SQL setup, suggestions?

[bborey 10+ year member]

Let me rephrase that. Can the IDQ12 effectively keep up? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

i wouldnt doubt it, everything ive heard about ID has been good. good product and is meant for quality, im sure it'll keep up just fine.

 

[misfit138 5,000+ posts]

Let me rephrase that. Can the IDQ12 effectively keep up? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I don't see why it wouldn't...

 

[ImmortalFreak 10+ year member]

That leaves me with the option of 1 IDQ12v3 or 2 ID10v3's. Leaning towards 10's, what do youguys think?

Side question: Can an Arc Audio FD 600.1 power the 2 10's okay?

 

[misfit138 5,000+ posts]

two 10"s > one 12"

The Arc Audio amp will do fine...

 

[ImmortalFreak 10+ year member]

Roger.. Thanks bro. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[misfit138 5,000+ posts]

No problem.

You've chosen some pretty nice subs and a very good amp. If I were you, I'd start thinking about upgrading the front stage as well...

 

[ImmortalFreak 10+ year member]

Here's a brief run through:

The plan is to purchase an ID10D4v3 and some 5 1/4 components tomorrow afternoon. Both of which I will power on my shitty Z-Edition 400.4. I will bridge 2 channels for the sub and the other 2 will go to the front speakers as I wait for money to get another amp.

Once I get some more money I will then purchase the Arc Audio FD 600.1, which will effectively push 1 ID10D4v3 at 336W RMS, correct? Then when I pickup another ID10D4v3 and wire the subs in a series. This is accurate so far, right?

And then finally I can pickup on an Arc Audio FD 2100, which will power my 5 1/4 components (which I still have not picked, I'm open to suggestions. ;p On about $130 budget.. Can go a bit higher if necessary, but would prefer not to) in the front.

Also, I need to get some wiring, I can start that now actually. And that's where it gets complicated. =/ I'll be looking at guides all day tomorrow, haha.

If all goes well this will be done within a month. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[ImmortalFreak 10+ year member]

Oh, and as for components, my ears are quite sensitive to high-pitched sound, so I need something with ear-bleeding prevention, if you will. ;p Any opinions on the ARC Audio KS 5006 components?

 

[Plutoman 10+ year member]

Not sure on the components - but as for the subs, a dual 4 ohm sub will wire down to two ohms. A D2 sub will wire to either 1 ohm, or 4 ohms. From then, you run it at the 336 watts, and then a second one will be wired in series to 2 ohms, taking the full 600 or so.

Yes, the IDQ should fairly easily keep up. Go with a good sealed box, or even IB, I would say - though that would be much more work than you'd like, I'm sure.

If you can, do 6.5" components. A much improved midbass response from them, due to the extra cone area. If you have problems with the grill too close, cut a baffle, of MDF preferably, and put it between the grill and the door, using new screws that match the length. I don't know how the car is set up, but that's what I'm imagining.

Otherwise - I'm not sure of a good rec to give you. I'd say the ID components, but those are a bit above the price range.

 

[misfit138 5,000+ posts]

Not sure on the components - but as for the subs, a dual 4 ohm sub will wire down to two ohms. A D2 sub will wire to either 1 ohm, or 4 ohms. From then, you run it at the 336 watts, and then a second one will be wired in series to 2 ohms, taking the full 600 or so.

You're obviously not sure about the subs either, frat boy. The Arc Audio FD 600.1 is rated for 600 watts @ 1 ohm. He'll want to buy dual 4 ohm subs if he plans on running a pair...

EDIT: I thought woofersetc's specs contained a typo. Apparently the FD 600.1, although 1 ohm stable, will produce more power @ 2 ohms. Never seen anything like that before. Hmmm....

 

[Upgrayedd 10+ year member]

I ran an idq 15 for awhile. I listen to a lot of metal. The 15 had no issues "keeping up" Ported they are even better.

 

[Upgrayedd 10+ year member]

EDIT: I thought woofersetc's specs contained a typo. Apparently the FD 600.1, although 1 ohm stable, will produce more power @ 2 ohms. Never seen anything like that before. Hmmm....

Some of the old kicker zr were like that.

 

[misfit138 5,000+ posts]

Some of the old kicker zr were like that.

That's news to me. I guess you really can learn something new every day...

 

[ImmortalFreak 10+ year member]

What I'd actually need to do is get a D2 and wire it to 4-ohms off my 4-channel via bridging 2 channels.

Then when I get the 600.1 as well as my other sub I'd wire both subs down to 1 Ohm. That amp can push 300W RMS to each sub at 1 Ohm. It's 600W RMS rated at 1 ohm, so I'd divide that between the 2 subs. Is this accurate? Assuming it is, my next question would be; Will the bass sound like shit at 1-Ohm on that amp?

 

[Blue Fury 10+ year member]

If you were willing to spend more, Id say buy my sub and box. Find it in threads I created or my sig.