Soldering vs crimping and electrical resistance

[JohnKuthe]

I always solder for probably 12 gauge and smaller since it can easily be done with a soldering iron. I tried soldering 4ga CCA once and I couldn't get the wire hot enough with my iron or gun (maybe it would've worked with copper). I tried a propane torch and that got it hot enough, but it was a charred mess. For large wires I used a dead blow hammer and an indent crimping tool:
My father had a 300W soldering iron, it was a monster. I used it sometimes, but usually the soldering gun for small electronic work. It would have soldered that 4AWG easily!

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=indent+crimping+tool&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aindent+crimping+tool

As far as electrical resistance goes, I'd imagine it'd be negligible if either way was done correctly - at least initially. For small wires I prefer soldering over anything else because I know the connection won't come undone or oxidize easily, so I don't have to redo it down the road. For the large gauge wires soldering would probably be ever so slightly better, but unless you're going for a record and trying for any tiny increase possible I don't think it's worth it. Crimped correctly the wire would probably support my weight; it's not coming undone easily.

 

[JohnKuthe]

I always solder for probably 12 gauge and smaller since it can easily be done with a soldering iron. I tried soldering 4ga CCA once and I couldn't get the wire hot enough with my iron or gun (maybe it would've worked with copper). I tried a propane torch and that got it hot enough, but it was a charred mess. For large wires I used a dead blow hammer and an indent crimping tool:

My father has a 300W soldering iron, it would have easily soldered that 4AWG.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=indent+crimping+tool&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aindent+crimping+tool

As far as electrical resistance goes, I'd imagine it'd be negligible if either way was done correctly - at least initially. For small wires I prefer soldering over anything else because I know the connection won't come undone or oxidize easily, so I don't have to redo it down the road. For the large gauge wires soldering would probably be ever so slightly better, but unless you're going for a record and trying for any tiny increase possible I don't think it's worth it. Crimped correctly the wire would probably support my weight; it's not coming undone easily.

I was actually hoping for some actual objective test data, not a bunch of "Oh, this is what I do" I'm sure they both work very well. I can imagine that the lead/tin mix of solder probably has higher inherent resistance than pure crimped copper. Higher resistance metal melted in like solder would produce a very slight increase in resistance I can see. I wanna know how much! I'm an Electrical Engineer.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I was actually hoping for some actual objective test data, not a bunch of "Oh, this is what I do" I'm sure they both work very well. I can imagine that the lead/tin mix of solder probably has higher inherent resistance than pure crimped copper. Higher resistance metal melted in like solder would produce a very slight increase in resistance I can see. I wanna know how much! I'm an Electrical Engineer.

It doesn't matter //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[BSchrowang]

Try it and find out. Take some 14ga. Solder two pieces of 14 together and crimp two pieces of 14ga together and measuere the resistance .

 

[JohnKuthe]

Try it and find out. Take some 14ga. Solder two pieces of 14 together and crimp two pieces of 14ga together and measuere the resistance .

Yep, except that I'd have to get a really good precise VOM or other method of measuring resistance, plus do a statistically number of soldered vs. crimped connections, measure their resistance and compile all the data. Which I would do except it's a LOT easier to just inquire if anyone else has! I thought surely others may have already done this here. But I see maybe not! :-(

John Kuthe...

 

[JohnKuthe]

I am having a local guy install my Alpine car audio system and the subject of soldering vs. crimping electrical connections has come up. I am quite good at soldering and my installer guy confessed to me he is not very good at soldering and has always crimped his electrical connections in an auto audio system install.
What's the latest wisdom on this debate, please?

Thanks, John Kuthe...

Was over at my installer guy's house today as we/he got started by installing/routing the 0AWG main 12V+ cable from the battery back to the amp pit (2006 Grand Caravan Stow-n-Go middle seat storage pits) and now I know: these cables come pre-tinned! No need to solder, just crimp with lots of pressure!

Think I may still solder the speaker wire terminals to the speaker terminals AND the crimped wire to the connector too! Can't hurt IMHO.

John Kuthe...

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

Think I may still solder the speaker wire terminals to the speaker terminals AND the crimped wire to the connector too! Can't hurt IMHO.

John Kuthe...

Either create a mechanical bare wire connection around/through the speaker terminals and then solder, or use spade terminals of the correct size and slip them onto the speaker terminals. If you use spade terminals to terminate the speaker wires and then solder them you have defeated the practical purpose of spade terminals. You also run a higher risk of desoldering the terminals from the speakers as the spade terminals add more mass to draw heat away from the joint.

Don't forget to either cover the connections with heat shrink wrap or use good quality electrical tape for protection against corrosion. Super 33+ is the standard in the mobile electronics world.

 

[JohnKuthe]

Either create a mechanical bare wire connection around/through the speaker terminals and then solder, or use spade terminals of the correct size and slip them onto the speaker terminals. If you use spade terminals to terminate the speaker wires and then solder them you have defeated the practical purpose of spade terminals. You also run a higher risk of desoldering the terminals from the speakers as the spade terminals add more mass to draw heat away from the joint.

I think I can solder the spade terminals to the speaker terminals without melting anything nearby. I will chek before doing it, thanks! I can't imagine that small spade terminal to the speaker terminal

Don't forget to either cover the connections with heat shrink wrap or use good quality electrical tape for protection against corrosion. Super 33+ is the standard in the mobile electronics world.

 

[JohnKuthe]

Either create a mechanical bare wire connection around/through the speaker terminals and then solder, or use spade terminals of the correct size and slip them onto the speaker terminals. If you use spade terminals to terminate the speaker wires and then solder them you have defeated the practical purpose of spade terminals. You also run a higher risk of desoldering the terminals from the speakers as the spade terminals add more mass to draw heat away from the joint.

I think I can solder the spade terminals to the speaker terminals without melting anything nearby. I will check before doing it, thanks! I can't imagine that small spade terminal to the speaker terminal being the best electrical connection from the speaker wire to the inputs on the speaker itself.

Don't forget to either cover the connections with heat shrink wrap or use good quality electrical tape for protection against corrosion. Super 33+ is the standard in the mobile electronics world.

Absolutely, I have a bunch of heat shrink tubing I can use. Just put it over the speaker wire, connect the wire to the speaker and slide the heat shrink tube over the speaker terminal with wire and shrink the tubing on it. Thanks!

John Kuthe...

 

[tymoto21 10+ year member]

The low voltage 12v is better with crimping

Soldering the speaker outputs is fine as that is generally a much higher voltage with much less current

 

[JohnKuthe]

The low voltage 12v is better with crimping

Yep, especially with a 0AWG cable made of a zillion small tinned copper wires! As soon as I saw that all the individual strands were individually tinned co[per I was like AHA!

Soldering the speaker outputs is fine as that is generally a much higher voltage with much less current

Yes because soldering makes for a solid bulletproof electrical connection. Is what I always thought. I learned to solder as a kid!

John Kuthe...

 

[wingless]

Most of my mobile wiring work (~95%) is marine, so the ABYC regulations are followed. Those state that solder is not permitted to provide mechanical support for the connection. Solder also makes a region of the wire rigid / inflexible / brittle and more prone to breakage. As such, almost all my connections are performed using appropriate crimp tools.

My crimp tool arsenal will properly crimp from 4/0 to 32 AWG. Here are some of my crimp tools: 2 AWG to 8 AWG and right angle flag Faston; Red, Blue and Yellow Insulated Terminals and 2/0 to 4/0 Terminals.

A properly formed crimp will reshape the copper conductor strands and will reshape the crimp barrel to form a solid mass within the crimp zone, forcing out all the air gaps to make this solid lump of copper. The cross section shows the round copper strands changing into a polygon shape once crimped properly.

Here is a representative example showing a good crimp.

When I need to solder, then I will provide additional mechanical support so that effort to yank apart the connection will not exert force on the joint. When I'm soldering I will stagger the joints, do a Western Union type connection, solder, shrink tubing, then strain relief, as-shown in this post.

 

[JohnKuthe]

I'm sure the reason I was at first skeptical of crimping was because my only experience with crimping was with cheap Chinese JUNK crimping tools, not anything like my installer guy whipped out, his 20 ton hydraulic crimping tool! Now I am a crimping convert especially with those big ole fat zillion strand cables!

Gotta have the right tools for the job and my installer guy has them!

John Kuthe...

 

[nismotwin 10+ year member]

12awg and smaller i solder and crimp the larger wiring usually just using a vice. On smaller gauge wire i have these nice clear heat shrink tubes that have a ring of solder inside. That you can just use the heat gun to solder and heat shrink at the same time. They also have sealant that seals the ends once used.

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

Great pics! Thanks! Yeah, I wish my installer guy was more into making the front doors like real speaker enclosures, but I sent him a Youtube video of a guy really doing it right and he was like "I'll stick the Dynamat in, but that's about all".
Yeah, I know, maybe I should have found someone better to do my work for me., but...

John Kuthe...

If he isnt willing to do it right then find a different installer.