Setting gains with voltmeter=useless for music?

Turbo Travis
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I've been out of the car audio scene for a long time, but recently picked up a used 1000/1 and 13w7 for a great price...

I installed it, and initally set the gains via JL's method (test tone, voltage, etc). The problem is, is that with actual music (I listen to mostly hard rock), the woofer was barley moving at all. Long story short, I just ended up setting it by ear, and I can play it hard for several songs with no warmth on the center of the woofer (no dustcap on the w7s).

I'd like to think it's safe? The gain is nearly all the way up, with no bass boost whatsoever. The deck is supposed to be 4V output, but I'm almost positive that's only with the sub output set to 6 (currently on 0)...

 
You should have a decent amount of output with the w7. What kind of box do you have?

You could also try setting it by ear. Play the test tone that you used before and configure all of your setting the same way - but leave the driver plugged in. Start with gains at zero and slowly increase them until you just start to hear distortion, and turn it back until you don't hear it anymore.

This method isn't as precise as setting it with a DMM, but it's close. If you end up setting it much higher than before, you know you messed up your calculations.

 
You should have a decent amount of output with the w7. What kind of box do you have?
You could also try setting it by ear. Play the test tone that you used before and configure all of your setting the same way - but leave the driver plugged in. Start with gains at zero and slowly increase them until you just start to hear distortion, and turn it back until you don't hear it anymore.

This method isn't as precise as setting it with a DMM, but it's close. If you end up setting it much higher than before, you know you messed up your calculations.
It's sealed. What's happening (I believe) is that the test tone is MUCH louder then the bass in actual music, so trying to set the gains with the test tone only applys to low frequencies recorded at 0DB. Right now I can crank it up loud with a bass heavy rock song, open the trunk and the woofer still sounds great, so I think I am fine.

 
I would recheck your multimeter first. Setting by ear does work, but I just feel safer using equipment over my own ears...just my opinion though.
The meter is fine (checked it on a wall). I just think that the bass in most of the rock CDs that I listen to are recorded at a much lower level then a 0DB test tone. I've always had good luck in the past by ensuring that the dust cap is cool, or very slightly warm after a long, hard pounding (I know that didnt sound right, ha).

 
The meter is fine (checked it on a wall). I just think that the bass in most of the rock CDs that I listen to are recorded at a much lower level then a 0DB test tone. I've always had good luck in the past by ensuring that the dust cap is cool, or very slightly warm after a long, hard pounding (I know that didnt sound right, ha).
Have you looked at your crossovers as well? I've always had better luck at reproducing rock bass with mids and 8's that could handle a higher hz than a substage.

 
Did you use a 0dB test tone? If so very little music actually has bass that is recorded at that level. Especially rock.

When I do set the amps by test tones, I always use -3dB tones and only use it as a guideline. After that I'll set it by ear around that general area //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif.

 
I think something to remember too is that music is dynamic. You really only hit your max point for brief moments. If anything, setting the system using this method is a conservative way of protecting the equipment.

I've always done it this way and I have yet to damage any of my equipment. Now, I have most likely not gotten every last DB out of my system by doing it this way, but there are other options for loud (ported, bigger amp etc)

 
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Turbo Travis

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