Should i replace my plastic 6.5" compontent adaptors with MDF?

[MellowHype 10+ year member]

I have some MDF (3/4") left over from my sub enclosure and ive always wondered whether to replace the current speaker mounts

This is what im currently using

and to be honest i have never been truly happy with my Alpine SPR-60c's, im just wondering if the current adapters could be causing the problem, or maybe theyre just not what i expected.

Im thinking of just duplicating those adaptors, just in MDF either 3/4 or 1/2 inch, depending on how 3/4" sits behind the door card.

appreciate any help!

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[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

If you have the time and materials go for it. I wouldn't do it unless you have the right tools though (i.e. a router and jasper jig). Done correctly with the right gasketing materials I would think the wood would sound better, give a better seal, less vibrations, etc.

But just know at the end of the day the adapters may not have been your limiting factor and it may sound exactly the same.

 

[bradl79 10+ year member]

could u just put some deadener on the plastic adapters, would that help at all

 

[MellowHype 10+ year member]

If you have the time and materials go for it. I wouldn't do it unless you have the right tools though (i.e. a router and jasper jig). Done correctly with the right gasketing materials I would think the wood would sound better, give a better seal, less vibrations, etc.
But just know at the end of the day the adapters may not have been your limiting factor and it may sound exactly the same.

I only have access to a jigsaw, and im not the cleanest cutter lol. I think im going to give it a go and also get a pack of 2mm silent coat door deadening, as i dont want to spend too much and my car could do with less weight, only 80hp lol

 

[MellowHype 10+ year member]

could u just put some deadener on the plastic adapters, would that help at all

there is already deadener behind the plastic, i had them fitted at a shop before so i dont know how good the stuff is but its only deadened around the speaker and plastic

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

I only have access to a jigsaw, and im not the cleanest cutter lol. I think im going to give it a go and also get a pack of 2mm silent coat door deadening, as i dont want to spend too much and my car could do with less weight, only 80hp lol

Hey if you wanna go for it, go for it, it's good practice. Can't really hurt anything (so long as you don't cut any fingers off, haha) and if you don't like the finished product you can just throw the plastic ones back in.

 

[MellowHype 10+ year member]

Hey if you wanna go for it, go for it, it's good practice. Can't really hurt anything (so long as you don't cut any fingers off, haha) and if you don't like the finished product you can just throw the plastic ones back in.

Yeah ill give it a go then, thanks!

Gonna go for a layer of deadener all over the door, then mdf on top, maybe another layer of deadener on the baffle

 

[MellowHype 10+ year member]

went ahead and got some deadener (silent coat 2mm)

Should i aim to cover the speaker mount, outside of the door and the holes and use whats left over to cover any other bits??

this is what my door looks like

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

The deadener you have is a vibration damper, not a sound barrier. You use it to add mass to resonating metal panels, so don't bother trying to cover holes with it. You mainly want to put it on large flat metal pieces, especially if you can 'knock' on them and cause them to resonate.

Don has done more research on this than anyone I've ever talked to so I trust his opinion. Although he can be very difficult to order from (I've emailed him twice in the past and never gotten a response) his research and knowledge is valuable in itself. (And everything he sells can be purchased elsewhere)

Welcome to Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown

 

[MellowHype 10+ year member]

The deadener you have is a vibration damper, not a sound barrier. You use it to add mass to resonating metal panels, so don't bother trying to cover holes with it. You mainly want to put it on large flat metal pieces, especially if you can 'knock' on them and cause them to resonate.

Ohh i thought they all did the same thing?

and ill get through that link at somepoint looks like alot of information!

Thanks

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Ohh i thought they all did the same thing?
and ill get through that link at somepoint looks like alot of information!

Thanks

Almost all car audio "deadener" is just vibration damper. If you're actually looking for a full sound deadening solution you have to use a combination of products. A good sound barrier for blocking unwanted noise is mass loaded vinyl (MLV), it needs to be de-coupled from whatever it's mounted to which is why you usually need some closed cell foam. Then lastly the vibration damper (your deadner) is used to eliminate resonating panels. It's all detailed in that page though, a good read.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

the difficulty is the angle on the plastic adapters needs to be matched exactly. you need an airtight seal between the speaker and the door panel if you expect any midbass response out of the speakers. those giant holes in the doors prevent midbass response. the door panel is the speaker baffle and the seal between the speaker and the panel is vital.

if you decide to make them, getting an angle on the rings will be tricky.

 

[jrdnhsnbrg 10+ year member]

I'm using the stock plastic adapters in my car, put weatherstripping between the speaker and plastic then plastic and door panel. Made a HUGE difference, just sealing off those areas.

 

[MellowHype 10+ year member]

the difficulty is the angle on the plastic adapters needs to be matched exactly. you need an airtight seal between the speaker and the door panel if you expect any midbass response out of the speakers. those giant holes in the doors prevent midbass response. the door panel is the speaker baffle and the seal between the speaker and the panel is vital.
if you decide to make them, getting an angle on the rings will be tricky.

Okay cheers, i definitely dont have the tools to get the baffles accurate enough, so ill stick with the plastics.

So, cover over those large holes and any others, and as much as i can get behind those holes to start with. Then a layer of deadner between the speaker plastic and door, then another between the plastic and component?

 

[calebkhill 10+ year member]

I'm hesitant to post these. This isn't the prettiest way, and these are older pictures from the past, but none the less was very effective and shows you the concept.

This is the way to mount the mid.

Basically foam sandwiched between everything.

Between baffle and door, between baffle and and speaker, between speaker and trim panel.



Here i tried to make a ring around the speaker with foam to close the gap between speaker and trim panel. Not pretty, but it did close the gap. (That's the Exodus Anarchy by the way, great speaker)



This is doors.

Someone above said not to cover holes with defender. Not true...

Deaden the outer door skin (the outside metal door panel. Look through the access holes you'll see the deadener)



Cover and seal access holes with waterproof material. (I used cardboard as you can see. Bad idea. It's not waterproof. I got lucky, i checked the other day after several months and the cardboard is unaffected, still a bad idea)



Then completely deaden.



a lot of knuckle heads here will recommend minimal coverage of deadening, but your best results come from 100% coverage.

Then for fun.