Replacing DD for JL - mistake?

ancorp
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Hey folks. I've been running a DD 2515a for a bit now. I have it in 3.8 cubes (after port and woofer displacement, otherwise 4.35 cubes) with around a 34hz tune. I feel the response is kinda peaky.

I have a Mazda 3 sedan, so the trunk opening is pretty small. The box couldn't really be much bigger then that to comfortably fit into the opening.

I recently picked up a pair of JL 12w6v2 subs. I intend to build a to spec (or bigger) box, 3-4 cubes at 32hz.

I figure with limitations on space, I would be better off with two 12s then one 15.

But replacing the DD with two JLs, am I making a mistake, or would I see an improvement in both sound quality and louder output? From threads I've searched up on google, there are many people that hate JLs and love non mainstream brands, and would say DD over JL any day. But I'd love to hear your opinion.

Currently the DD is running at 730w (at best) off a Kaption D1000.1 at 2 ohms. I intend to replace the amplifier with a Clarion that does 1500 at 2 or 1, I just haven't gotten around to buying 0/1 guage wiring and a gel battery to help run it. So regardless if I change subs, I will be feeding them 1200-1500 (depending on how much amperage I can squeeze out).

 
output not sure if it would be anymore, but a high possibly of greater sq (if installed correctly) loved my 13 w6s, wish i would have kept them.

 
well you will have more cone area id say it will be louder plus you had only 730 on the 15. sq will be better, 1500 rms or so is alot louder than 730 lol

 
well you will have more cone area id say it will be louder plus you had only 730 on the 15. sq will be better, 1500 rms or so is alot louder than 730 lol
he has about 1/2 or less motor, and the dd gets louder much much easier then the jl's.

 
So (2) W6's have less than half the motor of a single 25xx?
strength in the gap? yes. the w6 isn't that strong to begin with, then add on to the fact it's based on sq. I do not see him getting louder. I would how ever swap a 2515 for 2 w6's

 
Sorry I meant I intend to put the 1200-1500w for bass, regardless if I change drivers.

So the DD will be seeing that power soon if I dont put in the JLs. I hope it can cope with taking double it's rated power. I know people run these on 1-1.2kw, but 1.5 daily? I figure the JLs will take that better since theyre rated at 1.2k together.

I also figured the extra cone area would result in more output. The W6s Xmax ain't bad either (17mm one way).

Regardless, please continue with the discussion, I'd love to hear as much opinions as possible. Thank you for your input!!

 
w6's are beautiful sounding subs but output may or may not be greater. My question to you is was the 15 firing up or to the back of the trunk.

 
Why not get the amp first, then see if you want a different driver/s. 730rms is barely anything for that DD. And if its 730 before box rise, then that really is just tickling it. Consider rebuilding the box before anything else too.

 
the w6's really has a problem with shear output, the w7 does a much better job at that. It is a very beautiful sounding driver though. It will take some measuring and calculations to get the w6 12's to out beat the 2515. I'm guessing the 2500 was not in the best enclosure 2 12's would more then likely work better in a trunk. If you get the w6's in the most proper enclosure you can fit you may be able to gain loudness while increasing sq a great deal. It will just take some trickery on the enclosure side.

 
also if you are concerned with output you could sell all 3 subwoofers to buy a much larger 12'' which, from the sounds of it, will allow more room around the enclosure and allow you to run an enclosure with more gain and pass band.

 
I have it firing upwards. I don't think I can build a box that can have the woofer face towards the trunk lid, and also have it be of a large size, but perhaps it's doable with some careful planning and measuring. I prefer to face my subs towards the rear of the car, but figured the most important factor is corner loading no?

The port is on the side, close to the corner of the car. The port is smaller then recommended by DD. It's a 6.5" diameter port.

DD recommends 64 inches for 4 cubes. This is a bit under 4, and is not seeing that much power so I figured it's not a big deal.

I DID have enough port area before (two 6.5" tubes, resulting in around 66 inches of port) but the tubes were almost the length of the whole enclosure inside, resulting in about a 40hz tune, and only 3cf of space left inside. Seems a bit less peaky with a smaller port tuned a little lower, leaving almost an extra cubic foot of airspace for the sub. Don't really notice any port noise either so I don't think I'm choking the sub...

 
Perhaps I am better off selling off everything and maybe getting a pair of 1512s or 2512s? I'm impressed with how well the DD is built. Problem is finding non mainstream subs (DD/AQ/SD,etc) is quite uncommon here on the used market, and I cant afford new right now.

 
if you have the DD in the recommended enclosure build a new box around your car and run more power to it. The recommended specs are good for break in and that's about it.

As much as I hate to say it, I'd sell all 3 buy a single sa12'' and run it in an aperiodic bi-chamber. It's an enclosure design that is overlooked a lot and I know from personal experience how much the sa's like it. it is quite a large enclosure though so 1 12'' will be your limit for cone area.

 
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