Wow, apparently my post is completely worthless or you like to hack down previous posts (mine) for a post count.
Jeez, your a little sensitive for this place. I was pretty gentle considering how bad your advice was, but since you insist, let's look at your "brilliant" advice. I promise you I don't care what my post count is.
Being that I've installed a lot of deadner and am under the impression that even if they sold it for double the price any kind of deadner would still be worth it......I'll put my 2 cents in.
This is idiotic - double the price for anything sold as deadener would be worth it?
Your best case scenario would be to do 3 things:
1. Secure your wheel-wells with a liquid deadner. Mat would require HIGH maintenance and upkeep because it would be applied upside down in the wheel-well. Because, in this case, Mat would be applied on the outer shell of the vehicle, you would have heat in the summer and cold in the winter causing negative affects on the tar based (or butyl) backing. Simply put causing it to constantly fall off especially if the Mat were layered on top of its self. Mat is heavier then you expect. This step alone will not solve your road noise problem nor will you gain any SQ out of your audio.
Liquid deadener is always going to be less effective than a decent butyl/aluminum foil mat. In the circumstances you describe, butyl/aluminum foil mat is also going to be more durable for external use than any of the liquids sold for sound deadening.
The only butyl mat that has ever been reported to fail because of poor adhesive bond strength is eDead v1². All eDeads use Mylar instead of aluminum foil so I wouldn't use them any way.
The falling off scenario you describe so dramatically will apply to asphalt only. Since asphalt should NEVER be used for sound deadening, that problem will no occur.
Since any exterior sound deadening is going to be exposed to the elements, I'd only suggest it as a last resort - when materials applied to the interior don't get the job done. The exception to this would be if you have a problem with gravel and dirt being thrown into the wheel wells making noise. In this case, one of the undercoating products designed specifically for this would be a better and more durable choice.
2. Secure the insides of all four doors. In this case use your Mat. The level of sound deadening will vary on how much you apply. The more the better, don't be afraid to pile it on. This step will ensure you substantial gain in door speaker output and clarity and a low to moderate decrease in road noise.
"Secure" is a bizarre choice of words, but OK. Advising anyone to "pile it on" is only good advice if you are trying to increase vibration damper sales. There is a point of diminishing returns. I personally use more than makes real scientific sense, but once the resonance is out of the panels, there is little point in adding more. Much better to get a barrier in there after you have damped the doors thoroughly.
That said, doors are extremely transparent to noise. Sealing up the access holes is also very important for both noise abatement and improved response from door mounted speakers. I like to use aluminum flashing that I buy at Home Depot, in the roofing department. A few self tapping screws, some silicon sealer and a little deadener and you are good to go.
3. Secure your floor with Mat (Temporarily removing factory seats and carpet to apply). In this case floors can't handle many layers of Mat due to re-fitting factory carpet and such. Decide on a thicker than the normal type of mat. An example would be too apply a Dynamat Extreme compared to a Dynamat Original. If your are able to fit more than one layer of Mat on the floor, then by all means do so due to the fact that this step will reduce more road noise then step 2. This step will also allow for improved SQ inside the cabin.
Again, a little bit of vibration damper covered by a barrier is going to be MUCH more effective. Dynamat Xtreme is 67 mils thick. Dynamat Original is 70-80 mils thick. Dynamat Original is also asphalt so it violates the first rule of sound deadening.
"This step will also allow for improved SQ inside the cabin." ?????
ALL THREE steps put together will allow you a quiter ride. Unfortunately you will more than likely continue to hear some form of muffled road noise considering that these are 36" mud tires.
As far as improved SQ is concerned. Due to the fact that we are talking about a vehicle with a rather large cabin space, more Mat will be needed. Although steps 2 and 3 will improve your SQ and stop rattles, layers of Mat underneath the roof liner and back hatch are just as important when installing a complete audio system (Aftermarket speakers and subwoofers).
Look at
eBay for different types of Mat as it can get expensive quickly.
Hope this helps.
-Drew
There's no doubt that following your three steps would lead to some incremental improvement, but no where near what can be achieved if you approach the project logically. Vibration damper reduces resonance and vibration. Barriers block noise. Use the right tool for the job.
The
eBay advice can be very dangerous. Several
eBay vendors routinely claim that the asphalt flashing tape they are selling is butyl. It's fine if you are buying a known brand from a known vendor, but I'd stay away from the people selling sound deadener and exercise equipment or tea cups. There are some real scoundrels in this market.
I hope this response is more to your liking. I'm sorry I previously chose to just offer my opinion without explaining how wrong you were on almost every point. Sorry if that hurt your feelings. I've taken the time to explain why you are wrong on almost every point. Hope that's better for you.