Sub/amp/box

no i don't.
I misread the PM i got he was only offering me one SKAR vvx sub. So i guess if the HD3 and the PPI are the best choice i will go with them. But they are better then type r's? the driver looks alot smaller. Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. What kind of box should i get for the hd3's? Last question what size power wire will i need to run i think my kit is only a 2gauge?

 
1200 watt rms how is that possible for a sub that only cost $140, is this like audiobauhn type stuff or good quality?
the Soundqubeds are built a lot better. 3 inch voice coils compared to the type R's 2.5 inch voice coils meaning it'll handle a lot more then 1.2k with ease. Paper cone which is pretty much the best cone material on the market, and the magnets are a lot beefier then the type Rs. Pictures on the site doesnt do it justice, its a lot bigger the then the type R in real life. All in all, you can expect to get a lot louder then the type R in a proper enclosure and sound decent while your at it. The amp its a decent amp, will have some headroom for you when impedance rise kicks in There are better amp choices but honestly they cost almost your entire budget but will provide globs of clean power well over their rated rms. Dont think about buying some premade mass manufactured box, any sub will sound like shiet in those.

Hell, if you want to take a step up, go for the hdc3s they'll do some destruction on your car.

Type Rs are good subs but there are better, much louder alternatives in the 1000 rms range. heck even some 600 rms sundowns will mop the floor with the type Rs.

subwoofer choices

sundown SA 12 - (handles almost double rms) sundown around here is nicknamed the king of research and development poke around a bit more and you'll know why.

american bass XFL 12s - are beefy too take a look at how much better built they are compared to mainstream subs take a look yourself ==>http://www.caraudio.com/forums/subwoofer-classifieds/600060-american-bass-xfl-12-d4.html pure magnet slugs and cast iron basket compared to the bunch of plastic covered baskets mainstream brands use to hide their puny weak motors.

C2 audio threatcon 2- personally ran one in 1100 rms and it took it like a champ.

FI SSD - another reputable brand geared for lows.

You go into a few competitions and you'll see no one using JLs, Orions, Pioneers, Kickers or Type Rs. All Digital Designs, Incriminator audio, DC audio, Sundown and a few others not named yet in this thread.

As for wire, get 0 gauge Ofc copper if your budget allows it... but i guess copper clad would work too if your really tight on cash. Sky high, knukonceptz are the go to brands for those.

 
the Soundqubeds are built a lot better. 3 inch voice coils compared to the type R's 2.5 inch voice coils meaning it'll handle a lot more then 1.2k with ease. Paper cone which is pretty much the best cone material on the market, and the magnets are a lot beefier then the type Rs. Pictures on the site doesnt do it justice, its a lot bigger the then the type R in real life. All in all, you can expect to get a lot louder then the type R in a proper enclosure and sound decent while your at it. The amp its a decent amp, will have some headroom for you when impedance rise kicks in There are better amp choices but honestly they cost almost your entire budget but will provide globs of clean power well over their rated rms. Dont think about buying some premade mass manufactured box, any sub will sound like shiet in those.
Hell, if you want to take a step up, go for the hdc3s they'll do some destruction on your car.

Type Rs are good subs but there are better, much louder alternatives in the 1000 rms range. heck even some 600 rms sundowns will mop the floor with the type Rs.

subwoofer choices

sundown SA 12 - (handles almost double rms) sundown around here is nicknamed the king of research and development poke around a bit more and you'll know why.

american bass XFL 12s - are beefy too take a look at how much better built they are compared to mainstream subs take a look yourself ==>http://www.caraudio.com/forums/subwoofer-classifieds/600060-american-bass-xfl-12-d4.html pure magnet slugs and cast iron basket compared to the bunch of plastic covered baskets mainstream brands use to hide their puny weak motors.

C2 audio threatcon 2- personally ran one in 1100 rms and it took it like a champ.

FI SSD - another reputable brand geared for lows.

You go into a few competitions and you'll see no one using JLs, Orions, Pioneers, Kickers or Type Rs. All Digital Designs, Incriminator audio, DC audio, Sundown and a few others not named yet in this thread.

As for wire, get 0 gauge Ofc copper if your budget allows it... but i guess copper clad would work too if your really tight on cash. Sky high, knukonceptz are the go to brands for those.
Well i aappreciate your time and i think this will be the route i take 2 HS3 and the ppi amp. Might as well ask you the last step i have a 2002 audi A4 1.8t sedan what box should i go with? I'm looking for equal spl and sq so should i go sealed? or labrynth(sp) ported. Also a concern on the electrical needs on my car because this is going to push the full 2000watts, since the subs are 1200rms a piece. I was looking for a system that would just be as loud as my old type r's. I never thought i would say this but is this going to be to much for a daily driver? Could i just go one with a larger box and smaller amp and cut cost and still have a loud system? (i'm a college student so i "should" be as frugal as possible)

 
Well i aappreciate your time and i think this will be the route i take 2 HS3 and the ppi amp. Might as well ask you the last step i have a 2002 audi A4 1.8t sedan what box should i go with? I'm looking for equal spl and sq so should i go sealed? or labrynth(sp) ported. Also a concern on the electrical needs on my car because this is going to push the full 2000watts, since the subs are 1200rms a piece. I was looking for a system that would just be as loud as my old type r's. I never thought i would say this but is this going to be to much for a daily driver? Could i just go one with a larger box and smaller amp and cut cost and still have a loud system? (i'm a college student so i "should" be as frugal as possible)
my bad, i thought you only wanted 1 sub. That ppi amp aint gonna cut it if you want to run two hds300s. You should go for a single 15 hds300 or heck, even the HDC3 in a ported box instead so you dont have to stress too much on electricals. a lot more cone area and a lot less power needed to get loud along with adequate space for a proper ported enclosure. Dont buy some box off of ebay or some wack job shop that has no idea how to design a proper ported enclosure. YES go ported.

Electrical upgrades - would need the big 3 upgrade done. A decent AGM battery under the hood and depending on your stock alternator size, if its under 80amps you might need a rebuilt higher amperage alternator.

 
my bad, i thought you only wanted 1 sub. That ppi amp aint gonna cut it if you want to run two hds300s. You should go for a single 15 hds300 or heck, even the HDC3 in a ported box instead so you dont have to stress too much on electricals. a lot more cone area and a lot less power needed to get loud along with adequate space for a proper ported enclosure. Dont buy some box off of ebay or some wack job shop that has no idea how to design a proper ported enclosure.
I wanted two 12 because i thought it would hit harder then just one. Do you have any suggestions on two 12" subs around 1200rms, otherwise i will just go with one of those hs3's and call it a day my head hurts trying to figure out what deal is the best. There is 2 12" w3 in a factory made ported box for 250 on craigslist. should i just go with that? sorry i know i'm a huge pain in the ***.

 
I wanted two 12 because i thought it would hit harder then just one. Do you have any suggestions on two 12" subs around 1200rms, otherwise i will just go with one of those hs3's and call it a day my head hurts trying to figure out what deal is the best. There is 2 12" w3 in a factory made ported box for 250 on craigslist. should i just go with that? sorry i know i'm a huge pain in the ***.
factory box is horrible just like all other cheap chinese made boxes. Those W3s will sound good, but not get loud as type Rs. I'd say go with a single 15. Just as loud and good sounding without shelling out cash for two drivers. The sub will face up and port faced to the rear.

 
Stay away from prefab enclosures. Like all others have said, get a custom enclosure built to your needs/ sub specs. It will make a world of difference. For example, if you get a nice pair of subs and a 1200w amp and stick 'em in a magnabox its like throwing a wooden block under the gas pedal of a 'vette. Restrictive. Also, most higher powered setups will blow apart a prefab, have done it myself numerous times...

If anything get a QBOMB12vl, its an exact copy of a super bass probox, and the only prefab I would EVER recommend.

 
factory box is horrible just like all other cheap chinese made boxes. Those W3s will sound good, but not get loud as type Rs. I'd say go with a single 15. Just as loud and good sounding without shelling out cash for two drivers. The sub will face up and port faced to the rear.
Hopefully I'm getting 2 12 inch new model type rs dual 4 wired to one ohm for 220 build a box then get that picture amp. Sound good? Only reason I won't go 15 is I need a little trunk space and I listen to metal

 
Hopefully I'm getting 2 12 inch new model type rs dual 4 wired to one ohm for 220 build a box then get that picture amp. Sound good? Only reason I won't go 15 is I need a little trunk space and I listen to metal
Type of music has nothing to do with how big of a sub you should get. Get the right box made and you can listen to metal with an 18 if you wanted to

 
Type of music has nothing to do with how big of a sub you should get. Get the right box made and you can listen to metal with an 18 if you wanted to
Well like i said before im open to all suggestions. What is the best sub(s) box amp for equal spl and sq. and i'm open to used stuff to search on craigslist. At this point in time though i ask myself what is the difference if i get one hs3 or two type r's with the right box it will all sound about the same. So shouldn't i just go with the least amount of money to spend? once again i thank you all for commenting and indulging my ignorance. I'm learning as fast as i can

 
Well like i said before im open to all suggestions. What is the best sub(s) box amp for equal spl and sq. and i'm open to used stuff to search on craigslist. At this point in time though i ask myself what is the difference if i get one hs3 or two type r's with the right box it will all sound about the same. So shouldn't i just go with the least amount of money to spend? once again i thank you all for commenting and indulging my ignorance. I'm learning as fast as i can
If you wanna go the as cheap as possible then get 1 sub and a decent amp. I would get a SoundQubed HDS315 and a PPI or Hifonics amp. Soundqubed subs are already pretty cheap. Then look on the classifieds on this forum for an amp that about 1200-1600 rms. Make sure you have a box built or build one yourself, otherwise the sub won't shine like it really can. You might be disappointed if you go with a prefab box.

 
If you wanna go the as cheap as possible then get 1 sub and a decent amp. I would get a SoundQubed HDS315 and a PPI or Hifonics amp. Soundqubed subs are already pretty cheap. Then look on the classifieds on this forum for an amp that about 1200-1600 rms. Make sure you have a box built or build one yourself, otherwise the sub won't shine like it really can. You might be disappointed if you go with a prefab box.
Ya that is what was suggested earlier in the post, if i can't get these two type r's for 220 shipped that will be for sure the route I take. And regaurdless i plan on building a box, now that everyone has made it clear how bad prefab boxes are. I have been checking out the pre made plans on here and there is alot to choose from which is good.

 
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