Featured SEVIC SBL0203MP4 wiring help

D_T4m4s

CarAudio.com Newbie
Hey all,
I got this head unit from a friend of mine. I cut off a 16 pin connector from a PC power supply to try to see if it works but I can't really figure out the wiring diagrams. It has 2 different diagrams; one in its manual and one on the top of the unit.
I'd like to know which pin is the constant 12V, the switched 12V and the ground.
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I cut off a 16 pin connector from a PC power supply to try to see if it works but I can't really figure out the wiring diagrams. It has 2 different diagrams; one in its manual and one on the top of the unit.
I'd like to know which pin is the constant 12V, the switched 12V and the ground.
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Do you no longer posses this harness? Follow the diagram on the unit.
 
And the adapter for the car you have now? You'll be matching that wiring harness to that head unit. Swapping radios. Color to color. If some wire varies in color find out which ones are the power wires, then find out which are the speaker wires. On the adapter. It doesn't really matter just as long you get the adapter correct. Just line up the power wires correctly. And it will work. Speaker wires will work. the correct power supply is the main concern. Count the millivolts to the radio now? How much will the car supply? Is it enough? 8.4 volts minimum for a basic head unit to turn it on. It's a op amp and a voltage amplifier. So at least about 8.4 volts total power supply needed for the radio to operate. Does your car have a air conditioner? That comes from the radio to the air conditioner to power it. But at least the minimum power for it to function.​
 
And the adapter for the car you have now? You'll be matching that wiring harness to that head unit. Swapping radios. Color to color. If some wire varies in color find out which ones are the power wires, then find out which are the speaker wires. On the adapter. It doesn't really matter just as long you get the adapter correct. Just line up the power wires correctly. And it will work. Speaker wires will work. the correct power supply is the main concern. Count the millivolts to the radio now? How much will the car supply? Is it enough? 8.4 volts minimum for a basic head unit to turn it on. It's a op amp and a voltage amplifier. So at least about 8.4 volts total power supply needed for the radio to operate. Does your car have a air conditioner? That comes from the radio to the air conditioner to power it. But at least the minimum power for it to function.​
I have a charged 12V car battery that I can use to power the unit with but I don't know where to connect it.
I din't have an adapter for this SEVIC head unit, and I couldn't find one online either. I only have an ISO - Sony 16-pin adapter for my current unit I'm using in my car.
I only want to know which pin should I connect the +12V and the - from the battery to.

This is the one I cut off from a PSU, It has 3 orange wires, 7 blacks, and 2 reds.
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The previous car then didn't use coloring codes. The radio you want to add to your car is that. 3 orange, 7 black, and 2 red. All of them carry the same milivolts. I see also blue, green, gray, and maroon. 16 wires total. My guess they could not get the correct color for each specific function, so they use this. Draw every thing out. Label it with paper and tape. RF, LF, RR, LR speaker wires. + and -. Then from your radio harness, connect it to the car adapter you have now. If you have no adapter, cut your wiring mate and label all of it. Match those to the assumed slots you want your power wires to be on the radio and where the speaker + and - wires are should be. Organize the wires then on the radio harness. 12 volts. Then label it. With paper. Then solder it together radio to factory side. Mating two wiring sides. Factory and radio.

Basic functions to the radio? Or take away some functions. The functions you want will determine how much wires you will need. An example, does the car now you want to add it to, have air conditioner. If yes, then take that into account. Air conditioner to the radio. Power supply.​
 
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The previous car then didn't use coloring codes. The radio you want to add to your car is that. 3 orange, 7 black, and 2 red. All of them carry the same milivolts. I see also blue, green, gray, and maroon. 16 wires total. My guess they could not get the correct color for each specific function, so they use this. Draw every thing out. Label it with paper and tape. RF, LF, RR, LR speaker wires. + and -. Then from your radio harness, connect it to the car adapter you have now. If you have no adapter, cut your wiring mate and label all of it. Match those to the assumed slots you want your power wires to be on the radio and where the speaker + and - wires are should be. Organize the wires then on the radio harness. 12 volts. Then label it. With paper. Then solder it together radio to factory side. Mating two wiring sides. Factory and radio.

Basic functions to the radio? Or take away some functions. The functions you want will determine how much wires you will need. An example, does the car now you want to add it to, have air conditioner. If yes, then take that into account. Air conditioner to the radio. Power supply.​
I don't want to connect it to the radio harness in my car, I just want to test it with a battery.
I can't label the wires until I know which one is which
 
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Great. I'm sure it will work. 12 volts to power the radio. But then the functions to the radio is...name all of them. Then decide how much watts this will consume. From there, power wires red, black, yellow, blue, power antenna, is needed. Set those separately. Then the speaker wires. It would be nice to label it. Or go to a craft shop and buy paint. Paint the wires yourself to color code it. But great! The pin slots you mean? You can use any pin slots for anything. These are OP AMP circuits. Built that way. The car I worked on is a 2000 Chevrolet LS 4 doors sedan. It came with 4 speaker wires and 9 power wires. Speakers 2 front. Just under 4 ohms. But that is how I know you can use any pin slots to the op amp circuits. Just get the correct adapter.
 
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Do not pay any attention to Mitchell! He has been on this site for months now and he has yet to give a single right answer to any question. We have been trying to figure out if he is stupid, drunk or trolling. I believe it’s all of the above .
 
If you absolutely can’t find any wiring documentation for this, you may need to open the covers to have a look / measure resistance with an ohm meter and such.

Forget about the wire color completely at this point.

The ground / 12v / ACC wires are usually 3 pins clustered together, not always, but often is, so when you find the ground, the other two are right near by. So your main focus is finding the ground, 12v+ wire, and ACC wire, that's it at this point. Once you get it powered on, the rest is much easier.

The ground wire is usually easy to figure out as it will be tied to the radio chassis and an ohm meter will show this pretty easily. So that one is usually very easy to mark with tape.

The 12v+ wire often connects to a big diode, so internally, can use an ohm meter to see which pin does this. May even connect through an inductor coil, but test it the same. The diode is for reverse protection in case it gets hooked up backwards, a lot of 12v electronics had this, and it connects across the ground wire and 12v wire on the PCB internally. If this is the same for that unit, you would then know ground and 12v+ wires.

If you can find those two main wires, you are left with the ACC wire which is needed to turn it on. This wire is almost always right next to the 12v+ power wire.

Once you get it power4ed on, the speaker wires are easy to figure out, same with remote output wire, and power antenna wire if equipped.

I had to do this with a couple cheap car stereos many years ago and is how I did it. I opened it up to help not connect 12v to the wrong wires. Finding the stereos chip-amp IC model also can help as it has a pinout and will show where the traces route to the speaker wire pins (assuming it is not some obscure chip, and datasheet is available).

Power up testing through an old car taillight bulb for current limiting. If you get it wrong and connect directly to a car battery it will go up in smoke pretty fast, the smaller 12v light bulb(s) in the 12v+ wires limit the current to minimize frying it accidentally. Without having it here I can’t say for sure, but finding what pin does what is doable, but might not be able to explain it well, and perhaps that radio might make it more difficult also, not sure. If what I typed here doesn't make sense, you might not be able to figure it out.

And of course if you do have to open it up, can trace the connector pins on the PC board to see where they go and cross reference the 12v input to IC chips / regulators and such, although not easy if you have never done that sort of thing.
 
Do not pay any attention to Mitchell! He has been on this site for months now and he has yet to give a single right answer to any question. We have been trying to figure out if he is stupid, drunk or trolling. I believe it’s all of the above .
How is it that members still don’t see it’s altered profile and believe everything it says lol… trying to think of another way to get the point across not to trust it.
 
If you absolutely can’t find any wiring documentation for this, you may need to open the covers to have a look / measure resistance with an ohm meter and such.

Forget about the wire color completely at this point.

The ground / 12v / ACC wires are usually 3 pins clustered together, not always, but often is, so when you find the ground, the other two are right near by. So your main focus is finding the ground, 12v+ wire, and ACC wire, that's it at this point. Once you get it powered on, the rest is much easier.

The ground wire is usually easy to figure out as it will be tied to the radio chassis and an ohm meter will show this pretty easily. So that one is usually very easy to mark with tape.

The 12v+ wire often connects to a big diode, so internally, can use an ohm meter to see which pin does this. May even connect through an inductor coil, but test it the same. The diode is for reverse protection in case it gets hooked up backwards, a lot of 12v electronics had this, and it connects across the ground wire and 12v wire on the PCB internally. If this is the same for that unit, you would then know ground and 12v+ wires.

If you can find those two main wires, you are left with the ACC wire which is needed to turn it on. This wire is almost always right next to the 12v+ power wire.

Once you get it power4ed on, the speaker wires are easy to figure out, same with remote output wire, and power antenna wire if equipped.

I had to do this with a couple cheap car stereos many years ago and is how I did it. I opened it up to help not connect 12v to the wrong wires. Finding the stereos chip-amp IC model also can help as it has a pinout and will show where the traces route to the speaker wire pins (assuming it is not some obscure chip, and datasheet is available).

Power up testing through an old car taillight bulb for current limiting. If you get it wrong and connect directly to a car battery it will go up in smoke pretty fast, the smaller 12v light bulb(s) in the 12v+ wires limit the current to minimize frying it accidentally. Without having it here I can’t say for sure, but finding what pin does what is doable, but might not be able to explain it well, and perhaps that radio might make it more difficult also, not sure. If what I typed here doesn't make sense, you might not be able to figure it out.

And of course if you do have to open it up, can trace the connector pins on the PC board to see where they go and cross reference the 12v input to IC chips / regulators and such, although not easy if you have never done that sort of thing.
Here is the connector from the inside.
I'm currently looking for my multimeter, I don't know where I left it before :D
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You only need to disassemble the whole unitView attachment 62350
Well that does help at least, now you know the ground, 12v+ and ACC wire, so you can power the stereo on.

I was typing a response telling how to use that big diode and inductor / ohm meter to find the 12v wire, but being printed on the board makes no need for that. At any rate, once you get it powered on, a volt meter will be handy to find the power antenna and remote turn on wires (12v output when stereo / radio on), and then can carefully try to test for AC output for speaker wires playing a music / test tone if available. Or find the chip-amp IC and see if you can find its part number to see its pin-out, then follow the speaker outputs to the correct pins, it's already pretty far disassembled.
 
Well that does help at least, now you know the ground, 12v+ and ACC wire, so you can power the stereo on.

I was typing a response telling how to use that big diode and inductor / ohm meter to find the 12v wire, but being printed on the board makes no need for that. At any rate, once you get it powered on, a volt meter will be handy to find the power antenna and remote turn on wires (12v output when stereo / radio on), and then can carefully try to test for AC output for speaker wires playing a music / test tone if available. Or find the chip-amp IC and see if you can find its part number to see its pin-out, then follow the speaker outputs to the correct pins, it's already pretty far disassembled.
Well I couldn't find my multimeter, so I made a test light and this is what I found out...
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So there are 11 grounds... and If I connect one wire from the light to the "BATT-" labeled solder point on the board and connect the other to one of the pins I marked with a blue minus which are the grounds, something clicks on the board, and the bulb lights up slowly...
And If I connect one wire to the "BATT+" and the other wire to the "BATT-" the light turns on so I guess there is a short somewhere...
 
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D_T4m4s

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