Solder vs crimp.

For larger wires, like 2/0 of 4/0, the tool I use is the T&B TBM6 w/ appropriately-sized dies, as-shown in these images. This is a high-quality, heavy-duty tool that is very versatile, w/ many different die sets available for different crimp applications.

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For medium sized crimp, from 2 AWG to 8 AWG, the tool I use is the Molex 64001-3900D Crimp Tool. This is a high-quality, heavy-duty tool that provides an excellent crimp.

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The tool I use for right angle flag crimp connectors, from 22 AWG to 14 AWG is the Panduit CT-300-1 Crimp Tool.

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For the standard red / blue / yellow crimp connectors, for 22 AWG to 10 AWG, I use the Xcelite ECP-100 Crimp Tool.

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hammer or pneumatic crimp for large cables or gtfo

small splices are best soldered long term imo, biggest problem is the solder joint flexing and breaking off

crimps work just as well if you get the right size, and use the right crimping tool. it becomes a pain as you get smaller because of so many sizes so most people use a crimp much larger than the wire and it creates problems

 
For larger wires, like 2/0 of 4/0, the tool I use is the T&B TBM6 w/ appropriately-sized dies, as-shown in these images. This is a high-quality, heavy-duty tool that is very versatile, w/ many different die sets available for different crimp applications.
23763241218_799c0206a4_b.jpg


37567585906_5ed1dbdc5e_b.jpg


23763241348_efe8a5c8dd_b.jpg


For medium sized crimp, from 2 AWG to 8 AWG, the tool I use is the Molex 64001-3900D Crimp Tool. This is a high-quality, heavy-duty tool that provides an excellent crimp.

37614258591_0852b420dd_b.jpg


37614258541_1d431f89f7_b.jpg


37585092292_db921d1c47_b.jpg


The tool I use for right angle flag crimp connectors, from 22 AWG to 14 AWG is the Panduit CT-300-1 Crimp Tool.

23761418608_802e2fbf43_b.jpg


37614258381_9077ca5761_b.jpg


For the standard red / blue / yellow crimp connectors, for 22 AWG to 10 AWG, I use the Xcelite ECP-100 Crimp Tool.

37614258701_f24808d573_b.jpg


37614258741_776d2c75e2_b.jpg







I noticed your bigger wire 2/0 shows some of the wire exposed....you never wanna see that. make it short but not too short so it fits into the lug properly, then wrap it all up in a heat shrink tubing.

I still say hydraulic crimping is the best with the right tools/dies....but there are other alternatives if one isn't feasible.

 
For mine, the main radio plug was mated to the Metra 70-1817 Receiver Wiring Harness. The splices are staggered by about 1", in three groups, so that all the splices DO NOT happen at the same position. I use soldered Western Union splices, covered w/ adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing. (Never apply too much solder that wicks up under the insulation, making the wire stiff.) All of the wires are labeled for function. I use my Brady IDxpert, in these cases printing on shrink tubing or on adhesive self-laminating label stock.

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The objective for a proper crimp is to use the connector barrel and the crimp tool to deform / reshape the parts from individual conductor strands surrounded by air to a homogenous mass, devoid of air, as-shown in these images.

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My experience w/ the hammer tool is that it has not provided acceptable results, so I've discontinued usage and instead use high-quality crimp tools.

All of the finished crimp images from those inexpensive hydraulic tools that I have seen look horrible. They look like the crimp die sizes are totally wrong and inappropriate for the crimp connectors.

The connector manufacturers have detailed specifications for the crimp to attain acceptable results. The inexpensive tools frequently fail to satisfy the specified crimp requirements.
And this is coming from a guy who puts subs in the rear doors of a car.

You took a lot of time and effort to go great lengths on detailing/labeling each wire and it's function. That to me is unnecessary as for the rest of us since we have them pretty much memorized. Also....I myself would rather use a butt connector in between wires AND heat shrink tubing...give it that nice watertight look to it.

I still say hydraulic crimping is the best with the right tools/dies....but there are other alternatives if one isn't feasible.

 
When I say came loose it was one wire when I was swapping a battery. I wanted to put new lugs in the 4 1/0 cable I have under the hood. And hammer crimp is not ideal under there is why I asked. I have a cabling tool somewhat like a crimper I made work and has a nice and solid connection/crimp. Was just curious. And not buying a 200-300$ tool for 4 lugs lol.

 
Please post elusive unicorn images of the $30 eBay hydraulic tool making acceptable crimps.

Thanks for the helpful juvenile comments.
Don't own a hydraulic crimp.

Your absolutely welcome //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
Larger high current wires should not be soldered

The lead solder has a much higher resistance than the copper wire and at very high amperage can heat up

Use a good crimp shrink wrap it and IF you are worried use dielectric grease or paint your lugs to prevent oxidizing

 
Please post elusive unicorn images of the $30 eBay hydraulic tool making acceptable crimps.

Thanks for the helpful juvenile comments.
I think his point was not spending a few hundred dollars in professional tier lineman tools to do one audio build every few years.

When I say came loose it was one wire when I was swapping a battery. I wanted to put new lugs in the 4 1/0 cable I have under the hood. And hammer crimp is not ideal under there is why I asked. I have a cabling tool somewhat like a crimper I made work and has a nice and solid connection/crimp. Was just curious. And not buying a 200-300$ tool for 4 lugs lol.
In a tight space I've got away with just using vice grips. It's pretty tedious since you need to adjust a bunch of times and hit it from a couple angles, but it'll get you there if you're persistent. Lug terminals with set screws are pretty cheap these days either and are a viable alternative. And I've had pretty good results with the inexpensive swedge tool I picked up from weldingsupply.com. If you own a beefy hammer and aren't a total pansy it'll do everything fancy crimpers will do.

 
For larger wires, like 2/0 of 4/0, the tool I use is the T&B TBM6 w/ appropriately-sized dies, as-shown in these images. This is a high-quality, heavy-duty tool that is very versatile, w/ many different die sets available for different crimp applications.
23763241218_799c0206a4_b.jpg


37567585906_5ed1dbdc5e_b.jpg


23763241348_efe8a5c8dd_b.jpg
My T&B WT-117 / TBM6 crimp tool only had the Sta-Kon 11810 / 11802 dies, one half universal for 2AWG to 250 MCM, the other half specified for 4/0 lugs (works for 2/0 lugs), so the utility was limited.
The three T&B dies were purchased to provide copper lug coverage from 8 AWG through 4/0 AWG (but not 4 AWG) and aluminum lug coverage from 10 AWG through 2/0 AWG (but not 6 AWG), die numbers 13474, 13475 and 13477.

My two Sta-Kon dies were sold so the cost was a wash, but now I have tools for complete lug crimp coverage from 22 AWG to 4/0 AWG.

Old / Sold T&B Sta-Kon Die Set

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New T&B Die Numbers 13474, 13475 and 13477

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Table Showing New T&B Die Coverage

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cold weld (crimp) anything 8 gauge or thicker

/thread

(hell, *proper* crimps on any size beat out solder, but most dont have the resources to do that. proper crimping methods/tools/equipment take a lot of time and are very costly)

 
cold weld (crimp) anything 8 gauge or thicker

(hell, *proper* crimps on any size beat out solder, but most dont have the resources to do that. proper crimping methods/tools/equipment take a lot of time and are very costly)
Many use this Ancor 701010 Crimp Tool for those thick wire sizes. The lower cost falls into the acceptable range for many users.
 
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