Soundqubed HDS215

I don't have that tab. Under port, there's just diameter to adjust, and a port match number, which turns red when the port size is small enough. Maybe a different version?
CHAD
where it says transfer function magnitude, theres a drop list. click that.

heres is what you need to design the enclosure, winisd is just to check if the box specs work. This program is more comprehensive in getting box measurments, ratios and other stuff correct.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/38791-torres-box-tuning-calculator-updated-818/

 
where it says transfer function magnitude, theres a drop list. click that.
heres is what you need to design the enclosure, winisd is just to check if the box specs work. This program is more comprehensive in getting box measurments, ratios and other stuff correct.

Torres' Box Tuning Calculator - Updated 8/18 - Subwoofers / Enclosures - SMD Forum
According to this, at 500W, 32Hz, 13mm Xmax, says minimum port value is 7.8 inches... This may be a deal breaker...

CHAD

Car Audio - PORT Size Calculations and Formulas for WOOFER and Subwoofer BOXES

 
According to this, at 500W, 32Hz, 13mm Xmax, says minimum port value is 7.8 inches... This may be a deal breaker...
CHAD

Car Audio - PORT Size Calculations and Formulas for WOOFER and Subwoofer BOXES
No a 6" is good enough. As said again these online box calcs are not comprehensive as torres. Did you even try to download it and play with it?

With an aero, you only need 8-13 SQ inches of port area per cubic feet. rather than a slot's 12-16 (normal range). You dont have to use an 8" port, the bigger it is, the less bandwidth you get but you get increased efficiency. Mainly going really big with port area is for SPL competitions where you build a burp box playing a single note loud or if the subwoofer itself needs a lot of port area. This sub does not need that much, the xmax is very little, it does not need over 13 sq inches of port area per cubic feet.

I've already linked you to the proper tools proven to work best. If you want to go with crazy amounts of port area then go ahead but I'm telling you again and again, an 8" is NOT NEEDED. It'll be like a fart canon with an 8" aero

 
Alright then. Calculations are over. I'll flare a 6" x 14" long port, and the box should net 4 cubes or better tuned to 32Hz. I did download WINisd and Torres box calculator, plus tried every online calc out there, which give pretty much identical results (funny how math works). Whatever I build will be overkill for me anyway.

CHAD

 
Alright then. Calculations are over. I'll flare a 6" x 14" long port, and the box should net 4 cubes or better tuned to 32Hz. I did download WINisd and Torres box calculator, plus tried every online calc out there, which give pretty much identical results (funny how math works). Whatever I build will be overkill for me anyway.
CHAD
you forgot to enter in the woofer displacement aka the space the woofer takes up. You also need to enter in a few hundredths of a cubic feet for bracing. You will need to reinforce the woofer. Also with 15 width, the only way the sub can be mounted on would be the depth or the height portion. 15- 1.5 (wood thickness) is 13.5 so the sub will not fit with that. If your car is a trunk, you'll want the port and sub facing to the rear towards the trunk lid. In an SUV, you can have the sub fire up port to the rear.

A double baffle would definitely be beneficial too if you dont have any bracing.

Torres will pull ahead of every other calculator when it comes to slot ports. It auto calculates in the space the port takes up and allows you to input in the space the sub takes up along with bracing. Other calculators assume you've already subtracted those values. If you do so without properly accounting those values, the tuning will be off.

 
Thanks for your help. The 15" dimension will be a fiberglass mold, most of which is larger than the 15". The actual box will be something like 5-8% larger. I just don't know exactly.

CHAD

 
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