Quick! Need 15" HT sub reccomendations!

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

Dayton Reference with BASH amp

isnt the dayton reference something like 800rms?

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

Who cares what the power rating is...

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

Why wouldnt i care if i am underpowering it by 500RMS?

EDIT: make that underpowering it by 200RMS? PE has two different reference models, one 500RMS, one 800RMS

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

Who says sending something less than its maximum power rating is "underpowering"?

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

Power handling: 800 watts RMS/1400 watts max

unless i am missing something...

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

I have the 500W bash.

I didn't read in the owner's manual where there is an issue with using a 500w amp. Anyone who says differently is a moron.

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

Why wouldnt i care if i am underpowering it by 500RMS?

EDIT: make that underpowering it by 200RMS? PE has two different reference models, one 500RMS, one 800RMS

What rule says you need to match, or even overpower drivers?

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

Now i'm just getting confused.

I didnt say there is anything wrong with underpowering a sub, but wouldnt it make sense to feed a 500RMS sub somewhere around 500RMS rather than spending more on a 1000RMS sub and only feeding it 500RMS?

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

800W is its maximum thermal power rating..."RMS power" if you'd like, although that's really a faulty term.

Has nothing to do with how much power you can use and still get good results from the speaker. Especially at home, you can trade off a bigger enclosure for a flatter response and use less power to reach mechanical limits.

The misunderstanding that a thermal power rating is somehow how much power you need to send the sub is why you see so many posts here complaining about blowing subs, melting tinsel leads, etc...

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

800W is its maximum thermal power rating..."RMS power" if you'd like, although that's really a faulty term.
Has nothing to do with how much power you can use and still get good results from the speaker. Especially at home, you can trade off a bigger enclosure for a flatter response and use less power to reach mechanical limits.

The misunderstanding that a thermal power rating is somehow how much power you need to send the sub is why you see so many posts here complaining about blowing subs, melting tinsel leads, etc...

now here is a helpful post. thanks.

 

[hayden 10+ year member]

If you really want to have fun (and build a sub that sounds good in HT and has enough output for parties) get two Tang Band W8-740's and build the TH-Spud clone. Danley definitely designed a beast. The output from one rivals my (2) AV15-Dual 18PR combos.

JP

 

[mobeious 10+ year member]

i got a RLP