re audio vs kicker

[adas Pro Seller]

I have a stock alt right now with about 2800watts //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/ohsnap.gif.17c4c91be09a7a4a3995fb7145adac39.gif
Call BS all you want Ryan, it might just be those honda alts:

In theory, yeah he needs more. Real world, not CONTANT tone needing all that power, just music, 2 batts and a big 3 is all ya need:veryhapp:

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

lol not sure.....

you suuuure its stock? can you only listen to your system at full volume when drag racing? lol

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/ohsnap.gif.17c4c91be09a7a4a3995fb7145adac39.gif
Call BS all you want Ryan, it might just be those honda alts:

In theory, yeah he needs more. Real world, not CONTANT tone needing all that power, just music, 2 batts and a big 3 is all ya need:veryhapp:

no way man, sorry but you dont know what youre talking about if you think bats will fix this problem. they dont create energy, they just store it.

and i have a honda...accord which i believe has 130a alt. and i see dimming with just my x200.4 hooked up.

one important thing your forgetting is the car requires power too. 2000w/14v = ~140a, yes. but if the car requires 100a to run, you have to add that on. i know the system wont push 2.5kw the whole time, of course it wont. but it will still draw ALOT of current, especially at those long bass notes.

 

[adas Pro Seller]

no way man, sorry but you dont know what youre talking about if you think bats will fix this problem. they dont create energy, they just store it.
and i have a honda...accord which i believe has 130a alt. and i see dimming with just my x200.4 hooked up.

one important thing your forgetting is the car requires power too. 2000w/14v = ~140a, yes. but if the car requires 100a to run, you have to add that on. i know the system wont push 2.5kw the whole time, of course it wont. but it will still draw ALOT of current, especially at those long bass notes.

That's very car dependant. If you get dimming with around 800w, you need better wiring, and big 3 done. My TOTALLY STOCK explorer sport trac dims more from power windows then it does from my 900w sub amp in it.
My M3, even stock electrical I didn't get dimming with a eD 9.1 putting out 1200w.

I know a little of what i'm talking about. it's all about trying and seeing what it takes to keep voltage up. another battery solved 90% of my problems, and will keep pounding at a steady voltage for at least a couple minutes, and slowly will start coming down....at idle. Stock BMW 120a alt.

Anyways won't argue with you, honda's do always seem to have pretty weak stock wiring through the car, same with my friends 04 accord coupe, he got dimming with a 500/1:crap:

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

That's very car dependant. If you get dimming with around 800w, you need better wiring, and big 3 done. My TOTALLY STOCK explorer sport trac dims more from power windows then it does from my 900w sub amp in it.
My M3, even stock electrical I didn't get dimming with a eD 9.1 putting out 1200w.

I know a little of what i'm talking about. it's all about trying and seeing what it takes to keep voltage up. another battery solved 90% of my problems, and will keep pounding at a steady voltage for at least a couple minutes, and slowly will start coming down....at idle. Stock BMW 120a alt.

Anyways won't argue with you, honda's do always seem to have pretty weak stock wiring through the car, same with my friends 04 accord coupe, he got dimming with a 500/1:crap:

my accord suprisingly has stock 4awg wiring.

it IS car dependant. but only to the extent that trucks/SUVs usually have the biggest stock alts and small 4 bangers usually have the smallest. yes, theres headroom with stock alts. a car with stock 130a alt likely wont need all 130a for the car, but it will probably need around 75% of it.

and i dont understand your logic behind the bat. you would spend around the same amount buying a bat vs. 200-300a alt (depending on brands), yet an alt would literally FIX the problem, while a bat would only supress it.

 

[adas Pro Seller]

my accord suprisingly has stock 4awg wiring.
and i dont understand your logic behind the bat. you would spend around the same amount buying a bat vs. 200-300a alt (depending on brands), yet an alt would literally FIX the problem, while a bat would only supress it.

Yeah i'd agree it's an either or. 4ga? That's not too much especially running to the starter and everything...
stock wiring in my car is a 2/0 to the car from the batt and a 4ga running from alt to battery. I just didn't want to replace my factory alt, so I did a batteery. easier.

I belive the ford trucks have 2ga running through a lot of the electrical, might help a bit.

 

[Polecat 5,000+ posts]

at the moment im running a stinger SP1000 batt and stock under the hood...stinger batt runs at 10.8 volts with the car on:crap:

then you do NOT have 2800 watts....

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

Yeah i'd agree it's an either or. 4ga? That's not too much especially running to the starter and everything...
stock wiring in my car is a 2/0 to the car from the batt and a 4ga running from alt to battery. I just didn't want to replace my factory alt, so I did a batteery. easier.

I belive the ford trucks have 2ga running through a lot of the electrical, might help a bit.

are you kidding me. you think 4awg from the bat is SMALL? ive owned and looked under the hood of MANY cars and have never seen anything even close to 4awg. 4 awg is PLENTY for stock electrical...

 

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

re or fi,no kicker=PLASTIC SPEAKERS,and thats excatly wat they sound like to me imo

i was just wondering arent the cones on speakers made out of a plastic material isnt fi and jl made of plastic

 

[Polecat 5,000+ posts]

i was just wondering arent the cones on speakers made out of a plastic material isnt fi and jl made of plastic

ALOT do....don't expect to turn around haters tho //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

i was just wondering arent the cones on speakers made out of a plastic material isnt fi and jl made of plastic

Poly dustcaps with pressed paper cones are used by many, many buildhouses.

Even when used in midbasses, it usually isn't a problem up to 3-4KHz or so, so I fail to see how it's even a hint of an issue with a sub that's going to be crossed over at 60Hz or so //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

so wether the sub is made of plastic or another material does it matter

and will it hurt the sq

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

The only way it could matter is if the material makes an impact on the structural integrity of the sub - for example, TC Sounds had a number of cone-to-surround failures with a run of aluminum coned drivers. But there are plenty of aluminum coned subs like the Rainbow Vanadium that don't have those issues.

Buy a sub because you like the way it sounds, not because of what it's made from.

 

[delvryboy 5,000+ posts]

Why dont you get a single btl 12? It will get really loud for you and sound decent and better than the l7's

btl sounds like *** compared to the L7's.........

wait, btl sounds like *** period. gets loud as hell in the right box though

 

[delvryboy 5,000+ posts]

DONT get a second bat. all that does is allow you to listen to it slightly longer before dimming starts.

not exactly a true statement