recommendations for a XXX 07

[oxygen65]

No, it's not.


Any 18" woofer with 54mm of throw one way is not designed to blend well with a front stage.

If you believe so you aren't the sharpest tool in the shed.

While it may be a nice sounding woofer it was not designed with true SQ in mind. It is a subwoofer designed to kill in output, and be excessive.

Having an 07 XXX is a lot like doing a fat girl, it may feel good, and it'll sound good to your ear, but really all you have is a big obnoxious object that could really make the ground shake.

CT

lmao

 

[JonJT 10+ year member]

Again with inaccurate, gross generalizations.
Many SQ world championship vehicles have taken those titles utilizing 18" subbass drivers.

Hell, I have a pair of 18's waiting to be installed in my rear deck for my own "SQ" setup.

The hell? What car do you have? Your rear deck must be HUGE!

 

[cotjones 10+ year member]

lmao

why you PM me? i guess i passed your test?

 

[cotjones 10+ year member]

ok i'm probly going to go with a sealed enclosure about 50/50 F-glass/1" mdf, and a RF t30001bd... the mids/highs amp will be an old rockford power 750x...
few more questions...

what are some good comps that would go well with that substage?

i'm liking these "hertz" cause i love ribbon tweets are they any good?...

also what kinda of upgrades do you think i'm looking at electrically?

probly 0/4 awg big 3, 2 yellow tops, bout a 220 alt, and breakers instead of fuses to save some money?

still no answers! blah!

 

[adas Pro Seller]

220-300a alt, dont get yellowtops get either 2 Kinetik 2400s or 1800s to save weight/money, or 2 Stinger SP2150s. Either 2 runs of 1/0 or 1 of 0/4 will be good.

No need for breakers unless you plan on blowing fuses.

I say port the XXX....even though they sound amazing sealed, no reason for not porting it low to 28hz and gaining the output of it:fro:

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

I dont recommend breakers under the hood. Corrosion will/can change their trip point, or corrode the contacts together entirely, rendering the wire completely unprotected. A fuse can corrode itself to its holder as if it was welded and it will still protect the wire. For this reason I generally recommend fuses for protection, and just add a breaker in the trunk if you want a power disconnect switch (what most people want breakers for anyway).

 

[cotjones 10+ year member]

I dont recommend breakers under the hood. Corrosion will/can change their trip point, or corrode the contacts together entirely, rendering the wire completely unprotected. A fuse can corrode itself to its holder as if it was welded and it will still protect the wire. For this reason I generally recommend fuses for protection, and just add a breaker in the trunk if you want a power disconnect switch (what most people want breakers for anyway).

good point, so jeeze i'm looking at what like a 300-400 amp fuse for the sub amp alone, for the big fuse it's gunna have to be like 500!...( that is if i do one run from the batts to a dist. block...) i will probly run my useless 25 farad cap as the block... at least i will be able to see voltage and amp draw and have some cool blue lights

 

[cotjones 10+ year member]

220-300a alt, dont get yellowtops get either 2 Kinetik 2400s or 1800s to save weight/money, or 2 Stinger SP2150s. Either 2 runs of 1/0 or 1 of 0/4 will be good.
No need for breakers unless you plan on blowing fuses.

I say port the XXX....even though they sound amazing sealed, no reason for not porting it low to 28hz and gaining the output of it:fro:

i don't like doing 2 runs, i might be dreaming but one always seems to heat up more than the other

 

[adas Pro Seller]

i don't like doing 2 runs, i might be dreaming but one always seems to heat up more than the other

I hope your 1/0 isn't heating up.......and if both are same length going to the same place 1 should not recive more current then the other.But whatever floats your boat

 

[cotjones 10+ year member]

I hope your 1/0 isn't heating up.......and if both are same length going to the same place 1 should not recive more current then the other.But whatever floats your boat

thats the thing i'm paranoid about... getting them the same length i dunno i guess it's just a preference, plus 0/4 awg cable just looks beefy

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

If you pre-cut them, any miniscule difference in length will never become any noticeable difference in line resistance.

Even with fairly un-even length wires, assuming the same gauge, you should never see one heat up whiel the other remains cool. The heat alone shows excess resistance is present, while trhe cool one would not. Logic tells us those electrons follow the path of least resistance, both should heat up approx the same. Unless Im tired and not thinking straight tonight, which is certainly possible.

 

[bass_lover1 10+ year member]

If you pre-cut them, any miniscule difference in length will never become any noticeable difference in line resistance.
Even with fairly un-even length wires, assuming the same gauge, you should never see one heat up whiel the other remains cool. The heat alone shows excess resistance is present, while trhe cool one would not. Logic tells us those electrons follow the path of least resistance, both should heat up approx the same. Unless Im tired and not thinking straight tonight, which is certainly possible.

No, you're correct. For you to honestly be able to tell a difference in the resistance between two wires with a different length, the length would have to be quite long, like longer than any car.

 

[Maximus Audio 10+ year member]

If you talk to the designer of Kinetik Audio batteries (Rich) then you would know that using a lot of 4g runs would be better then a single big run when it comes to linking multi battery bank in the rear to the front battery or alts. This is for a few reasons. 1. you are able to fuse them using smaller fuses per run since you are spredding the power over many lines. Fusing both in the front and rear since you have power at both ends is a very good idea. 2. Power will flow on the line that has less res. Power = heat and heat makes the res go up. Multi runs will let the power pick what line is easier at that sec. THIS IS FOR MULTI BATT BANK in the rear. Batteries that are linked together in the rear sould not be linked with wire unless you have no choice. Then use only 1/0g on both power and ground. You would be better off using copper stripps about 2-3 inches wide and 1/8" thick. If you are linking just one 2nd battery in the rear then run 2 1/0g wires from the front battery one for power and one for ground. Upgrade the ground on the main battery under the hood as well as the eng ground. Also upgrade you alt wire. Use a good 4g with the stock wire. Upgrading to a 0g is a waist since the alt will then get a bottle neck effect. This may cause the stud to burn off or weaken. More info on that can be found from Guss at Ohio Gen.

 

[redeldog1 10+ year member]

i have my 12 06xxx sealed, and it sounds great, but its not as loud as it thought it will be. my 2 10w7 sealed was much louder.