Sup peeps, new to the forum but not new to forums in general. After a couple weeks of researching multiple different aspects of box fabrication I still have a few unanswered questions.
I plan on building a hybrid fiberglass rear and bottom, mdf/birch front/top enclosure for my 2012 wrx. The main reason for this post is because I've found very little info on fiberglass ported enclosures online. I'm pretty confident in my abilities to make one of these enclosures even though it may be a little difficult (from what I've read).
I'm going to be installing a 10" RF Punch P3. I'm currently mocking up a design with cardboard.
The most feasible option in my mind is a 3" round PVC port that has to be just under 9" according to a couple online calcs. The final box volume I'm aiming for is going to be around 1.6 to 1.3 cubic feet, and I am aiming to tuning it to 35 Hz.
A couple port exit ideas.
OR
I've read that having that 90 degree bend is going to hurt airflow. I'd like this exit because in the second design, the airflow from the port would most likely cause unwanted noise/vibrations from my privacy cover that would partially cover the port. I like the second design because it would be an easier install and I could just buy an aeroport and not have to flare the ends of the pvc after the 90 and making it flush and all that...
I haven't been to the store to see if a 3" 90 bend would actually fit in this space yet.
I guess the main purpose of this thread is to bounce some ideas around and see what's feasible.
Few notes:
1. Couldn't really find too much info on 3" vs 4" PVC port. I know (based on the calcs) If I jump to a 4" port the length basically doubles which I'd prefer not to do because I don't think I have the space. Anyone have input as to if the 3" port is going to have noise?
2. I have found a couple threads about JL Audio making a flex port which was a length of corrugated tubing with flared ports. Looks like they discontinued the product. Some people were saying the corrugation would disrupt the airflow even more than 90 degree bends. Not sure about the accuracy of any of this due to the lack of info on the subject. I was thinking of basically doing the same thing with some 3" rubber tubing with a smooth bore if I could find some, similar to radiator tubing.
3. Per RF specs a 1.4 cubic foot ported box tuned to 40 Hz is recommend. I plan on staying in that cubic foot range but I would like to try to get more output on the low end hence me aiming for 35 Hz. Any input on this? From what I've read most people usually tune lower than the manufacturers specs but usually don't tune lower than 30 Hz. I figured my lil 10 should be fine around 35 Hz //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
3. I would like to use some left over 3/4 plywood (which I'm pretty sure it's birch but it might be maple) for the front and top panels. I've read baltic birch is fine to use but haven't read much up on maple. Don't remember what species my plywood is so if I get enough comments saying maple is trash then I won't take the gamble and just go buy some MDF...
I still haven't really found a clear answer on how to bond fiberglass to MDF/Birch. Most say the resin bonds well to MDF (not sure about birch). But when I place the MDF on top of the glass base, should I screw the fiberglass to the MDF from the bottom? Predrilling of course as to not crack the glass. I'll use some liquid nails or construction epoxy as well just cause I'm paranoid. And of course going to lay more glass on the joint inside the box. I can see myself throwing everything in the trash if I get everything together and the MDF ends up separating from the fiberglass. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/suicide.gif.a649d21efc0d1fd4890a6428166586c1.gif
Example pic:
Well I guess that's it for now. Sorry for the long post, just haven't really found anything online regarding my one off project.
Any input would be appreciated!
I plan on building a hybrid fiberglass rear and bottom, mdf/birch front/top enclosure for my 2012 wrx. The main reason for this post is because I've found very little info on fiberglass ported enclosures online. I'm pretty confident in my abilities to make one of these enclosures even though it may be a little difficult (from what I've read).
I'm going to be installing a 10" RF Punch P3. I'm currently mocking up a design with cardboard.
The most feasible option in my mind is a 3" round PVC port that has to be just under 9" according to a couple online calcs. The final box volume I'm aiming for is going to be around 1.6 to 1.3 cubic feet, and I am aiming to tuning it to 35 Hz.
A couple port exit ideas.
OR
I've read that having that 90 degree bend is going to hurt airflow. I'd like this exit because in the second design, the airflow from the port would most likely cause unwanted noise/vibrations from my privacy cover that would partially cover the port. I like the second design because it would be an easier install and I could just buy an aeroport and not have to flare the ends of the pvc after the 90 and making it flush and all that...
I haven't been to the store to see if a 3" 90 bend would actually fit in this space yet.
I guess the main purpose of this thread is to bounce some ideas around and see what's feasible.
Few notes:
1. Couldn't really find too much info on 3" vs 4" PVC port. I know (based on the calcs) If I jump to a 4" port the length basically doubles which I'd prefer not to do because I don't think I have the space. Anyone have input as to if the 3" port is going to have noise?
2. I have found a couple threads about JL Audio making a flex port which was a length of corrugated tubing with flared ports. Looks like they discontinued the product. Some people were saying the corrugation would disrupt the airflow even more than 90 degree bends. Not sure about the accuracy of any of this due to the lack of info on the subject. I was thinking of basically doing the same thing with some 3" rubber tubing with a smooth bore if I could find some, similar to radiator tubing.
3. Per RF specs a 1.4 cubic foot ported box tuned to 40 Hz is recommend. I plan on staying in that cubic foot range but I would like to try to get more output on the low end hence me aiming for 35 Hz. Any input on this? From what I've read most people usually tune lower than the manufacturers specs but usually don't tune lower than 30 Hz. I figured my lil 10 should be fine around 35 Hz //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
3. I would like to use some left over 3/4 plywood (which I'm pretty sure it's birch but it might be maple) for the front and top panels. I've read baltic birch is fine to use but haven't read much up on maple. Don't remember what species my plywood is so if I get enough comments saying maple is trash then I won't take the gamble and just go buy some MDF...
I still haven't really found a clear answer on how to bond fiberglass to MDF/Birch. Most say the resin bonds well to MDF (not sure about birch). But when I place the MDF on top of the glass base, should I screw the fiberglass to the MDF from the bottom? Predrilling of course as to not crack the glass. I'll use some liquid nails or construction epoxy as well just cause I'm paranoid. And of course going to lay more glass on the joint inside the box. I can see myself throwing everything in the trash if I get everything together and the MDF ends up separating from the fiberglass. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/suicide.gif.a649d21efc0d1fd4890a6428166586c1.gif
Example pic:
Well I guess that's it for now. Sorry for the long post, just haven't really found anything online regarding my one off project.
Any input would be appreciated!
