Skar vs sundown

[massivespl]

are you seriously advising someone to raise their gain based on a picture?

Yes I have never had one system in my entire life where full power was with the gain at 9 o'clock. U would prly have to run a line driver and boost RCA voltage up to 6-7volt for that.

 

[mazdakid 5,000+ posts]

Impedance rise. Different factors affect the impedance that your amp actually sees from your subs.
You could wire your subs to 1 ohm, and they will act like an 8 ohm load on music. Or you could wire to 1 ohm and it only rises to 2 ohms. Lots of different things happen, but it will always go up. Never down.

It goes up and down when you're playing music.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

It goes up and down when you're playing music.

Yes, I'm saying impedance will never be lower than what you wired it to at rest.

 

[els1989]

Hmm dd1

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[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Yes I have never had one system in my entire life where full power was with the gain at 9 o'clock. U would prly have to run a line driver and boost RCA voltage up to 6-7volt for that.

That's pisspoor advice.

If you'll notice, his input voltage range starts at 6V. Do the math for what that might be at 9 o'clock.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Hmm dd1

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Scope>DD1 imo

 

[els1989]

Upgrade amp?

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[els1989]

Scope>DD1 imo

Adulbrich I'm only 25 and half the time I don't have a clue W.tF your saying... What are you saying

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[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Adulbrich I'm only 25 and half the time I don't have a clue W.tF your saying... What are you saying

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Use an oscilloscope to actually see a visual representation of the wave.

When it starts clipping, you will actually be able to see the waveform begin to square and/or distort.

I wouldn't use a DD1. If I recall correctly, it does allow for some clipping before the light flashes.

My O-scope was like $70

 

[els1989]

Use an oscilloscope to actually see a visual representation of the wave.
When it starts clipping, you will actually be able to see the waveform begin to square and/or distort.

I wouldn't use a DD1. If I recall correctly, it does allow for some clipping before the light flashes.

My O-scope was like $70

Smd did a comparison to show the accuracy of the dd1 and it was spot on accurate... But do tell where you got the o scope

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[brafferty]

i moved the box an iphone 5's lenngth away from the hatch, it kinda helped, but not what i was hoping, i also will upload a new pic of the settings, hopefully i dont need a bigger amp, i like this one, its just not giving me that "oh **** i cant breathe" feeling i want, i wish i could find a cheap premeir sub that matches my old school one, that thing gave nice pressure when only pushing 200 watts, then i could compare, and this ossilator thing or whatever sounds interesting, sounds like itll making tuning properly much easier

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Smd did a comparison to show the accuracy of the dd1 and it was spot on accurate... But do tell where you got the o scope

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Music has different recording levels. Only proper knowlege of one's system and limits is accurate because the bass strength varying from one song from a genre of music is vastly different from genre of music.

i moved the box an iphone 5's lenngth away from the hatch, it kinda helped, but not what i was hoping, i also will upload a new pic of the settings, hopefully i dont need a bigger amp, i like this one, its just not giving me that "oh **** i cant breathe" feeling i want, i wish i could find a cheap premeir sub that matches my old school one, that thing gave nice pressure when only pushing 200 watts, then i could compare, and this ossilator thing or whatever sounds interesting, sounds like itll making tuning properly much easier

So with a cheaper sub, you got that feeling off of only 200 watts in the same car similar box specs?

To be honest man, you are better off going with an 18 with the space you have. I recommend selling the type Rs and box to a local kid for around 250-320 and get a soundqubed HDC3 18 D1. It will definitely give you what you want. In a 6.0-7.5 cubic foot box tuned to 35-40hz with 16-20 sq inches of port area per cubic feet.

http://www.soundqubed.com/HDC3118-Copper-Coil-Subwoofer_p_25.html

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

For a test run, see if you can hook up your friend's type S setup to your car and see how well it does and see how the type Rs do in his car. If his car is still louder than its vehicle acoustics. If you get louder with the type S, then it could be that your hatch doesnt like sub up port back orientation OR your electrical might not be adequate enough for the amp.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Smd did a comparison to show the accuracy of the dd1 and it was spot on accurate... But do tell where you got the o scope

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Still rather have a scope so I can see what's going on:

Portable Arm Nano DSO201 Oscilloscope Mini Storage LCD Digital Pocket Sized Kit | eBay

That's what I have^

 

[brafferty]

Music has different recording levels. Only proper knowlege of one's system and limits is accurate because the bass strength varying from one song from a genre of music is vastly different from genre of music.


So with a cheaper sub, you got that feeling off of only 200 watts in the same car similar box specs?

To be honest man, you are better off going with an 18 with the space you have. I recommend selling the type Rs and box to a local kid for around 250-320 and get a soundqubed HDC3 18 D1. It will definitely give you what you want. In a 6.0-7.5 cubic foot box tuned to 35-40hz with 16-20 sq inches of port area per cubic feet.

HDC3.118 Copper Coil Subwoofer

with the pioneer, i had it in a pre fab box (came with a car i bought) and it ran off of an almanii pa 900.2, and it did seem to have almsot the same amount of pressure, i can see if he is willing to flip boxes so we can hear, i just dont wanna blow his since they can only take 500 rms,