i would assume. But even at 65% @13.8v thats 223a for 2000w and 279a at 2500w so im gonna look for another to compete with, since its all about being as efficient as possible.

 
If you decide to sell the t2000 let me know, I may be interested in it. Need a amp for my new project that I will be starting soon

 

---------- Post added at 11:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:15 PM ----------

 

If you are looking for an efficient amp, I have a mmats amp I would trade as well. It's going to be extra soon, need more POWER!!! its a never ending cycle

 
the cheap crappy fuses are your friends. mainly for the fact that they will take more than what they say they will. especially for short periods of time. for burps you only need the fuse to hold out 3 seconds. last season i was burping my mmats 4000.1 wired at .5 on 2 40 amp fuses. (couldnt quite get the full potential out of it though)

and you dont always need to draw every last watt out of an amp to compete. everything depends on the setup though.

 
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