Sound system advice for 2004 es330

[ogloc.1574]

2004 lexus es330
Originally had a Mark Levinson sound system with factorh front tweeters, 4 door speakers, 8” mark levinson Deck subwoofer. This is a long term beater for me i drive it a lot and plan to keep it till it bites the dust.
Current setup (Goal is loud accurate bass without compromising quality):
H/U: Kenwood excelon ddx3
Tweeters: Aftermarket (will update with size/brand soon if needed)
Door speakers (all 4): Kenwood Excelon kfcx173 6.5 or 6.75 2 way coaxial (got system set up in 2015 cant remember but will update) hooked up to kenwood excelon x302-4 class d 4 channel amp
Subwoofer: 12” Kicker CompVR ported box hooked to a kicker cx300.1 (mark levinson is turned off)
Sound Deadening/rattle fix: front doors, trunk, and license plate dampened, stuffed foam between rear deck light and windshield


Had this setup installed professionally in 2015. I had the speakers hooked to the head unit (giving 22 watt rms to each speaker). Added the amplifier last week and it made a huge difference.
My questions are:
Should I replace the 8” deck sub with another 8” subwoofer, or an 8”midrange, or leave it? (Will dynamat the deck as well if it happens) Here is the midrange i was looking at: https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_575PPS48/Rockford-Fosgate-PPS4-8.html

Based on the previous answer should i switch to a more powerful 12” or 15” rockford fosgate power series subwoofer; two 12” kicker comp Q series, or two 12” rockford fosgate punch p3? Open to other subwoofer suggestions as well!

Click to read more...

 

[BCotrell]

Info you asked for:
too many good woofers out there on all budget spectrums beside kicker and rockford. What monoblock you got now and what’s your total budget dedicated to improving your soundstage. State total doll hairs becuase the recommendation could be more than just a new sub (different amp, new enclosure, etc)

The 8 Subwoofer in the deck Swapped for a dedicated midbass could work but keep in mind that you’ll need probably double the power per speaker that you’d send to a typical midrange speaker and you’ll need dedicated tuning to that amp channel (to keep it in that 80-400hz range). Plus that rockford May not give you great midbass in a infinite baffle secenario. You’ll likely need to build an enclosure behind that midbass 8

what tweeter did you use? For imaging purposes might consider consolidating all those speakers for a front component set with higher power handling capabilities and brige that four channel.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

take out the factory sub completely. Multiple different woofers in a car would destroy your accurate bass goals. cancellation hell with horrible phase and group delay equals sloppy garbage bass. Also you'll have a means to letting the bass into your cabin so it should improve output slightly.

You'll need to tell us what is missing currently why do you want to change it, what parts of what songs annoy you.

 

[ogloc.1574]

Info you asked for:
too many good woofers out there on all budget spectrums beside kicker and rockford. What monoblock you got now and what’s your total budget dedicated to improving your soundstage. State total doll hairs becuase the recommendation could be more than just a new sub (different amp, new enclosure, etc)

The 8 Subwoofer in the deck Swapped for a dedicated midbass could work but keep in mind that you’ll need probably double the power per speaker that you’d send to a typical midrange speaker and you’ll need dedicated tuning to that amp channel (to keep it in that 80-400hz range). Plus that rockford May not give you great midbass in a infinite baffle secenario. You’ll likely need to build an enclosure behind that midbass 8

what tweeter did you use? For imaging purposes might consider consolidating all those speakers for a front component set with higher power handling capabilities and brige that four channel.

I updated some information.

Budget-wise its not too big of a deal for me i can always do something with the subwoofer and speakers once i take them out.


So im mosty lacking midbass and I would see if i would want to really upgrade the subwoofer but i think i most likely will. I want loud, deep yet punchy and accurate bass . Not so much power as to produce glass shattering bass and i dont want to go as far as to upgrade the electrical system.

What is your recommendation for the subwoofer?

Would i have to make a floating box under the deck for the midbass?

For the front youre saying get two way components? Should i leave the rear speakers? Would my current speaker amp be good for that?

 

[BCotrell]

A better than average comp set should give you solid base response up front. You would be best sound treating your front doors are the same time. You can leave your rears on the headunit power.

what model is your current sub amp? Is your box made to the specs of the sub?

 

[ogloc.1574]

take out the factory sub completely. Multiple different woofers in a car would destroy your accurate bass goals. cancellation hell with horrible phase and group delay equals sloppy garbage bass. Also you'll have a means to letting the bass into your cabin so it should improve output slightly.

You'll need to tell us what is missing currently why do you want to change it, what parts of what songs annoy you.

need better midrange

A better than average comp set should give you solid base response up front. You would be best sound treating your front doors are the same time. You can leave your rears on the headunit power.

what model is your current sub amp? Is your box made to the specs of the sub?

Its in the thread. Subwoofer is 12 that can handle 400 rms 800 peak

Amp is kicker momo cx300.1

KICKER | CX300.1 Amplifier

KICKER produces high-performance car audio, vehicle specific solutions, marine audio, home and personal audio, and power sports products since 1973.

www.kicker.com

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

need better midrange


Its in the thread. Subwoofer is 12 that can handle 400 rms 800 peak

Amp is kicker momo cx300.1

KICKER | CX300.1 Amplifier

KICKER produces high-performance car audio, vehicle specific solutions, marine audio, home and personal audio, and power sports products since 1973.

www.kicker.com

swap your door speakers out. Coaxials are horrible in general. Use components, quality ones. If you had a network active crossover capabilities with your head unit, you can get some really good results but kenwoods dont have that capability unless its the 2020 models.

Throwing an 8 inch mid in the rear will just mess up your sound stage and imaging. Also do you go to a concert and watch it with your back facing the stage? Anything rear should never be a focus. All your power and budget needs to go to the front speakers. Most setups nowadays are ran with a raw mid and tweet each getting their own amplifier channels separately, the whole front stage is taking up the 4 channel. Leaving the rear on head unit power and the head unit will handle all the crossover functions to have a perfect blend between mid and tweet and you can adjust the time delay from each mid and tweet which builds a perfect soundstage aka a live studio performance on your dash where you can see every instrument through sound with vocalist dead center. Its how you get 100% out of your speakers. with normal components and coaxials you never get a good blend between mid and tweeter because the crossover points chosen by the factory does not match well with the acoustics your particular vehicle and you'll always get below average results and buying speakers left and right is like buying a scratch lottery ticket. While going active, the setup i described earlier gets you perfect results every time with a proper tune.

As for your sub. You need more power first before thinking about getting more subs that require more power just to get as loud as you currently are. Higher RMs subs dont mean louder, it means they need more power to get louder.

 

[ogloc.1574]

swap your door speakers out. Coaxials are horrible in general. Use components, quality ones. If you had a network active crossover capabilities with your head unit, you can get some really good results but kenwoods dont have that capability unless its the 2020 models.

Throwing an 8 inch mid in the rear will just mess up your sound stage and imaging. Also do you go to a concert and watch it with your back facing the stage? Anything rear should never be a focus. All your power and budget needs to go to the front speakers. Most setups nowadays are ran with a raw mid and tweet each getting their own amplifier channels separately, the whole front stage is taking up the 4 channel. Leaving the rear on head unit power and the head unit will handle all the crossover functions to have a perfect blend between mid and tweet and you can adjust the time delay from each mid and tweet which builds a perfect soundstage aka a live studio performance on your dash where you can see every instrument through sound with vocalist dead center. Its how you get 100% out of your speakers. with normal components and coaxials you never get a good blend between mid and tweeter because the crossover points chosen by the factory does not match well with the acoustics your particular vehicle and you'll always get below average results and buying speakers left and right is like buying a scratch lottery ticket. While going active, the setup i described earlier gets you perfect results every time with a proper tune.

As for your sub. You need more power first before thinking about getting more subs that require more power just to get as loud as you currently are. Higher RMs subs dont mean louder, it means they need more power to get louder.

So basically get front components and forget the midrange? Thinking maybe jl c5 or comparable focal.

im considering selling the subwoofer and amp since they are old and replacing. If you say just one subwoofer is good would you reccommend 12” or 15”? Also what brand/model would you recommend

 

[ogloc.1574]

A better than average comp set should give you solid base response up front. You would be best sound treating your front doors are the same time. You can leave your rears on the headunit power.

what model is your current sub amp? Is your box made to the specs of the sub?

Thinking of doing the front component and hooking it to the amp and rear speakers to my aftermarket head unit.

Would these speakers and my current amp work together?: https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_575T4652S/Rockford-Fosgate-T-4652-S.html

Kenwood Excelon X302-4

X Series 4-channel car amplifier — 50 watts RMS x 4

www.crutchfield.ca

if i do make this change do i keep the same rear speakers or switch for these:

Rockford Fosgate T1650

Power Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers

www.crutchfield.ca

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thinking of doing the front component and hooking it to the amp and rear speakers to my aftermarket head unit.

Would these speakers and my current amp work together?: https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_575T4652S/Rockford-Fosgate-T-4652-S.html

Kenwood Excelon X302-4

X Series 4-channel car amplifier — 50 watts RMS x 4

www.crutchfield.ca

if i do make this change do i keep the same rear speakers or switch for these:

Rockford Fosgate T1650

Power Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers

www.crutchfield.ca

Skip c5s. Leave the rear on head unit power. Bridge into 2 channel mode your current kenwood to the front components. Now you dont have to buy a new 4 channel.
For subwoofers if you want simple with accuracy and decent output, two dayton HO 12s in a sealed box on a 2000 rms amp would do pretty well. If you want to go ported with stronger low end response with the same accuracy as your current sub but like way more output, a single sundown sa 15 on a 1000- 1200 rms amp would do great but youd want a custom ported box which will be costly. The box makes or breaks the setup when it comes to ported. The dayton HO I recommended is on par to a JL w6 performance at a fraction of the price and you can buy and premade sealed box for two 12s and be fine. You can also do a single dayton ho 15 sealed as well if you want to keep your amp cost down low with 1000 rms.

 

[ogloc.1574]

Skip c5s. Leave the rear on head unit power. Bridge into 2 channel mode your current kenwood to the front components. Now you dont have to buy a new 4 channel.
For subwoofers if you want simple with accuracy and decent output, two dayton HO 12s in a sealed box on a 2000 rms amp would do pretty well. If you want to go ported with stronger low end response with the same accuracy as your current sub but like way more output, a single sundown sa 15 on a 1000- 1200 rms amp would do great but youd want a custom ported box which will be costly. The box makes or breaks the setup when it comes to ported. The dayton HO I recommended is on par to a JL w6 performance at a fraction of the price and you can buy and premade sealed box for two 12s and be fine. You can also do a single dayton ho 15 sealed as well if you want to keep your amp cost down low with 1000 rms.

So just gotta. Gan

Skip c5s. Leave the rear on head unit power. Bridge into 2 channel mode your current kenwood to the front components. Now you dont have to buy a new 4 channel.
For subwoofers if you want simple with accuracy and decent output, two dayton HO 12s in a sealed box on a 2000 rms amp would do pretty well. If you want to go ported with stronger low end response with the same accuracy as your current sub but like way more output, a single sundown sa 15 on a 1000- 1200 rms amp would do great but youd want a custom ported box which will be costly. The box makes or breaks the setup when it comes to ported. The dayton HO I recommended is on par to a JL w6 performance at a fraction of the price and you can buy and premade sealed box for two 12s and be fine. You can also do a single dayton ho 15 sealed as well if you want to keep your amp cost down low with 1000 rms.

A better than average comp set should give you solid base response up front. You would be best sound treating your front doors are the same time. You can leave your rears on the headunit power.

what model is your current sub amp? Is your box made to the specs of the sub?

Yes sub box is made to specs of subwoofer

 

[BCotrell]

Don’t waste anymore money on rear speakers. Also for a thousand plus dollar plus passive rockford Comp set you could get a new double din that plays active, raw tweeters and 6.5’s, and a four channel with more power to help with midbass amplification, and door treatment and still be under $1400cdn.

Midbass takes Proper door treatment and power. You don’t have a ton of that on that existing amp unless you bridge it.

Orrrr...there’s probably some guys on here that can give a stronger recommendation on a good Comp set for midbass on 150 watts per side...I’m just not sure 1300cdn comp set in a 04 vehicle is the king solution for what you’re trying to achieve

 

[ogloc.1574]

Don’t waste anymore money on rear speakers. Also for a thousand plus dollar plus passive rockford Comp set you could get a new double din that plays active, raw tweeters and 6.5’s, and a four channel with more power to help with midbass amplification, and door treatment and still be under $1400cdn.

Midbass takes Proper door treatment and power. You don’t have a ton of that on that existing amp unless you bridge it.

Orrrr...there’s probably some guys on here that can give a stronger recommendation on a good Comp set for midbass on 150 watts per side...I’m just not sure 1300cdn comp set in a 04 vehicle is the king solution for what you’re trying to achieve

If you read my post my front doors have been dynamatted and im sure I have the foam rings around the speakers (can double check).
Well the idea is i can always move the speakers to my next vehicle and same with the amps which will still be in 3+ years. If i get rid of speakers they are just gonna end up in my moms car or sold anyways so not a huge waste.
Im guessing you dont have any reccomended composites?

 

[ogloc.1574]

Don’t waste anymore money on rear speakers. Also for a thousand plus dollar plus passive rockford Comp set you could get a new double din that plays active, raw tweeters and 6.5’s, and a four channel with more power to help with midbass amplification, and door treatment and still be under $1400cdn.

Midbass takes Proper door treatment and power. You don’t have a ton of that on that existing amp unless you bridge it.

Orrrr...there’s probably some guys on here that can give a stronger recommendation on a good Comp set for midbass on 150 watts per side...I’m just not sure 1300cdn comp set in a 04 vehicle is the king solution for what you’re trying to achieve

Also found same series but not as crazy expensive. What do you think?

Rockford Fosgate T1675-S

Power Series 6-3/4" component speaker system

www.crutchfield.ca

 

[Gunk]

Not sure about your budget but some people give these high praise.

SA-6.5 CS V.2 - Sundown Audio 6.5" 100W RMS Component Speakers System

<style> .fade { border: 0; height: 1px; background-image: -webkit-linear-gradient(left, rgba(0,0,0,0), rgba(0,0,0,0.75), rgba(0,0,0,0)); background-image: -moz-linear-gradient(left, rgba(0,0,0,0), rgba(0,0,0,0.75), rgba(0,0,0,0)

www.woofersetc.com