Sub Upgrade with JL 500/1

[IronCityGuy 10+ year member]

Thanks for taking part in my first post. *He broke his cherry* I'll try not to leave this bleak and fill you in totally. I consider myself an above average installer. I'm not too technical and haven't been around alot of systems so I would like advice on what would sound good. I listen to alot of different music so I guess I'm after sound quality. I have Rage in the player now. So please when you recommend products state the full product name. I have no clue what 10" xxx or 5G DD's are. I will probable need someone to design a box for the finished product. All input is appriciated. And don't laugh at my current subs and amp, they are 10 years old and still bump.... a little.

The facts:

Car: 2000 Intrepid 4 Door

Head Unit: Pioneer Premier DEH-P8MP

Front Door: Alpine 6 1/2 co-ax Type S

Back Deck: Alpine 6X9 3-way co-ax Type s

Subs: (2) 12" Oz (from 1995 not sure what kind)

Amp: Audio Art 200.2 (from 1994)

Battery: Optima Yellow Top

Cross over: U.S. Amp (not sure what kind)

So first thing was to improve highs and mids. These Alpines are clear enough I think. Cost around $150 for all four. They are running off the head unit. Molex plugs in the doors cut me short of running new wire. Now I have about $1000 to upgrade the lows. I'm set on running the JL Audio 500/1 amp. That will prolly tap me out $450 new from local car audio store(I want the JL warrenty). I figure wood and plexiglass for the box will run $150. So with $400 what can I get for subs?

At first glance I thought of two 12's again but I guess my options of one 12, two 12's, one 10, two 10's or three 10's are possible. Here are the options I scouted out. Let me know yours.

(2) 12" DVC JL 12W3 V2 D2's 2 ohm to run @ 2 ohm load

(2) 12" DVC Apine Type R's 2 ohm to run @ 2 ohm load

(3) 10" DVC Apine Type R's 4 ohm to run @ 2.67 ohm load

one 10" JL 10w7 3 ohm to run @ 3 ohm (is that correct?, are these DVC?) $500

one 10" JL 10w6 4 ohm to run @ 4 ohm

one 10" DVC Diamond Audio D910D2 2 ohm to run @ 2 ohm

I know I'm partial to JL and Alpine. Throw other options at me.

Click to read more...

 

[MisterGrubbs 5,000+ posts]

JL 12w6v2 ported

Be my choice

Those Diamonds are very nice subs though

 

[bri487 5,000+ posts]

i would look into the treo tsi 12". a 500/1 should do a single tsi just fine.

 

[SAG3 5,000+ posts]

only the 13W7 is a DVC the others are all SVC

 

[Prowler573 5,000+ posts]

only the 13W7 is a DVC the others are all SVC

Dude ~ what are you smoking?

That is completely false.

From JL's product page:

" Please note that the W6v2 is a dual voice coil driver. BOTH voice coils must be connected to the amplifier (in series or parallel) for the speaker to operate properly"

IronCityGuy: You can't run a single Dual 2 Ohm Diamond D9 @ 2 Ohms. A lone Dual 2 sub can do 4 Ohms or 1 Ohm.

 

[MisterGrubbs 5,000+ posts]

Amen

The 12w6v2 that should be in the mail shortly is DVC 4, all 12w6v2's are, to my knowledge

 

[bonesninja 5,000+ posts]

only the 13W7 is a DVC the others are all SVC

i think he means when it comes to dub7 only the 13 is dvc.

 

[Prowler573 5,000+ posts]

Amen
The 12w6v2 that should be in the mail shortly is DVC 4, all 12w6v2's are, to my knowledge

According to the product page I just read you'd be right. It mentioned parallel wiring to 2 Ohms or series wirig to 8 - no other options.

 

[Prowler573 5,000+ posts]

i think he means when it comes to dub7 only the 13 is dvc.

Hmm. Okay - that does make more sense.

Sorry, SAG - my bad, dude //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[MisterGrubbs 5,000+ posts]

10-4 on the 13w7 update

Still, Go 12w6v2 man, awesome subs

 

[Jdizzle 10+ year member]

w6 ported or d9 ported FTW

 

[bri487 5,000+ posts]

w6 ported or d9 ported FTW

the d9 will want 1000+ watts.

 

[IronCityGuy 10+ year member]

Thanks.

I will only get 500 rms and 1000 peak so the power handeling of the sub(s) can't be too extreme. I was also looking at two 10" Alpine X's or two 10" Orion H2's but wouldn't be able to push them properly.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif

Remember that I only have the 6.5's and 6X9's hooked up to the Mosfet internal 27 rms amp so I don't want to smother them. I don't have to use the amp to it's max. Just if I go bigger down the road I want an amp that could push a sub. Example: getting another JL 500/1 and running each amp to a single sub.

I like the JL 12W6 idea because I could just get another amp and sub of each and be bumpin. That Is when I get better front stage.

Heres where my inexpierience comes in:

One question about the JL 12W6 in a ported box. Ported is for loudness or sound pressure right? I think I'm after SQ. I did plan to do some modification to the rear deck. The back end of the Intrepid is built like a tank. I was going to cut and remove some of the deck to allow the bass to flow better into the car. So with SQ in mind, is ported or sealed the way to go?

 

[MisterGrubbs 5,000+ posts]

It's either or man

If someoen who knows WTF they're doing builds you a ported box, the SQ will be just fine. If some half-witted jackass buidls it, yes it will be a bit more sloppy than a sealed. A properly build ported box will increase your output and still sound good, point blank.

I still say 12w6v2 is the way to go.

The H2s are power hungry as hell, the TDX/D9 from Diamond do need around 1kw, and the X's needs anywhere froom 800-1200 rms/sub

JL is overall your best bet man.

 

[johnson 10+ year member]

A sheet of MDF is only $25. You planning on using 6 sheets?