SQL setup in a Ford Bronco (I've searched)

[muffinman944 10+ year member]

If you go with the CSS 7's, you'll want to research them a bit and make sure you have enough room for them. The drivers are quite deep so you'll want to make sure that you have enough room even with spacers. Make sure you roll down your window when you check for depth. The last thing you want to do is see that you have 5" of depth, install your woofer and then shatter your window or break the speaker when you roll it down because you only have 2.5" of depth with the window down.

Werd:thumbsup:

I think Im definitely going with these. The specs look to be exactly what I need (that and I have a guy who makes speakers for a living telling me that they are)

The doors on my truck have some flat surface area under the door panel, so I might try them there. Ive also done a little bit of fiberglass work and small box building, so Im sure I can find a way to make it work. If not theres always the rear L and R component area, which will be EASY.

Two big questions I still have:

First, my question about what to run to them still stands though. Do I just run the rear L/R component signal to them and just filter out all the highs or run the sub line to them and filter the extreme lowwws????? I looked over the data sheet, and from what I saw (and Im not pretending that I understood any of it) would I be correct that this speakers good from about 150/200 HZ-500 HZ?? If so then I would shoot the component signal with 500HZ and up filtered out? Let me know.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

Second, looks like these babys run at around 100w RMS @ 6 ohms. So if im getting 4, then should I wire them down to 1.5 Ohms and run a mono amp to them, or should I split them up and find a Class A or B (my way of saying component) amp that puts out 200W x 2 at 3 Ohms or 100W x 4 at 6 Ohms?

Basically, do I treat them like another sub (wired all together with a mono amp), or like components (2 or 4 channel amp)??

Now, Im guessing that the answer to my first question will dictate the answer to the second, but I just wanna cover my bases.

Sundown's customer service and fast warranty work should warrant the price difference compared to AQ. Not to mention it's a better built and better performing amplifier. If price was everything, everybody would shop at Walmart.

Cant argue with that. Ive will be using Sundown for whatever amps I need in this setup, bass and component, (my audiobahns are GAAAYYYYY).

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Werd:thumbsup:I think Im definitely going with these. The specs look to be exactly what I need (that and I have a guy who makes speakers for a living telling me that they are)

The doors on my truck have some flat surface area under the door panel, so I might try them there. Ive also done a little bit of fiberglass work and small box building, so Im sure I can find a way to make it work. If not theres always the rear L and R component area, which will be EASY.

Two big questions I still have:

First, my question about what to run to them still stands though. Do I just run the rear L/R component signal to them and just filter out all the highs or run the sub line to them and filter the extreme lowwws????? I looked over the data sheet, and from what I saw (and Im not pretending that I understood any of it) would I be correct that this speakers good from about 150/200 HZ-500 HZ?? If so then I would shoot the component signal with 500HZ and up filtered out? Let me know.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

Second, looks like these babys run at around 100w RMS @ 6 ohms. So if im getting 4, then should I wire them down to 1.5 Ohms and run a mono amp to them, or should I split them up and find a Class A or B (my way of saying component) amp that puts out 200W x 2 at 3 Ohms or 100W x 4 at 6 Ohms?

Basically, do I treat them like another sub (wired all together with a mono amp), or like components (2 or 4 channel amp)??

Now, Im guessing that the answer to my first question will dictate the answer to the second, but I just wanna cover my bases.

Cant argue with that. Ive will be using Sundown for whatever amps I need in this setup, bass and component, (my audiobahns are GAAAYYYYY).

Dedicated midbass means these speakers will only be expected to play midbass. You will retain your mids for the midrange freqs. Generally speaking, midbass speakers run about 50-250hz, give or take a bit on the top and bottom depending on the situation and personal taste. This means running an active filter system of some sort... either utilizing the filters on your deck and/or amplifiers, or buying a dedicated sound processor to add to your signal chain.
Midbass should be played in stereo, not mono. So to answer your second question, best bet will likely be run two pairs at 3ohms each pair, off an A/B amplifier, sending the proper Left and Right channels to each pair. Remember, these will be playing at least to 250hz, bass by that frequency is highly localizable.

 

[muffinman944 10+ year member]

Dedicated midbass means these speakers will only be expected to play midbass. You will retain your mids for the midrange freqs. Generally speaking, midbass speakers run about 50-250hz, give or take a bit on the top and bottom depending on the situation and personal taste. This means running an active filter system of some sort... either utilizing the filters on your deck and/or amplifiers, or buying a dedicated sound processor to add to your signal chain.
Midbass should be played in stereo, not mono. So to answer your second question, best bet will likely be run two pairs at 3ohms each pair, off an A/B amplifier, sending the proper Left and Right channels to each pair. Remember, these will be playing at least to 250hz, bass by that frequency is highly localizable.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif

Ok,

Since most amps are rated @4, 2, or 1 ohm, Im just gonna assume that the power output @ 3 ohms for any given amp is between the 2 and 4 ohm rating. Or is it not that simple???? I wanna run at least 100w to each driver, and (correct me if im wrong) Im not seeing any Sundown amps that can do that @3 ohms (need 200w x 2 @ 3 ohms). Ill check around for some other amps, reccommendations are welcome.

Im honestly thinking of doing 4 per side (8 total)-2 in each front door, and 2 in each rear L/R panel, or maybe all 8 in the rear passenger panels (that would be WAYYYYYY easier as well).

Soooo heres what Im thinking of://content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

(4-8) CSSDX7s with ???(suggestions) amp with any of the following.....

A. 2 x 18'' Fi Q w/BP on a SAZ3000D, AQ2200, or 2xSAE1000Ds

B. (2-4) x 15'' Fi Qw/BP on (1-2)SAZ3000D, (1-2)AQ2200s, or (2-4)SAE1000Ds

C. (2-4) x SI Mags on (1-2) x SAZ1500D, or (2-4) x SAE1000D

Im kinda leaning towards 8 x CSSDX7s from just looking at any of these setups.

Let me know your thoughts, or give an idea of your own that hasnt come up yet!!!! After I some input, Ill decide and BUY the stuff already and put up some pics of the install.

 

[muffinman944 10+ year member]

Im not seeing any Sundown amps that can do that @3 ohms (need 200w x 2 @ 3 ohms).

Actually, I didnt notice before, but the SAX 100.4 will do 320 x 2 bridged @ 4 ohms. Im not sure if theyre stable bridged @ 3 ohms though? Id like to run all Sundown if possible.

Youre thoughts on this and the above thread!!!! Thanks I really appreciate your advice:thumbsup://content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif

 

[muffinman944 10+ year member]

Buuuump

 

[sundownz Pro Seller]

What is the DC Resistance on your 3 ohm load ?

 

[Electrodynamic 10+ year member]

What is the DC Resistance on your 3 ohm load ?

Re is 6.4 Ohms per driver. Click me for the PDF

 

[Electrodynamic 10+ year member]

And as Neil has posted before, here is the AudioJunkies release on it.

 

[muffinman944 10+ year member]

Re is 6.4 Ohms per driver. Click me for the PDF

Ok, So if Im getting 4 total, putting 2 on each door wired in parallel, then I need 200W x 2 @ 3.2 ohms. I like the sundowns and wanna stick with them if at all possible. SUNDOWNZ, so will your SAX 100.4/bridged work for this? I just wanna make sure dropping 0.8 below 4 ohms is still ok.

Thank you all for your suggestions!!!!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/peace.gif.2db28b618ed8d1964ebbe2f5021d2c39.gif

I think this threads purpose has been served. Seems the concensus is some 15'' or 18'' Qs w/BP or wait for the Mags. Id start a "whats better 2x Fi Q 18''s w/bp, or 4x 12'' mags" thread, if nothing more than just to be annoying, but even jokingly I cant bring myself to ask people to compare two subs when one hasnt been released yet (although Im sure some of you have heard them, hehe, or even the one making them.

As far as AMP, If I get a "no" from Sundownz, then Ill start a thread in the AMP forum.

This was my fist thread and has been a 100% positive experience. Thank you all:veryhapp://content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif:veryhapp:

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

This was my fist thread and has been a 100% positive experience. Thank you all:veryhapp://content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif:veryhapp:

Expect things to go down hill from here. But oh... welcome.

 

[muffinman944 10+ year member]

Peeersheeate it!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[sundownz Pro Seller]

Ok, So if Im getting 4 total, putting 2 on each door wired in parallel, then I need 200W x 2 @ 3.2 ohms. I like the sundowns and wanna stick with them if at all possible. SUNDOWNZ, so will your SAX 100.4/bridged work for this? I just wanna make sure dropping 0.8 below 4 ohms is still ok.

3.2 is the DC load - that is a 4 ohm nominal load. The 100.4 will do over 300 watts per channel bridged into 4 ohms.

You are good to go.

 

[muffinman944 10+ year member]

3.2 is the DC load - that is a 4 ohm nominal load. The 100.4 will do over 300 watts per channel bridged into 4 ohms.
You are good to go.

Awesome!!!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/toast.gif.bc0657bf54b9ee653b6438524461341e.gif I didnt even know the difference, thanks for the clarification. I cant tell you how refreshing it is to get advise from "real experts" versus some pimply faced kid in an audio shop trying to convince me that those sony X-plodes will "make anything slam ". Thank you again, cant wait to get the Sundown amp in.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[sundownz Pro Seller]

Awesome!!!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/toast.gif.bc0657bf54b9ee653b6438524461341e.gif I didnt even know the difference, thanks for the clarification. I cant tell you how refreshing it is to get advise from "real experts" versus some pimply faced kid in an audio shop trying to convince me that those sony X-plodes will "make anything slam ". Thank you again, cant wait to get the Sundown amp in.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Glad to help any time I can //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif