Polk Audio 8" making cracking/hissing when no audio is playing and sounds blown

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FutsMHF

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My Polk Audio db840DVC has been making this hissing/crackling noise for the past few months when no audio is even playing. When I go to inspect the sub it looks fine, the wires look fine, it seems to be connected correctly to the amp (a Dual XPE2700 400W 2-Channel) but my brother insists that I have it wired incorrectly and the woofer is trying to act as a speaker. It still hits real low bass with no problems it just sounds like a blown speaker and sounds like it's trying to play the wrong parts of the songs. Any suggestions? Could he be right and how do I fix it?

 
Your brother has no idea what he is talking about. Every subwoofer is technically a speaker. They all operate off the same basic concept of moving at a certain frequency that you set.

If that is happening even when the music is off, then it sounds like you have a short somewhere. Check and double check all your connections and grounds and your RCA's

 
My Polk Audio db840DVC has been making this hissing/crackling noise for the past few months when no audio is even playing. When I go to inspect the sub it looks fine, the wires look fine, it seems to be connected correctly to the amp (a Dual XPE2700 400W 2-Channel) but my brother insists that I have it wired incorrectly and the woofer is trying to act as a speaker. It still hits real low bass with no problems it just sounds like a blown speaker and sounds like it's trying to play the wrong parts of the songs. Any suggestions? Could he be right and how do I fix it?
set your lpf to 100hz.

 
My Polk Audio db840DVC has been making this hissing/crackling noise for the past few months when no audio is even playing. When I go to inspect the sub it looks fine, the wires look fine, it seems to be connected correctly to the amp (a Dual XPE2700 400W 2-Channel) but my brother insists that I have it wired incorrectly and the woofer is trying to act as a speaker. It still hits real low bass with no problems it just sounds like a blown speaker and sounds like it's trying to play the wrong parts of the songs. Any suggestions? Could he be right and how do I fix it?
set your lpf to 100hz.

 
Your brother has no idea what he is talking about. Every subwoofer is technically a speaker. They all operate off the same basic concept of moving at a certain frequency that you set.

If that is happening even when the music is off, then it sounds like you have a short somewhere. Check and double check all your connections and grounds and your RCA's

 
Your brother has no idea what he is talking about. Every subwoofer is technically a speaker. They all operate off the same basic concept of moving at a certain frequency that you set.
If that is happening even when the music is off, then it sounds like you have a short somewhere. Check and double check all your connections and grounds and your RCA's
lol, a dp, wrapped by a dp. nice work.

and op, how do you have the sub wired to the amp? if it's bridged , and the subs coils are wired parallel, you'll have issues with it bridged to that amp. probably had nothing to do with your problem, tho. just a friendly fyi.

 
lol, a dp, wrapped by a dp. nice work.
and op, how do you have the sub wired to the amp? if it's bridged , and the subs coils are wired parallel, you'll have issues with it bridged to that amp. probably had nothing to do with your problem, tho. just a friendly fyi.
I love DP's //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif

 
The frequency dial is from 50-100hz so I set it to what I believe is 100hz and that seems to have solved that problem. I traced the wire back and found a couple areas where it looks like it got pinched. I'm gonna buy a new spool of wire and see if that doesn't fix it. Thanks!

 
The frequency dial is from 50-100hz so I set it to what I believe is 100hz and that seems to have solved that problem. I traced the wire back and found a couple areas where it looks like it got pinched. I'm gonna buy a new spool of wire and see if that doesn't fix it. Thanks!
make sure the "lpf" switch is on, but if you can control that from your deck, do so, and set the amp to full pass. also, that amp and sub is a poor combination. a single, dual 4 ohm sub on most bridged amps (let alone a cheaper amp like that), is a bad match. find a mono amp that will give you about 3-400 watts at 2 ohms.

 
make sure the "lpf" switch is on, but if you can control that from your deck, do so, and set the amp to full pass. also, that amp and sub is a poor combination. a single, dual 4 ohm sub on most bridged amps (let alone a cheaper amp like that), is a bad match. find a mono amp that will give you about 3-400 watts at 2 ohms.
Yeah, I wish I had more money to buy a better amp but I guess this will have to do for now. Thanks for the heads up, though. I'll keep that in mind when I'm in the market next.

 
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FutsMHF

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