SQ Sub recommendations

[mattsk42]

Ideally, I want as "up front bass" (cliche I know) as possible.

The ONLY goal is to have high high SQ while still being able to hear it at 75mph on a windy interstate. (if you've ever been on I90 you know what I mean) My car isn't the quietest either. Infiniti G35x. Setup will be entirely stock other than the sub for a while, eventually upgraded to SQ components. No competitions, no need for any excessive SPL at all.

I'll get whatever amp I need to power it, and whatever sub is best.

Price range is: What can I get for a sub+amp+wiring(to get it fully going off of the stock HU) for:

1. Less than $750

2. Less than $350

Less than includes tax, shipping, and does not mean = to.

I'm not opposed to any brand or age. I still love my original 10w7 and 500/1 in my other car.

Click to read more...

 

[DoesDad 10+ year member]

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/subwoofer-classifieds/534645-morel-ultimo-12-a.html

^^^ Here ya go! Aren't going to get much better SQ than a Morel Ultimo. It's been for sale a couple weeks. Maybe you can talk him down a bit....

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

You're going in the wrong direction by starting with the sub, especially if high dynamic range is what you need.

 

[mattsk42]

What would you start with then? It will be a good 6 months to a year before the next "item", so I figured I'd get the best experience out of cheap stock junk and a good sub vs HU and no sub or components and no sub, etc.

Open for suggestions.

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

Dayton Audio RSS315HO-4 12" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm 295-466

best deal on a sq sub amazing sounding sub, one of the best

id personally change the speakers and head unit and add a sq amp for your mids and highs before you go with a sub

 

[destined2race 10+ year member]

Ya adding the sub if your having issues on the interstate will in a sense just drown out the stock speakers even more. But if you just want to get your sub stage done some good sq subs are the Dayton HO's, w6, IDQ, Ultimo's, even as you know the w7s sealed are pretty good too.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

You're going in the wrong direction by starting with the sub, especially if high dynamic range is what you need.

couldn't agree more intact you probably won't need a sub..

can you make an adaptor to fit a 6.5 component set?

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

HU/processing first..deadening....front stage and amps...subs.....optional:rear ambience

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

Up front bass is not dictated by the choice of subwoofer. You need to make sure you have no audible rattles from the rear. This is the #1 cause of hearing bass coming from behind you. Along with eliminating rattles you can use time alignment to help get the bass sounding like it's coming from all around rather than one place. This doesn't work for all passengers, so it's a trade-off. A third step to take is adjusting the crossover on the subwoofer and the mids.

None of this matters if you have a stock head unit and no processing. Work on that and sound deadening first.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

sound deadening is good if you have rattles, making a completely seale cabin is much better done with a barrier..

 

[kramer_212 10+ year member]

I'm going to throw out the alpine type x, really liked mine when I had them

 

[sam_b03 10+ year member]

I had a Idq12v2 in my 370z. It had a nice presents. I had it wired for 8ohm on a amp rated for 600rms@4ohms bridged. I am guessing I was pushing around 300 to it. I wanted a little more spl so swapped it for a Sundown SA12. I really do miss the sq of the IDQ. Hearing the actual notes of the bass guitar was nice.

Deadening your car will make a huge difference. I order one lot from raamat. I still have plenty left over. It is the best $90 I have put into my car. Deadening the trunk of a hatch car really cuts down on the noise levels. You don't have a back seat to hold back the tire noise/exhaust like most cars.

 

[gunz4me2 10+ year member]

Good recommendations here and another vote for better component speakers with a more powerful midbass driver up front BEFORE upgrading/adding the subwoofer. From my personal experience, a more powerful midbass driver makes the choice of sub even less important. There is nothing like having the snap of that upper bass note blowing your pants around. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

As for deadening, I would do as much of the outer door skin with a quality deadener, then try to seal up as many of the access holes as you can. After that, I'd recommend stuffing some sort of closed cell foam between the door card and the sheet metal before you snap it into place.