For larger wires, like 2/0 of 4/0, the tool I use is the T&B TBM6 w/ appropriately-sized dies, as-shown in these images. This is a high-quality, heavy-duty tool that is very versatile, w/ many different die sets available for different crimp applications.
For medium sized crimp, from 2 AWG to 8 AWG, the tool I use is the Molex 64001-3900D Crimp Tool. This is a high-quality, heavy-duty tool that provides an excellent crimp.
The tool I use for right angle flag crimp connectors, from 22 AWG to 14 AWG is the Panduit CT-300-1 Crimp Tool.
For the standard red / blue / yellow crimp connectors, for 22 AWG to 10 AWG, I use the Xcelite ECP-100 Crimp Tool.
And this is coming from a guy who puts subs in the rear doors of a car.For mine, the main radio plug was mated to the Metra 70-1817 Receiver Wiring Harness. The splices are staggered by about 1", in three groups, so that all the splices DO NOT happen at the same position. I use soldered Western Union splices, covered w/ adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing. (Never apply too much solder that wicks up under the insulation, making the wire stiff.) All of the wires are labeled for function. I use my Brady IDxpert, in these cases printing on shrink tubing or on adhesive self-laminating label stock.
The objective for a proper crimp is to use the connector barrel and the crimp tool to deform / reshape the parts from individual conductor strands surrounded by air to a homogenous mass, devoid of air, as-shown in these images.
My experience w/ the hammer tool is that it has not provided acceptable results, so I've discontinued usage and instead use high-quality crimp tools.
All of the finished crimp images from those inexpensive hydraulic tools that I have seen look horrible. They look like the crimp die sizes are totally wrong and inappropriate for the crimp connectors.
The connector manufacturers have detailed specifications for the crimp to attain acceptable results. The inexpensive tools frequently fail to satisfy the specified crimp requirements.
Please post elusive unicorn images of the $30 eBay hydraulic tool making acceptable crimps.I still say hydraulic crimping is the best with the right tools/dies.
Thanks for the helpful juvenile comments.And this is coming from a guy who puts subs in the rear doors of a car.
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