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<blockquote data-quote="Plutoman" data-source="post: 6457389" data-attributes="member: 601528">Not sure on the components - but as for the subs, a dual 4 ohm sub will wire down to two ohms.&nbsp; A D2 sub will wire to either 1 ohm, or 4 ohms.&nbsp; From then, you run it at the 336 watts, and then a second one will be wired in series to 2 ohms, taking the full 600 or so.Yes, the IDQ should fairly easily keep up.&nbsp; Go with a good sealed box, or even IB, I would say - though that would be much more work than you&#039;d like, I&#039;m sure.If you can, do 6.5&quot; components.&nbsp; A much improved midbass response from them, due to the extra cone area.&nbsp; If you have problems with the grill too close, cut a baffle, of MDF preferably, and put it between the grill and the door, using new screws that match the length.&nbsp; I don&#039;t know how the car is set up, but that&#039;s what I&#039;m imagining.Otherwise - I&#039;m not sure of a good rec to give you.&nbsp; I&#039;d say the ID components, but those are a bit above the price range.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Plutoman, post: 6457389, member: 601528"] Not sure on the components - but as for the subs, a dual 4 ohm sub will wire down to two ohms. A D2 sub will wire to either 1 ohm, or 4 ohms. From then, you run it at the 336 watts, and then a second one will be wired in series to 2 ohms, taking the full 600 or so. Yes, the IDQ should fairly easily keep up. Go with a good sealed box, or even IB, I would say - though that would be much more work than you'd like, I'm sure. If you can, do 6.5" components. A much improved midbass response from them, due to the extra cone area. If you have problems with the grill too close, cut a baffle, of MDF preferably, and put it between the grill and the door, using new screws that match the length. I don't know how the car is set up, but that's what I'm imagining. Otherwise - I'm not sure of a good rec to give you. I'd say the ID components, but those are a bit above the price range. [/QUOTE]

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