Just because he shows how he set up his gear through that crossover doesn’t mean that’s how you would set up your gear through that crossover. It would be different. You would have to know crossover points and stuff like that. It takes experience to tune an active crossover and calculating specs to set on the crossover. It seems simple but isn’t and can take a good set up and make it sound like **** if you don’t know what you’re doing. Start off with components. Just get components dude. You will be way happier. For your price range go with hertz components. But like I said, crossovers on components are already set perfectly for the tweeters and drivers they come with and I don’t see why you should complicate anything with buying the tweeters, drivers and crossover(s) separately. Don’t go active. I run components and maybe one day I’ll run active but I’ve never owned one and have been happy with my components. They sound good and the line between good with passive and great with active is so thin. So no need to cross it if you are almost there and still sounding good. Too much complications and risk.
so if i go active, i dont need a dsp since my deck has the option, but i do need a capacitor on the tweeters correct. But if i want to get the most out of the system, I should get an aftermarket dsp? I know its simpler just to go passive and the install is pretty much straight forward, However, those scanspeak drivers and a jl twk 88 dsp sounds mighty temping. Jl twk seems to be more user friendly
He is not talking about his head unit though. I was talking about crossovers. For drivers and tweeters you need crossovers. Now for coaxials then u can run just the 13 band EQ on a standard head unit. But coaxials don’t reliever good sound quality compared to components With tweeters and extra drivers, mid range, full range and or mid bass. Depending on your set up.
U need a crossover. Passive or active. Go with components or learn how to use active. It’s best for a beginner or intermediate to go with components with passives. U don’t need that dsp. Just get components that come with passive crossovers. Or take a big chance and buy mid range drives, all the same size and tweeters the same size of corse and run active an active crossover. But if I were u, I wouldn’t run active. And u don’t need a dsp.
The 13 band EQ and filters in his head unit would be ok for coaxials but not real speakers and tweeters. An external crossover(s) is needed. Bass blockers (capacitors) on the tweeters is cool for filtering the tweeters but what is he gonna do about the mids. HE NEEDS A CROSSOVER OR CROSSOVERS. The head unit won’t do the whole job.
If you want to go active that head would be a good starting point. If you go with the scanspeak tweeters there should be a spec for fs whatever it is double it. That’ll be the lowest you want to crossover at. So if it has a fs of 800 don’t go below 1600hz with a 24db slope and you’ll be fine. Doubt you’ll end up going that low anyway with those mids.
he would be fine with just the head unit if he didn’t have tweeters. That creates 6 drivers now and 4 must be wire in parallel or series or through a passive crossover. simply wiring them in parallel or series with a capacitor for the tweeter still won’t give him full control over the frequencies going to his front channels without crossover. The front channels only will believe there is one driver per channel when actually there are a driver and a tweeter. There is no way to set that stereo to split and crossover the frequencies. So he just wants to use a capacitor to block the low frequencies to his tweeters but still that doesn’t yield that much control over the frequencies. He will need a crossover to crossover between his front drivers and tweeters. Not even the best stereo can split frequencies on one channel. That’s where a crossover comes into play.
All he needs to do is run components that come with drivers, tweeters and crossovers. That can be done with any head unit or amp. I don’t understand what you are getting at. The guy needs crossovers.
