subs canceling each other out?

I just decided to compete up till now I have only had very limited experience with car audio pretty much I can hook up an amp and subs but in the last month i have done over 100 hours of research so i am learninf alot quick

 


^^^

this is how you get a trunk LOUD. I believe this is an old video and he runs a smaller flared round port these days, but you get the idea. Pair of 10's, perhaps pair of 12's, or a single 15. Another guy I know does right around 150 with a single 15 in a similar style setup.... does that at 42hz and it actually sounds pretty decent. 18's just don't work in a trunk

 
ok so after some youtube I would love to do this with 2 12s but I was wanting to compete in the ameteur division and foam or caulks are not permitted.

 
well after a couple minutes to think it over I will competing in the street class so now the fun begins, I know what I want and its time to build well plan to build. I just pulled my seats and all out to deaden my car and was thinking if this was the best setup for me and posted this thread to get opinions and now again it has changed but this is definitely what I will be building so I need 2 good 12s for this type of setup. Again I will be using a 70 amp fuse 18" from the amp from what I gather thats around 2500 watts.

 
Two 12's seems to be your best bet but I got tired of seeing the same ole 2 sub setup so I am going with three 8's subs back port threw the rear deck. Let us know which way u go and how it turns out..

 
A fuse doesn't blow based on wattage, but amperage. And different amplifiers draw different amounts of amperage to make the same power (all about efficiency). My MMATS amp (considered VERY efficient) draws up to 100amps to make 1600rms/3200ish peak. And thats in a car with 2 $1000 batteries and good 1/0 gauge wire and a H.O alternator.

Again fusing isn't going to determine your power. Hifonics BRZ1200 uses 2 70amp fuses (140 amps) to output 1200 watts. Don't worry about fuses until you have your amps so you know what to put on it. More important is running some good 1/0 gauge wire.

 
in meca the things people can do with small fuses is crazy. one of the crx's around here is burping a 150.4 consistently with only a 3 amp fuse, (granted these are not the normal 3 amp fuses) but they are stamped 3 amp in the metal and are legal. to really get loud in meca its actually more about efficiency than it is brute force, as i found out the hard way. it takes a lot of tuning and testing, building multiple enclosures to figure out the proper layout for the car, and there really is no right or wrong way to do things. (of course some ways can be easier than others).

 
I will be using a rf t2000bd1, I have a power bastards 220a alt on the way, 2 batcap 2000, a 1/0 rf wiring kit, and will be doing my 1/0 big 3 in the next couple days. I have already used 100sf of deadening material and need to get more to do the head liner and finish that up but its coming along slowly but surley.

 
Is that the only amp you can get? RF T series amps aren't the most efficient, they draw huge amounts of amperage. If you had a choice maybe you could find a more efficient amp in the classified section. There are amps that draw a lot less power to create the same wattage as a RF t2000.

 
Well that ***** the amp is on its way so thats what im using for now. I should have asked before i bought so how bad are they? Should I try to sell it and get another one? This is what happens when you dont do your homework! Earmuffs FK,SHT,DAM ok Im done. Well I may have a rf 2000 for sale soon if anyone is looking.

 
Basically a MMATS amp or any of the other more efficient amps will pull half or a little more than half the amperage of the rf t2000. Basically my MMATS amp at 2000 watts is pulling around 90-100 amps (100 amp fuse on it blows if it were to try and use more). My rf t1500 used a 250amp fuse. Can't remember the exact fusing for the t2000. If you are going for a setup that has to be super efficient that is not the amp that you want.

The rf t2000 is going to need at least a 250amp fuse on the power line. a 60amp would be toast a very low wattage output. Not to mention the t2000 was one of there older series amps, which were even less efficient than the current T series amps (which are not efficient anyways!) When I had my rockford t2500-bdcp, which was there new model which is alot more efficient than the older t2000, I had 3 kinetic 1800's, a 200 amp alternator and all Stinger high end 1/0 gauge and I still was getting a lot of voltage drop (3+ volts when at moderate to high volumes) we figured at the shop that it had to be pulling in excess of 350 amps peak 200+ continual when I was listening. Rockfords Power series amplifiers are absolute Amperage hogs. They take all you can give it and more. Given it may work with your set up (will need a 250 amp fuse not a 60) but even with that set up I think you would still be seeing some serious voltage drop and headlight dimming.

If you don't care about efficiency and have the electrical to back it up, the amp will work fine for you. Didn't know if you were competing somewhere where there was a limit on the max fuse size you could have, if so this is most certainly not the amp you would want (or any of rf power series). But don't get me wrong they are decent amps, they just require tons of power.

 
Yeah I just checked Rockfords forum and many people state the t2500 pulls in excess of 277amps at lower wattage and can go over 325 to do 3krms. and the t2000 seems to do about 250+/- a little. Haven't spent much time researching but that seems about right (I have tons of experience running RF amps)

It will be a decent amp, you may want to get something else if you were looking for something that didn't draw huge amounts of current. The guy I worked with used to test bench a lot of the amps we sold to see what kind of power they were pulling. I can bounce some questions off him if you want me to.

 
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