SSD 15" not playing?

[*Ace* 10+ year member]

I have a 15" SSD hooked up to a nine.2x at 4 ohms. I just hooked it up today and it played fine for about an hour or so but then it just cut out and now my power light on my amp won't even light up. I checked the fuse under the hood and it's good. I then checked the fuses on the amp and they were good. Can you blow your amp from having the gain too high? I had it about halfway. i realize this probably wasn't a good idea without using a dmm but i couldn't detect distortion at all while bumping. i'm going to check the ground and remote lead tomorrow. what do you think could cause this?

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[*Ace* 10+ year member]

Nobody? I checked the remote turn-on wire and everything seemed fine. I also opened up the amp but didn't notice anything that seemed abnormal. No scorching marks or burnt out pieces or anything. Do you think it could be the ground?

I used this amp previously for my components and never had a problem?

 

[bball09124 10+ year member]

Well it's not playing because the amp isn't on. That could be because A. it's blown B. low voltage or C. no signal from remote turn-on.

It may have blown if you had a bad ground and you were getting some serious voltage drop. Pick up a DMM from Walmart and see the voltage you are getting at the amp and then go from there. If you're voltage is good, you can put a jumper in from the 12V+ to the remote turn-on, if the amp comes on then the problems lies with your remote turn-on wire.

 

[*Ace* 10+ year member]

Well it's not playing because the amp isn't on. That could be because A. it's blown B. low voltage or C. no signal from remote turn-on.
It may have blown if you had a bad ground and you were getting some serious voltage drop. Pick up a DMM from Walmart and see the voltage you are getting at the amp and then go from there. If you're voltage is good, you can put a jumper in from the 12V+ to the remote turn-on, if the amp comes on then the problems lies with your remote turn-on wire.

Would the inside of the amp be noticeably burnt if blown? Also, where do I measure the voltage at the amp? Where the power cable connects at? And one last thing, what is a "jumper"? Sorry for the ignorance, but I'm not to familiar with that. Thanks a bunch

 

[*Ace* 10+ year member]

anyone? I just need to know what to use as a jumper?

 

[chardy85 10+ year member]

When he says jumper he just means a small piece of wire.

When you hook up the remote to the power wire then it will have a constant signal from the battery. If it works then you know the remote wire is the problem.

Just be sure to unhook the jumper because if you leave it hooked up you will be draining your battery.

 

[*Ace* 10+ year member]

I tried putting a dmm up the the power input to read the voltage but nothing?? Will it still register a voltage even though the amp isnt on?

 

[*Ace* 10+ year member]

Ok I got a piece of wire and screwed it in the remote turn on connector, and then placed the other bare end onto the power wire itself while it was also screwed in with everything on but the amp still didnt turn on. does this mean it's fried?

i opened the amp earlier and cannot see any scortch marks or anything. no smell, nothing? what do you guys think it is?

 

[Shinju 10+ year member]

Your amplifier is done, Just because you do not smell or see anything burnt doesnt mean there is not a hidden issue.

Try a different amplifier and this time adjust your gains accordingly before bumping //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[SonyXlpod 10+ year member]

give them both to me

 

[chardy85 10+ year member]

It is probably F'd up.

Either way you should still try to see if you get voltage at the power input. Take the Digital mulitmeter. Set it on 12V..."it may say 20V" DC

Take the red probe and put it on the power input, then take the black probe and put it on a common ground or the ground at the amp. It should read around 12+ volts with the car off.

I have had a problem with a fuse before where it looked fine but the solder or something in the inside was loose.....

If the amp is toast just call eD and get an RMA # or get one from there site. Ship it back to them and they will most likely send a new one out to you pretty fast.

 

[ThatChevyGuy 5,000+ posts]

What size is your power wire fuse and what is the amperage of fusing on the amp?

Try replacing the fuse on the power wire, i have had a fuse blow and it looked fine to the ***** eye, if that doesnt work, yeah, amp is done.

 

[chardy85 10+ year member]

What size is your power wire fuse and what is the amperage of fusing on the amp?
Try replacing the fuse on the power wire, i have had a fuse blow and it looked fine to the ***** eye, if that doesnt work, yeah, amp is done.

lol, is there an echo in here?

 

[*Ace* 10+ year member]

It is probably F'd up.
Either way you should still try to see if you get voltage at the power input. Take the Digital mulitmeter. Set it on 12V..."it may say 20V" DC

Take the red probe and put it on the power input, then take the black probe and put it on a common ground or the ground at the amp. It should read around 12+ volts with the car off.

I have had a problem with a fuse before where it looked fine but the solder or something in the inside was loose.....

If the amp is toast just call eD and get an RMA # or get one from there site. Ship it back to them and they will most likely send a new one out to you pretty fast.

Ok, I took out my DMM and put the red probe on the power input and then the black probe on the ground input. It read .205V and then just kept rising by .001 increments? I then did the same with the remote lead, with the car on, and got similar results?

I thought maybe I was doing it wrong or had the settings wrong so I tested a 1.5V duracell "AA" battery and it read 1.6V so I'm guessing I was doing it right? What do you think?

 

[pre98zetec 10+ year member]

have you checked your ground? without a ground it would read 0v when you put the dmm on it.