Should I upgrade alt or get a second batt?

[DaveVT 10+ year member]

2008 Civic with stock 120a alt in it. I can do one of two things (too cheap to do both).

A) Buy HO alt (EA quoted like $370 for a 180a which seems insanely high)

B) Batcap 800 or Kinetik HC1400 under the hood and a Kinetik HC1800 in the trunk or equivalent Batcap.

C) Replace just the battery under the hood.

Will probably do the Big3 since I did just buy 100 feet of 0 gauge. Any opinions would be appreciated. I have the funds to go all out but I would prefer to go as low budget as possible while maintaining quality products.

System will consist of 2 12" L7's running off one of these 3 amps:

Sundown SAZ-1500D

Kicker ZX1500.1

PG Tantrum 1200.1

Also, last question. If I only replace the one under the hood should I still run 0 gauge from the batt to the trunk for BOTH power and ground or just power?. If I have a batt in the trunk Should I run 0 for power and ground or does it matter?.

Ive never ran a second battery and ive always chassis grounded the amp. Basically do I run it like this with a second batt or without?

wiringdiagram | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Im confusing myself here....without second battery I use one run and chassis ground. With second batt I run 2 shots of 0 gauge to the second batt from the main then from batt + to amp and from batt - to amp.

Click to read more...

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Honda's have an Electronic Load Detector (ELD) that will turn off your alt to save gas. you have to manually bypass this if you really want an HO alt to do much good.

Honda ELD Bypass: http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1804618&page=1#Post1804618

You need a great main battery for starters, and a second battery will help you maintain 12.5-13V.

Your lights will dim - it's common with Honda's due to the ELD. An ELD bypass and HO alt upgrade can reduce/eliminate dimming.

So you're looking at around 1500W RMS (assuming your impedance load is at the amps minimum rating). A 120A alt is usually sufficient (with Big 3 upgrades and a good battery) for musical playback with your system. Music is dynamic and you'll rarely reach rated RMS output, if ever. If you want to do any SPL competition, you need batteries - plural.

You need only run power wire to the rear battery for most systems. The frame is a better conductor than 1/0. You'd need multiple HO alts before running ground wires made sense. That said, ground location is crucial for high power systems. find a grounding point that has the fewest welds between the battery location and amp ground location.

A good 180A alt in a Civic will be expensive - you don't have a huge frame size to work with in that car.

Might as well replace the main battery to start, and install a volt meter in the cabin so you can monitor voltage. This will also let you watch the ELD work. The volt meter will be a good indication for the need for an HO alt or additional batteries. don't try to fix a problem that doesn't exist yet.

 

[DaveVT 10+ year member]

I plan to use this for music only, no competing. Would you recommend a yellow top or a Kinetik HC1400 for under the hood?. After that if I need it what would be a better upgrade?. The HO alt or the second battery in the rear(Kinetik HC1800)?. I would prefer to just do the Big3 and throw a Kinetik under the hood if I can get away with just those 2 upgrades. Either way though your saying that the ELD bypass is a good idea?.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Kinetik is better than Optima, IMO.

without the ELD bypass, you'll need to closely monitor the voltage and change your listening habits when the ELD is in control.

next upgrade for someone who wants music while driving - i recommend a HO alt before a second battery. you want to maintian 14v, only an alt can do that.

 

[NissanKicker 10+ year member]

Well - I have a 95 Honda Accord LX...

... I was running (4) Treo TSXs on a Kicker KX1200.1 @ .5ohm DAILY

Before I did that Big 3 Install... My lights were giving my HELL! Dimming like there was no tomorrow....

... So I did Big 3 - and ALL dimming disappeared - Until I wanged hard for about 45mins +

So I then changed my front battery from an Interstate EverMaxx to an Optima Yellow Top

... And add another Optima Yellow in the back - And I never dropped below 11.1v ( At full tilt on a stock Alt ).

* NOTE: I ONLY RAN 4GAUGE WIRE THROUGH THE CAR... YOU'RE RUNNING 0/1AWG.... YOU'LL BE FINE. *

... Install the Big 3 first.... If that doesn't make dimming minimal to none - change the front battery - ( you need a battery with good reserve power )

Install a 2nd Battery and that should be the last step - you DON'T HAVE ENOUGH EQUIPMENT FOR AN HO ALT...