quick question

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

its not a 3k amp. certified clean is 1.6k Dynamic is bullsh*t numbers Just like in bass race 30 seconds music, you db scores dont get higher vs a 30 second long burp. WHy the fk does your power rating and amperage draw gets higher on music vs a bonafide pure torture 0 db sine wave. Most music in recording levels dont even get to -1 db let alone 0 db. When the signal strength is telling the amp to make less power how the fk do you get more power out of music huh? Only numbers worth looking at for an amp dyno is a the certified and uncertified (soft clip) numbers.

gains makeup for the lower recording levels easily. thats why we hard them.

dynamic speaks are defined as a short burst of power. the capicators store enough enegery to discharge typicall 2 times the power for sort burst. im not talinking about 2 second burps im talking 1/32s and 1/16 dumn notes that ARE recorded dynamically like alot of rock is intended.

the rend seems to be about getting as much contunious power at lower voltage so dynamic output naturally sufferes. its a design ftrade off. but alot of amps like the cab you see do excellent because of hte over built power supply and capitance. remember how compactors work. and matter fact revist how the RF 18k that only pullls 300 watss works. its cap supply is so great even under more contunious loads(music) the caps can discharge enough and nere stop the recharge cycle.

 

[los33 10+ year member]

sure that'll work, 14-16 gauge is fine up to 3-5kw rms at 1 ohm for speaker wire imo

I will just add in that this should be fine.

Ignore the other posts.. using 14-16 gauge on even 12k or more does not make so much of a difference if you are just playing music.

I would upgrade to 8 gauge if yhe subs are far from the amp

1/0 gauge power wire1/0 gauge ground

(2) SA-12D4 Rev.3 subs

CAB 1600.1 amp

now here is my question... i want to wire these down to 1ohm! as far as speaker wire, what size should i use to wire these up? i was going to use 12 gauge but the jumper wire and the positive wire joined is to big for the voice coils! would 14 or 16 gauge be ok to use?

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[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

even 12 gauge is rated for 15-20 amps which is borderline unless you use a wire per coil per speaker. then your only seeing around 400 watts..

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

I will just add in that this should be fine.
Ignore the other posts.. using 14-16 gauge on even 12k or more does not make so much of a difference if you are just playing music.

I would upgrade to 8 gauge if yhe subs are far from the amp

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to the orginal poster. i've provided actual evidence. I was an industrial electrican for over 10 years. i used these forumlas every day to meet compliance and saftey standards. i assure you these guys have no evidence to otherwise support there assumptions.

they constanly try to dissprove me and always fail to.. if you where to actually measure it. you too would prove that my calculations are infact accurate.

for over 5 years i've told people(amp designers) that dual inputs on over 2kw amps will help, now its something thats standard.

yall can keep living in this dillusion that things are magical and your tried it and its not much of a difference. its secience and im teaching you all yet Im wrong.

that being said I typically use one wire per coil and cut all my wires evenly it helps divide the load and offers better conductivity. By all means the correct way to do it, is provide a single lead from the amps terminal to a distrobution block then you can derate your conductors but thats not really logical..

 

[los33 10+ year member]

to the orginal poster. ive provided actual evidence. I was an industrial electrican for over 10 years. i used these forumlas every day to meet compliance and saftey standards. i assure you these guys have no evidence to otherwise support there assumptions.they constanly try to diprove me and always fail to.. if you where to actually measure it. you too would prove that my calculations are ifact accurate.

for over 5 years ive told people(amp designeds) that dual inputs on over 2kw amps will help, now its something thats standard.

yall can keep living in this dillusion that things are magical and your tried it and its not much of a difference. its secience and im teaching you all yet Im wrong.

that being said I typically one a wire per coil and cut all my wires evenly it helps devide the load and offers better conductivity but by all means the correct way to do it is proive a single lead from hte amps terminal to a distrobution block then you can derate your conductors, but thats not really logical..

Do you really wanna get started or are you just trolling?

We do not deal with 120 volts or more. This is 12 volt systems.

You're electrician license should of taught you that the drop in volts relieves amperage heat to allow more amperage.

Or else the wire would burn up.

Also the wire most electricians deal with are made in awg standard which can more or so handle less or more current. Traditional rates do not count in all this.

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[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Do you really wanna get started or are you just trolling?
We do not deal with 120 volts or more. This is 12 volt systems.

WRONG an amps output is AC and based on its impedance theerfor voltage varies. SO at a typical 2 ohm load your voltage for 2kw(most typical systems now n days) this is around the typical impedance load a 1ohm sub system will see except close to the boxes tuning which is pretty illervant in this case. so lets see. ohms law tells us the square root of power divided by impedance will give us amperage.

so 2000 watts RMS is rounded to 45 volts. divide that by impedance that gives you 23 amps. now this is 40 volts AC with a 23 amp load. typically common trade practices are you add 25% for the load. so lets just say 30 amps. a 12 guage wire will not carry the full load without having less than 5% voltage loss, there for your loosing power.

OFF TOPIC-slew rate on the measure of how wide and fast the amp can change voltage. 15v/us is good 30v/us is pretty ******

You're electrician license should of taught you that the drop in volts relieves amperage heat to allow more amperage.

Or else the wire would burn up.

Also the wire most electricians deal with are made in awg standard which can more or so handle less or more current. Traditional rates do not count in all this.

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im gonna be nice because i dont think your trying to insult me. but as resistance in the wire goes up the final resistance of the load remains the same(you change total resistance but the loads resistance remainds constant so power compsumption remainds constant) so your going to decrease voltage and increase amperage to get the same power. thats EXACTLY WHY wires burn up and you rate the wire for the load +25% for losses in cunductivity in any connections.

 

[los33 10+ year member]

WRONG an amps output is AC and based on its impedance theerfor voltage varies. SO at a typical 2 ohm load your voltage for 2kw(most typical systems now n days) this is around the typical impedance load a 1ohm sub system will see except close to the boxes tuning which is pretty illervant in this case. so lets see. ohms law tells us the square root of power divided by impedance will give us amperage.
so 2000 watts RMS is rounded to 45 volts. divide that by impedance that gives you 23 amps. now this is 40 volts AC with a 23 amp load. typically common trade practices are you add 25% for the load. so lets just say 30 amps. a 12 guage wire will not carry the full load without having less than 5% voltage loss, there for your loosing power.

OFF TOPIC-slew rate on the measure of how wide and fast the amp can change voltage. 15v/us is good 30v/us is pretty ******

You're electrician license should of taught you that the drop in volts relieves amperage heat to allow more amperage.

Or else the wire would burn up.

Also the wire most electricians deal with are made in awg standard which can more or so handle less or more current. Traditional rates do not count in all this.

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Most wire is rated at per sec amperage rates not millisecond rates...

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[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Most wire is rated at per sec amperage rates not millisecond rates...

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slew rate occurrs very quickly and depend on the drop out and ramp up times on the switching supplys transistors and its measured in uS. its microseconds not millseconds or seconds.

 

[The_Quiet_One 10+ year member]

Most wire is rated at per sec amperage rates not millisecond rates...


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If you seriously think that a CAB 1600.1 is capable of 3000W RMS they need to revoke your license because obviously you don't understand what RMS means since you're clearly describing Peak wattage. A couple things you definitely haven't mentioned is the associated phase angle between nor the fact that the electric field leads the current/the effects of back EMF upon dynamic bursts. If you seriously want to talk about electron drift speeds, slew rate, the e&m effects of a loudspeaker, and the physical impact different gauge wires will have with dynamic AC signals then we can...

Bottom line is OP would be fine running smaller gauge wire at the expense of infinitesimal power dissipation. I personally would go with the largest gauge that can easily fit and call it a day. If op is willing to go bigger then great if not then it's not going to be any issue running 14 ga.

 

[The_Quiet_One 10+ year member]

A better question would be how do you plan on wiring the subs in parrallel OP?

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

If you seriously think that a CAB 1600.1 is capable of 3000W RMS they need to revoke your license because obviously you don't understand what RMS means since you're clearly describing Peak wattage. A couple things you definitely haven't mentioned is the associated phase angle between nor the fact that the electric field leads the current/the effects of back EMF upon dynamic bursts. If you seriously want to talk about electron drift speeds, slew rate, the e&m effects of a loudspeaker, and the physical impact different gauge wires will have with dynamic AC signals then we can...
Bottom line is OP would be fine running smaller gauge wire at the expense of infinitesimal power dissipation. I personally would go with the largest gauge that can easily fit and call it a day. If op is willing to go bigger then great if not then it's not going to be any issue running 14 ga.

hey stupid. i never said the amp would be 3KRMS i said its dynamic rating was 3k and it does do 3k. so techinally you would rate the wire to carry the maximum current in the circuit. the lenght of time the current is pulled is irrelvant only the fact of the electrion flow capcity is high enough for the load..

the 3k figure came from wew lad. so i used it to should how much current compsumption was with that figure.

go play, i know this **** far better than you every will..

you wasted your money on school i got paid to learn //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

drop them bars *****..

BTW RMS ISN'T half of the peak figure. go figure..

 

[Massive spl]

25 ft True 8 Gauge AWG Speaker Wire Pro Cable Orange Black Car Home Audio Spool | eBay

why the f*ck would he need 8 gauge speaker wire on a pair of 600 rms subwoofers and a 1600 rms amp?

Lmao papermaker suggest 8g cca speaker wire... Why not ofc?

 

[avs20 10+ year member]

hey stupid. i never said the amp would be 3KRMS i said its dynamic rating was 3k and it does do 3k. so techinally you would rate the wire to carry the maximum current in the circuit. the lenght of time the current is pulled is irrelvant only the fact of the electrion flow capcity is high enough for the load..the 3k figure came from wew lad. so i used it to should how much current compsumption was with that figure.

go play, i know this **** far better than you every will..

you wasted your money on school i got paid to learn //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

drop them bars *****..

BTW RMS ISN'T half of the peak figure. go figure..

I've kept my mouth shut until now..but every one of your posts is the most illiterate slew of garbage that I've read. You might be smart, but you **** sure don't know how to portray that through a computer.

You should stick to being an electrician or whatever you are.

And to the OP..you'll be fine running 12-14g. I've ran 4k watts to a sub before with 12g and my truck didn't catch on fire. Imagine that.

 

[The_Quiet_One 10+ year member]

hey stupid. i never said the amp would be 3KRMS i said its dynamic rating was 3k and it does do 3k. so techinally you would rate the wire to carry the maximum current in the circuit. the lenght of time the current is pulled is irrelvant only the fact of the electrion flow capcity is high enough for the load..the 3k figure came from wew lad. so i used it to should how much current compsumption was with that figure.

go play, i know this **** far better than you every will..

you wasted your money on school i got paid to learn //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

drop them bars *****..

BTW RMS ISN'T half of the peak figure. go figure..

Lol, you're an idiot. You say the 3k rating came from wew lad, but you claim it does 3k and you need to wire for it? The general rule of thumb around anyone who does car audio is when you say it does "blank" Watts that means it does "blank" watts RMS.

You don't rate the wire for dynamic peaks in music not to mention the main source of impedance in this scenario is actively fighting any electric field changes...The electron flow capacity will be roughly the same between wires. The electron drift speed would increase to compensate for a smaller gauge wire. Amperage is just the number of electrons being pushed. If they're having to be pushed faster then you're going to have some additional power dissipation hence some power loss on dynamic peaks with smaller wire. Yes, a 3k continuous sine wave would require larger gauge wire. For a 1600W RMS amp with fairly short runs and ideally a dedicated run per woofer dude will be fine with minimal losses.

Quick question how large a wire would you need to safely ground a lightning rod?

Obviously you don't know this **** half as well as you think. Sorry I don't let you hide behind concepts that you don't fully comprehend and you get mad lol. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fro.gif.c695f1f814b01c4ad99fe7f8cccadd29.gif I don't give you a hard time for trying to bring science into the discussion I give you crap because you think you know science when your statements say time after time you are confused about some fundamental aspects of the topics you bring up. I'll give you credit though since every once in a while you're on point.

I got paid to go to school.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif Granted I only got paid a modest sum, but more than plenty to live comfortably on. It seems any idiot who does well on standardized tests and can continue to hack a degree in Physics can get funding pretty easily. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/graduate.gif.d982460be9f153bb54e5d4cb744f6ae8.gif

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Lol, you're an idiot. You say the 3k rating came from wew lad, but you claim it does 3k and you need to wire for it? The general rule of thumb around anyone who does car audio is when you say it does "blank" Watts that means it does "blank" watts RMS.

i claimed on the dynamic test it did do 3kw and if you would be smart enough to try and disprove me again you could easily quote the NEC. following is a link for the proof is CAN in fact do 3kw.


good becasue schools charge way to **** much..