Rear Fill Soundstage Question

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My headunit has time delay (I belive other processing features.), would that help/solve the problem? The headunit I'm speaking of is the Alpine CDE-164BT.
No it will not. There is more to rear fill than delay. If you want to do it right

 

---------- Post added at 12:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:15 PM ----------

 

This sounds interesting, but I doubt it is compatible with my CDE-164BT. I will try and take a look at it later.
It should be.

 
No it will not. There is more to rear fill than delay. If you want to do it right 

---------- Post added at 12:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:15 PM ----------

 

It should be.
Interesting, I would think to be compatible with a processor, you would need something a little more high end. The headunit it nice with its 6 4volt preouts, and 9 channel eq, but its more of a middle ground headunit.

 
It seems to me that rearfill would be pretty important in a high budget build, I have never heard of purposely running without any rearfill until the fourm. Doesn't it ever sound hollow or a lack of imaging to you? Imaging is one of the most important aspects of audio to me, and I would think rearfill would be very important.
I doubt you will find a winning SQ car that uses anything above 100hz behind the driver's seat.


 
Interesting, I would think to be compatible with a processor, you would need something a little more high end. The headunit it nice with its 6 4volt preouts, and 9 channel eq, but its more of a middle ground headunit.
Its just a connection and some software. Most mid level and up Alpines can do it

 
The problem with that is the best audio store we have within miles of here is bestbuy, and the best speakers they have are $60 a pair. And the tech guys know nothing about audio.
Search around online for premium speakers and they'll have "music" and "theater" lineups. You'll notice that anything "music" consists of 2 speakers (and possibly a subwoofer, though more often not).

 
It seems to me that rearfill would be pretty important in a high budget build, I have never heard of purposely running without any rearfill until the fourm. Doesn't it ever sound hollow or a lack of imaging to you? Imaging is one of the most important aspects of audio to me, and I would think rearfill would be very important.
I like it better without rear fill.

I'm not a "Sound quality" guy, but it sounds good to me

 
Line the rear deck with 6x9s
Currently my only speakers I have are the stock garbage, 6x9 type r coaxials, and 4x6 kappas, so I can't imagine the 6x9 would do much good in the 100-40hz range.. Should I (later on) buy some speakers in the 6.5" - 6x9" range and run them only as woofers?

 
Sounds like you need to figure out what you really want and start over.
Well I do want to reuse my alpine pdx-f4, and I bought the alpine cde-164bt just for the jeep, so I plan on using those. I plan on buying a 8" type r and zapco amp and sealed box to go along with it. I'm really not sure what I want. I may get raw 6.5" drivers and some raw tweeters, I may get a set of type r 6.5 components and call it a day, I may get an equalizer and run two pairs of speakers, I really don't know what I want, and the lack of places to try anything makes it really hard to decide.

 
Well I do want to reuse my alpine pdx-f4, and I bought the alpine cde-164bt just for the jeep, so I plan on using those. I plan on buying a 8" type r and zapco amp and sealed box to go along with it. I'm really not sure what I want. I may get raw 6.5" drivers and some raw tweeters, I may get a set of type r 6.5 components and call it a day, I may get an equalizer and run two pairs of speakers, I really don't know what I want, and the lack of places to try anything makes it really hard to decide.
Type R components are quite good for what they are and their price range. Just focus on good fronts, whatever money you were going to blow in rears throw that into the fronts. Most of the serious SQ builds I've seen run 3 way with a 6" or even 8" woofer in the door (or kick panel) and some 3" mids and tweets up on the dash in the corners. Close second would be buy some Q-logic kickpanels which with a little deadening work awesome and midwoofer in the door, or do what you like. 6X9's are decent but AFAIK few companies make anything particularly nice in that format, since people who care would just make some panels to fit in some round components. Playing with mid and tweeter locations IN THE FRONT will make a dramatic difference on how it sounds as will proper deadening and blocking off the back wave of mids.

 
Type R components are quite good for what they are and their price range. Just focus on good fronts, whatever money you were going to blow in rears throw that into the fronts. Most of the serious SQ builds I've seen run 3 way with a 6" or even 8" woofer in the door (or kick panel) and some 3" mids and tweets up on the dash in the corners. Close second would be buy some Q-logic kickpanels which with a little deadening work awesome and midwoofer in the door, or do what you like. 6X9's are decent but AFAIK few companies make anything particularly nice in that format, since people who care would just make some panels to fit in some round components. Playing with mid and tweeter locations IN THE FRONT will make a dramatic difference on how it sounds as will proper deadening and blocking off the back wave of mids.
Besides the one time I went to a car show a LONG time ago, alpine 6x9 type r's are the best thing I have heard. What would you reccomend for "a three way with a 6". I have no fear of mounting some kind of 6.5 in the door, a 3" or whatever in the dash, and a tweeter in the pillar, as long as it will run great on my pdx f4. I'm not quite sure how to block off back waves, or sound deaden a door pannel, but I'm sure there is a diy somewhere.

I just want to add, I though my last build sounded pretty good, but the imaging could be improved, and it lacked a little punch. (And it sounded better in the back seat because the alpines were much better speakers.)

 
Does anybody know how something like raw 6.5" woofers, raw 3" woofers and raw tweeters would compare to a component set?
That's way too broad of a question. Higher end component sets are paired based on rolloff and other factors. Are you running active or with passive crossovers?

Without looking at specs, there's no easy answer for that. Selecting random woofers and tweeters isn't the way to go if you're going for sound quality. Could end up with a gap or huge overlap in frequency. Also, sensitivity and power handling may be way different. So many factors. I'm no expert on this, other members can probably give you a better explanation.

 
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