Sound Deadening doors ?

[AshleyOU]

Plan on deadening all 4 doors along with the trunk.

For the inner portion of the door I plan on doing 3 layers (Butyl deadener, CCF, and MLV) but what about the outer portion of the door ?

I've seen people cover the large exterior hole (which is normally covered with the clear water proof factory lining) with either deadener or MLV. Technically which of the 2 is better to cover the large open area ?

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[AshleyOU]

Any suggestions ? I've looked at multiple guides and everyone does it different. Some only do butyl deadener on the inside and then the outer portion is CCF/MLV. Have also seen where all 3 layers go on top of each other on just the inner portion and the outter portion either butyl deadener or some form of plastic

 

[John Doe]

Any suggestions ? I've looked at multiple guides and everyone does it different. Some only do butyl deadener on the inside and then the outer portion is CCF/MLV. Have also seen where all 3 layers go on top of each other on just the inner portion and the outter portion either butyl deadener or some form of plastic

SkizR has a website that explains each purpose of the materials in depth. ResoNiX or something like that you could google and there’ll be a website with deadening materials and such with a really in depth guide on how to treat your car properly.

 

[AshleyOU]

SkizR has a website that explains each purpose of the materials in depth. ResoNiX or something like that you could google and there’ll be a website with deadening materials and such with a really in depth guide on how to treat your car properly.

Yeah I actually read the guide earlier, it was confusing because no mention of MLV. The inside portion of the door they used butyl and the outter portion butyl + CCF and that was it, no sound blocking

The guide said soundblocking was pointless unless you do the entire car but I'm not buying that. Doing MLV on all 4 doors + trunk is definatley going to block out signficant noise. They also mentioned "we don't sell sound blocking so we can't mention it" which is lame, most people who do all this stuff do so for noise reduction and there basically like where not mentioning it because we don't sell it

 

[John Doe]

Yeah I actually read the guide earlier, it was confusing because no mention of MLV. The inside portion of the door they used butyl and the outter portion butyl + CCF and that was it, no sound blocking

The guide said soundblocking was pointless unless you do the entire car but I'm not buying that. Doing MLV on all 4 doors + trunk is definatley going to block out signficant noise. They also mentioned "we don't sell sound blocking so we can't mention it" which is lame, most people who do all this stuff do so for noise reduction and there basically like where not mentioning it because we don't sell it

I agree, in relative terms it definitely beats what ours cars sound like stock lol. But I guess that’s from a real audiophiles perspective. I guess we’ll just have to wait for one of the vets to chime in.

 

[Firewalker]

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Had the wrong information on who started it.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Plan on deadening all 4 doors along with the trunk.

For the inner portion of the door I plan on doing 3 layers (Butyl deadener, CCF, and MLV) but what about the outer portion of the door ?

I've seen people cover the large exterior hole (which is normally covered with the clear water proof factory lining) with either deadener or MLV. Technically which of the 2 is better to cover the large open area ?

Sheet metal plus deadener on top is the best solution. Turn the door into a real enclosure. Make sure you deaden the plastic door panel as well. Excessive i know... But so will be your midbass.

 

[John Doe]

Sheet metal plus deadener on top is the best solution. Turn the door into a real enclosure. Make sure you deaden the plastic door panel as well. Excessive i know... But so will be your midbass.

Would you agree that doing the floor of the car is a waste of time? I’ve read mixed opinions of doing the floor of your car. Would you really even need to go to that length or is doors and trunk enough?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Would you agree that doing the floor of the car is a waste of time? I’ve read mixed opinions of doing the floor of your car. Would you really even need to go to that length or is doors and trunk enough?

floor of the car is not for midbass its for reducing road noise which means the less need to drive the speakers to their limits for more output which keeps response more linear and pleasing at moderate to high listening levels. Along with the obvious benefit of less road noise interfering with the sound as well. So its mainly a mids and highs (including soundstage, depth, tonality etc...) skewed upgrade not much of a midbass upgrade.

 

[SkizeR 10+ year member]

Doing MLV on all 4 doors + trunk is definatley going to block out signficant noise.

No, it won't. The sound will enter from elsewhere. Analogy: we're going to pretend sound is water, and the outside road noise is multiple people standing around you with fire hoses. If you only block a portion, you're still going to get absolutely hammered with water and will notice zero difference in how wet you were with *some* barrier vs. no barrier at all. Seriously, don't bother with MLV if doing just the doors. Waste of time, money, and materials. Don't believe me? Do your CLD and CCF, and go for a car ride. On that ride, pick a stretch of road and a specific speed. While on that stretch and going that speed, take your measurement mic and take an RTA average in Room EQ Wizard for that stretch. Now add your MLV and do it again, on that same stretch, going the same speed. I've done it, but if you don't believe me, that's fine. Try for yourself. I didn't go in depth into MLV on my site because, again, it's pointless to do unless doing the whole car, and nearly everyone isn't bothering to do that these days since newer cars are already pretty damn quiet. They make it nearly impossible to do CLD/CCF/MLV under their panels. The only way it's not pointless to do just the doors is if you are using the MLV to seal large holes on the door to prevent the front and rear wave of the speaker from interacting and canceling each other out. Still, this method doesn't work very well, making it very difficult to get most doors back on. Just use ABS and CLD/CCF. If you think this is just a sales pitch because we don't sell MLV, so be it and have at it

 

[SkizeR 10+ year member]

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Skizer started this group on facebook. Ask to join and post your question there as well.

I did not start that group. That is Chris Perdue, aka, TooStubborn2Fail (who did the original CLD test on DIYMA) group

 

[Firewalker]

Ah my bad, I thought you did. My apologies

 

[SkizeR 10+ year member]

Ah my bad, I thought you did. My apologies

No worries. I'm excited, though. His actual full-blown testing should be starting this weekend.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Leave the floor till last to deaden, and only if your budget allows it. The carpet and carpet backing already provide a significant amount of sound deadening, more than any other portion of the car from the factory (generally speaking).

 

[AshleyOU]

No, it won't. The sound will enter from elsewhere. Just use ABS and CLD/CCF.

Now i'm even more confused

Enthausist rant about how people use CLD/CCF for the wrong reason and that it won't really reduce or block sound. They say "if you actually want to block sound you need something like MLV"

Now the enthuasist are basically saying "MLV is essentially pointless, very few people will actual install it correctly to make it worthwhile"

So no matter what option your doomed ? Also seems weird that majority of people who buy something like Luxury Liner pro are experiencing placebo when they say sound is reduced because according to the logic sound will just come in from somewhere else since very very few do full car coverage