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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Rudy" data-source="post: 4397411" data-attributes="member: 568035">Jeez, your a little sensitive for this place. I was pretty gentle considering how bad your advice was, but since you insist, let's look at your "brilliant" advice. I promise you I don't care what my post count is.This is idiotic - double the price for anything sold as deadener would be worth it?Liquid deadener is always going to be less effective than a decent butyl/aluminum foil mat. In the circumstances you describe, butyl/aluminum foil mat is also going to be more durable for external use than any of the liquids sold for sound deadening.The only butyl mat that has ever been reported to fail because of poor adhesive bond strength is eDead v1². All eDeads use Mylar instead of aluminum foil so I wouldn't use them any way.The falling off scenario you describe so dramatically will apply to asphalt only. Since asphalt should NEVER be used for sound deadening, that problem will no occur.Since any exterior sound deadening is going to be exposed to the elements, I'd only suggest it as a last resort - when materials applied to the interior don't get the job done. The exception to this would be if you have a problem with gravel and dirt being thrown into the wheel wells making noise. In this case, one of the undercoating products designed specifically for this would be a better and more durable choice."Secure" is a bizarre choice of words, but OK. Advising anyone to "pile it on" is only good advice if you are trying to increase vibration damper sales. There is a point of diminishing returns. I personally use more than makes real scientific sense, but once the resonance is out of the panels, there is little point in adding more. Much better to get a barrier in there after you have damped the doors thoroughly.That said, doors are extremely transparent to noise. Sealing up the access holes is also very important for both noise abatement and improved response from door mounted speakers. I like to use aluminum flashing that I buy at Home Depot, in the roofing department. A few self tapping screws, some silicon sealer and a little deadener and you are good to go.Again, a little bit of vibration damper covered by a barrier is going to be MUCH more effective. Dynamat Xtreme is 67 mils thick. Dynamat Original is 70-80 mils thick. Dynamat Original is also asphalt so it violates the first rule of sound deadening. "This step will also allow for improved SQ inside the cabin." ?????There's no doubt that following your three steps would lead to some incremental improvement, but no where near what can be achieved if you approach the project logically. Vibration damper reduces resonance and vibration. Barriers block noise. Use the right tool for the job.The eBay advice can be very dangerous. Several eBay vendors routinely claim that the asphalt flashing tape they are selling is butyl. It's fine if you are buying a known brand from a known vendor, but I'd stay away from the people selling sound deadener and exercise equipment or tea cups. There are some real scoundrels in this market.I hope this response is more to your liking. I'm sorry I previously chose to just offer my opinion without explaining how wrong you were on almost every point. Sorry if that hurt your feelings. I've taken the time to explain why you are wrong on almost every point. Hope that's better for you.</blockquote>

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