now when u say the bass is not crisp...what do u mean? does it sound kind of muddy? What frequency is the sub lowpassed?Well I want to put it in a sealed box but I'm fearing I will lose the same response I get from it now with the ported box, with punch, but I don't really mind losing some. That's why I was looking at just getting two 10's instead since 2 12's would seem like a little much. I also just feel like the dcon doesn't give that crisp bass besides a couple of frequencies. I'm still trying to learn everything so teach me what I need to know because I'm willing to learn everything.
i mean its crisp, but not when you get to the lower frequencies, it blends a little sometimes. i dont have my lowpass set up for the new focal amp i got, because it doesnt have a good lowpass setting on it, i used to have it set on 25/28ish.now when u say the bass is not crisp...what do u mean? does it sound kind of muddy? What frequency is the sub lowpassed?
The Low pass I'm referring to dictates how high your sub is allowed to play, should be on your sub amp or HU. I'm sure you didnt low pass your sub at 28hz. If you did, you'd have virtually no bass.i mean its crisp, but not when you get to the lower frequencies, it blends a little sometimes. i dont have my lowpass set up for the new focal amp i got, because it doesnt have a good lowpass setting on it, i used to have it set on 25/28ish.
face palm, the ho's sound completely different t/s tell you nothing about actual tonality.Honest advice? Keep what you have.. Nothing you mentioned is really going to be much of a change.. The daytons have pretty similar t/s to the subs you already own. They won't sound much different the DCON's do very well sealed for SQ in a car do to their frequency response in smaller sized sealed enclosures.. What don't you like about the sound of your DCON's.. Until you figure that out everyone on here is just throwing out brands at a whim.. No real advice can be given without knowing what you don't like about your curent response. In my experience aboutu 40% of sound quality in a car is getting the correct frequency response.. Another 40% is getting rid of all the rattles and distortion they cause. The 15% is setting up proper phase and time alignment and making sure the mids can properly integrate.The last 5% is more about the distortion characteristics of the subwoofer itself, and they really aren't that noticeable until you get the first 95% in place. Nice thing about that is 40% nothing do to with what sub you run. The other 40% can be done with a variety of subs, but some are easier to fit the correct box in a car than others. 15% is about tuning properly.. The last 5% is more about the distortion characteristics of the subwoofer itself, and they really aren't that noticeable until you get the first 95% in place.
o gotcha i was thinking about the sub sonic settings, i had the low pass at 55 or 60.The Low pass I'm referring to dictates how high your sub is allowed to play, should be on your sub amp or HU. I'm sure you didnt low pass your sub at 28hz. If you did, you'd have virtually no bass.