Should I buy this Stiner SP1000 off craigslist?

dgaf
10+ year member

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BATTERY and AMPS

I texted the guy, asked a little about it. He said it's used, but barely, so he claims.

I'm in the market for a battery to go in the trunk. He lives about 40 minutes from me. If I go over there to check it out, what should the voltage read so I know if I should pick it up or not?

 
Thanks, didn't think about that. Works out perfect too, there's a autozone right next to where he said he lives.

 
^ But if I take it to autozone and they test it, they should be able to tell if it's good or not, right?

I just called autozone, and asked them what they do when they test it, and told them what it was I had and what I was looking for. The guy said he will check the voltage without a load, then put a load on it, and check the voltage again, and will be able to tell if it's good, weak, or bad.

Is this the best way to go about getting it checked out?

 
^ But if I take it to autozone and they test it, they should be able to tell if it's good or not, right?
I just called autozone, and asked them what they do when they test it, and told them what it was I had and what I was looking for. The guy said he will check the voltage without a load, then put a load on it, and check the voltage again, and will be able to tell if it's good, weak, or bad.

Is this the best way to go about getting it checked out?
No it isn't a good way, they will put a 25a load to it and see what it does. You will be using the battery for car audio, one of the most stressful activities a battery can be used for. You need a real load test for example..

Load testing a Kinetik 2000 :

Put 306 amps to it for 10 seconds straight...If it drops below 9v it's garbage.

The autozone load test is garbage, it's some computer deal, you need a real load tester for car audio stuff that battery will need to be able to take serious current draw to be worth a ****.

Take it to a battery recycling type retailer like Battery Giant, Batteries Plus etc...they run a free real diagnostic.

 
^ Hm, alright.

I'll look around the area and see if there's a batteries plus around there, and give them a call to see what they can do.

Thanks

 
Yea, don't care about the amp, only interested in the battery.

I called batteries plus, there's one about 7 minutes from where the kid lives.

They said they do a "cold cranking amp test" he said they will put a load on it (doesn't know how much of a load) and see how many amps it puts out.

Is this what I want?

Is it even worth it?

I'm gunna be running about 1200watts to sub and speakers.

or should I just buy a new kinetik (800, 1200, or 1400)?

 
Yea, don't care about the amp, only interested in the battery.
I called batteries plus, there's one about 7 minutes from where the kid lives.

They said they do a "cold cranking amp test" he said they will put a load on it (doesn't know how much of a load) and see how many amps it puts out.

Is this what I want?

Is it even worth it?

I'm gunna be running about 1200watts to sub and speakers.

or should I just buy a new kinetik (800, 1200, or 1400)?
1200 watt total...An all stock electrical system will be just fine. Put the biggest Optima yellow or blue top -- that will fit -- in your stock starter battery spot.

Extra batteries are for when your system will be pulling much much more current than the alternator could accommodate e.g. 12000 watts rms Vs. 20 second bursts.

You don't need 2 batteries for 1200 watts. You get a nice Deep cycle battery for under the hood, now if you go past 2,000w rms you upgrade the alternator to maybe 200a+ before you do anything with batteries.

A batteries job is to pick up where the alt leaves off..If your amp is pulling 100 amps and your alt has 75 in it, you battery compensates for the 25a the alt can't fill.

If you have 4 x 300a alts and your amp only pulls 1000a your batteries do nothing but smooth the voltage as a buffer from the alt to the amp.

Kinetiks are overpriced for your purposes. Optima >

 
1200 watt total...An all stock electrical system will be just fine. Put the biggest Optima yellow or blue top -- that will fit -- in your stock starter battery spot.
Extra batteries are for when your system will be pulling much much more current than the alternator could accommodate e.g. 12000 watts rms Vs. 20 second bursts.

You don't need 2 batteries for 1200 watts. You get a nice Deep cycle battery for under the hood, now if you go past 2,000w rms you upgrade the alternator to maybe 200a+ before you do anything with batteries.

A batteries job is to pick up where the alt leaves off..If your amp is pulling 100 amps and your alt has 75 in it, you battery compensates for the 25a the alt can't fill.

If you have 4 x 300a alts and your amp only pulls 1000a your batteries do nothing but smooth the voltage as a buffer from the alt to the amp.
No, no, and no. Your battery does not compensate, if you try to draw more current than your alternator can produce your voltage will drop to the batteries resting voltage. If the system voltage is higher than the battery resting voltage (i.e. 14.4V vs. only 12V) then ALL of the power will be coming from the alt. If your voltage drops then the battery will start outputting current but this is highly undesirable considering how much of a strain it puts on the alternator. You'll burn up your alt very quickly doing that. 1200w is a lot to put on a stock electrical system, I wouldn't run over 1000 without upgrading my alt first.

 
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