screws coming out of box

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

wat do you do if the holes you are using are worn out and not catching the wood anymore then wat can u use, and say for my subs the l7's the holes are all the same spot and cant change them

 

[PhatTonyDeMarco 5,000+ posts]

What do you mean you cant get them to counter sink? If you are screwing them in to your sub then they can not countersink. How is it possible for them to spin out when the subs are firing up? You should have no problems here, unless you are reusing old holes.

wat do you do if the holes you are using are worn out and not catching the wood anymore then wat can u use, and say for my subs the l7's the holes are all the same spot and cant change them

Make a baffle ring to go under the subs.

 

[MasterOfAllBass 10+ year member]

What do you mean you cant get them to counter sink? If you are screwing them in to your sub then they can not countersink. How is it possible for them to spin out when the subs are firing up? You should have no problems here, unless you are reusing old holes.


Make a baffle ring to go under the subs.

no i mean they dont have any hold and the scews spin when ther all the way down to the frame of the sub. just no hold every time i try a new spot.

 

[PhatTonyDeMarco 5,000+ posts]

That doesn't make any sense, man. Take a pic of the screws you are using, sounds like they are fine threaded.

Are you predrilling? You might be using too large of a bit if you are.

 

[MasterOfAllBass 10+ year member]

That doesn't make any sense, man. Take a pic of the screws you are using, sounds like they are fine threaded.
Are you predrilling? You might be using too large of a bit if you are.

no predrilling. i did that on my 1th one and i used a small bit

 

[cshaw 10+ year member]

maybe your sub cut out is slightly to big and your screws are only grabing half of the wood, i saw some marks on the side of the cutout. if not, double baffle ftw. with 2 inch screws like your using, there is no way a 2 inch screw will come out of 1.5 inches of wood.

 

[MasterOfAllBass 10+ year member]

maybe your sub cut out is slightly to big and your screws are only grabing half of the wood, i saw some marks on the side of the cutout. if not, double baffle ftw. with 2 inch screws like your using, there is no way a 2 inch screw will come out of 1.5 inches of wood.

na that cut out is small where i put the subs in and theres no wiggle room. i pulled the sub out and the screw is not coming out the side of the wood

 

[skittlesRgood 10+ year member]

if you dont predrill then the screws will strip out easily. you gotta predrill. use a bit thats the same size as the screw - threads. however i have had a problem with the screw pulling out with my subs after a while. use tnuts!! they work great and will not pull out. i wont ever use anything other than tnuts now.

 

[IDSkoT 5,000+ posts]

if you dont predrill then the screws will strip out easily. you gotta predrill. use a bit thats the same size as the screw - threads. however i have had a problem with the screw pulling out with my subs after a while. use tnuts!! they work great and will not pull out. i wont ever use anything other than tnuts now.

I agree, and at the same time I disagree.

You have to pre-drill.

But use a bit that's 1/2 the size of the screw so it can still have some pressure. You never want to pre-drill the same size as the screw. Then it's just the threads that's holding the whole weight of your sub rather than the wood pushing up against the screw.

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

iv used wood and coarse thread drywall and they both fail. i can never get it to counter sink they just keep spining everytime. no matter what i do

I've never has a single issue with coarse thread drywall screws...I use them for box building and for the subs. I've taken subs out and remounted them at least a dozen times using the same holes and have never had a problem...had the subs firing up and forward, too.

are you sure your screws look like this?: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21-1cYnP2oL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

 

[david in german 10+ year member]

Try "not over torquing them" and x2 on the double baffle. Tighten untill snug but then stop, if you are using a drill to put them in then you are using too much force and that is just like using your screws like a drillbit.

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

Try "not over torquing them".

I forgot to mention that...my drill has torque settings from 1-25, I put it on level 5 and it gets them nice and snug without being too tight.

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

glue wood blocks inside the box were the new holes will be, so you have 1 1/2" of wood to bite into. Pre drill with a 3/32" bit, and DON'T over tighten them.

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

wat do you do if the holes you are using are worn out and not catching the wood anymore then wat can u use, and say for my subs the l7's the holes are all the same spot and cant change them

If the holes aren't too big then glue some toothpicks in the holes and snap them off flush once the glue is dry.

Otherwise drill out the holes and glue in some pieces of dowel rod.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

If the holes aren't too big then glue some toothpicks in the holes and snap them off flush once the glue is dry.

Golf tees work great for this.

T-nuts or Hurricane nuts are the way to go. And whoever is using drywall screws to mount their subs; GHETTO. Use the correct screws. If you're not going to use t-nuts at least use sheetmetal screws. The screws should have a flat back on the head. Otherwise you're going to pucker the mounting flange on whatever you're mounting. The flat backed screws spread the load out and won't damage whatever you're attaching and are less likely to come loose.

As for predrilling, you have to do it. You want a bit just a tiny bit smaller than the shaft of the screw. Go too big and the threads don't have much to grab and are more likely to strip. Go too small and you'll split the mounting area and you'll have stripped screw holes and a weaker mounting area. None of these are issues with t-nuts of course.