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roughly $600 to spend on component sets what to get?
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<blockquote data-quote="fithwheel" data-source="post: 8695867" data-attributes="member: 674179"><p>If you want to go active that head would be a good starting point. If you go with the scanspeak tweeters there should be a spec for fs whatever it is double it. That’ll be the lowest you want to crossover at. So if it has a fs of 800 don’t go below 1600hz with a 24db slope and you’ll be fine. Doubt you’ll end up going that low anyway with those mids. </p><p></p><p>2.5k would be a good starting point. Treat the doors for your mids. Seal it all off with deadening and use a product like fast rings. </p><p></p><p>Haven’t read the whole thread but I imagine you’re going to be using a sub? Your mids will need to be crossed over on the low side too. 80hz is a good starting point. Tune everything separately. Meaning turn off your sub turn down your tweeters and listen to your mids when tuning your mids. If ya hear any bottoming from the mids go up on your crossover and or use a steeper slope. Personally I like 24 dB for most music but that’s subjective. </p><p>Get used to how that hu works eq,crossover,and slopes and if you want more tuning capability later then add a dsp</p><p></p><p>If that hu is worth a damn it’ll store your crossover points even when the battery is unhooked. You can run a cap on the tweeters for insurance.</p><p></p><p>Not sure what all this you need to run passive talk is all about. How are ya ever gonna get into active that way idk.</p><p></p><p>Just seen you have the 905 hu and not the 906 like I originally thought you had. To control the mids and highs through the hu you need a 3 way crossover. The 905 only has a 2 way.A dsp would be ideal for the hu you’re using to run active.Even the 906 looks to be pretty limited as far as slopes and crossover points.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="fithwheel, post: 8695867, member: 674179"] If you want to go active that head would be a good starting point. If you go with the scanspeak tweeters there should be a spec for fs whatever it is double it. That’ll be the lowest you want to crossover at. So if it has a fs of 800 don’t go below 1600hz with a 24db slope and you’ll be fine. Doubt you’ll end up going that low anyway with those mids. 2.5k would be a good starting point. Treat the doors for your mids. Seal it all off with deadening and use a product like fast rings. Haven’t read the whole thread but I imagine you’re going to be using a sub? Your mids will need to be crossed over on the low side too. 80hz is a good starting point. Tune everything separately. Meaning turn off your sub turn down your tweeters and listen to your mids when tuning your mids. If ya hear any bottoming from the mids go up on your crossover and or use a steeper slope. Personally I like 24 dB for most music but that’s subjective. Get used to how that hu works eq,crossover,and slopes and if you want more tuning capability later then add a dsp If that hu is worth a damn it’ll store your crossover points even when the battery is unhooked. You can run a cap on the tweeters for insurance. Not sure what all this you need to run passive talk is all about. How are ya ever gonna get into active that way idk. Just seen you have the 905 hu and not the 906 like I originally thought you had. To control the mids and highs through the hu you need a 3 way crossover. The 905 only has a 2 way.A dsp would be ideal for the hu you’re using to run active.Even the 906 looks to be pretty limited as far as slopes and crossover points. [/QUOTE]
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roughly $600 to spend on component sets what to get?
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