Right Wire for the BIG 3?

[stl_style 10+ year member]

I was contemplating purchasing wire from loudcartunz. He has 2/0 gauge tinned copper wire. I know copper is one of the most conductive metals. Should I be looking for all copper wire or is this tinned copper wire ok for my Big 3 upgrade? Also, would I see much of a difference in my electrical performance with 2/0 rather 1/0 wire?

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[Ellsworthz 10+ year member]

wow, just order 10ft of knu 1/0 like the rest of us.

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

Unless you have more than 300A of ground current and a long run 1/0 is more than enough for the Big 3. Tinned wire is cheaper than oxygen free copper because it can carry less current, but it is a small difference. Usually it is not worth worying about.

 

[stl_style 10+ year member]

wow, just order 10ft of knu 1/0 like the rest of us.

The Primary stock bat is in the trunk. I have never upgraded the Big 3 before. I was thinking to run the 0 from the alt to an a aftermarket bat in the trunk and ground the engine to the neg on the bat in the trunk and ground the bat to the chassis in the trunk. You guy's thoughts please!!!

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

IIRC that car already has dual 1/0 running from the engine to the trunk. If so, part of the Big 3 is already done. The only one you need to worry about is if the engine block and chassis are connected to the 1/0 ground up front. If not, add that. Other than that, just wire the additional batts in the back parallel with 1/0.

 

[stl_style 10+ year member]

IIRC that car already has dual 1/0 running from the engine to the trunk. If so, part of the Big 3 is already done. The only one you need to worry about is if the engine block and chassis are connected to the 1/0 ground up front. If not, add that. Other than that, just wire the additional batts in the back parallel with 1/0.

My entire car, Dodge charger, is wired with 4 gauge.

 

[stl_style 10+ year member]

Should I ground the engine to the chassis closest to the engine or run a 0 gauge wire back to the neg terminal on the bat. Tech Suppot with kinetic said I should run the wire back to the battery instead of grounding on the chassis, then run a very short ground from the bat to the chassis in the trunk, your thoughts pleas. Sorry to ask soo many questions. I just want to do it the best way possible, and prevent my system from picking engine noise and other interferance.

 

[stl_style 10+ year member]

????

 

[stl_style 10+ year member]

Would it be best to leave the factory 4 gauge in place and Run another o gauge from the alt to the bat, or should I just repalce the existing 4 gauge? Also, does the alt have to be grounded, or just the engine itself? Is it best to ground the engine to the chassis or to the neg terminal on the bat? Do I run my 2 batts in series or parallel? How do I choose which amp to run off which bat, if i'm using 2 lrg batts? Does both of the batts have to be grounded to the chassis, or just one? As you can see I don't know WTF I'm doing, but willing to learn, if you can spare a lil time, maybe a link or 2, thanks!!!

 

[alvitae 10+ year member]

ygpm, And I have 4 batteries right now in the trunk. They are run in parallel. Just one of them is grounded to the chassis.

When doing big 3 add wires, Don't do instead of. Don't forget to be safe and add fuses before and after batteries within 18 inches. With one fuse in between the alt and battery.

 

[QtrHorse 10+ year member]

I was contemplating purchasing wire from loudcartunz. He has 2/0 gauge tinned copper wire. I know copper is one of the most conductive metals. Should I be looking for all copper wire or is this tinned copper wire ok for my Big 3 upgrade? Also, would I see much of a difference in my electrical performance with 2/0 rather 1/0 wire?

The only difference between tinned copper and bare copper is that the tinned copper will not corrode. It is actually better.

Unless you have more than 300A of ground current and a long run 1/0 is more than enough for the Big 3. Tinned wire is cheaper than oxygen free copper because it can carry less current, but it is a small difference. Usually it is not worth worying about.

Tinned copper is normally more expensive than bare copper wire. You might be thinking of copper clad aluminum wire.

 

[stl_style 10+ year member]

IIRC that car already has dual 1/0 running from the engine to the trunk. If so, part of the Big 3 is already done. The only one you need to worry about is if the engine block and chassis are connected to the 1/0 ground up front. If not, add that. Other than that, just wire the additional batts in the back parallel with 1/0.

I'm an idiott, I went to hook up my 4 channel today, and noticed that my vehicles entire electrical is ran with, what looks to be, o gauge, says "welding wire" on the jacket. The red wire is coming from my alt, the orange wire is what I was using to run my old KX1500.1.

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[mustang76cnb 10+ year member]

looks like you have plenty then.

 

[stl_style 10+ year member]

So, it looks like, all I need to do is run 0 gauge from the 2 extra batts I plan to put in the trunk to power the amps. Do you think it would be beneficial to run 2 more runs of 0 from the alt to the extra bats or just wire the batts in parallel off the 1 bat being charged by the alt?

 

[99grandprixGT 5,000+ posts]

ya good stuff save ya a bunch or wire!