Planning a new sound system🤓

[spokey9]

It doesnt matter if he runs 0g wire back and forth, the stress factor of true 3,000 isnt going to stop because of a yellow and/or red cap... these dont even have high AH - LOL

So you're the expert...so learn me something

 

[aimology101]

So you're the expert...so learn me something

Did you know I won my first SPL contest in 1991 in a chevy blazer with all ppi art class series? I sold it then went with 2 cerwan vega strokers 18' in a vehicle you've never heard of called a dodge omni

That's my free two cents.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Dodge Omni, now that was a bozo move for sure! Sticks and stones...

Now, now guys - can't we all just get along?

 

[spokey9]

Did you know I won my first SPL contest in 1991 in a chevy blazer with all ppi art class series? I sold it then went with 2 cerwan vega strokers 18' in a vehicle you've never heard of called a dodge omni

That's my free two cents.

I stealth installed the 3 batteries to power my 12" subs...didn't wanna look like a "bozo"

 

[Old_Slapper]

If you're putting it in your trunk, you better be running over 5k

otherwise youre a bozo

The guy want's CLEAN sound. Not a slapper. He would be perfectly fine with a 1000 watt 5ch amp.

 

[Old_Slapper]

For a sound quality system, you don't need a ton of power. Now, these days, many people believe you need 10,000 watts to get good sounding music. If so, then how did they do it in the 90's?

I have built quite a few SQ winning vehicles, as well as DB winners. For your car, here's what I would do.

• Single 12" sub in a sealed enclosure. A ported would be a heck of a lot louder and quite a bit of an overkill. However, a sealed enclosure will give you plenty of attention. We've done it for decades with less power.
• A good set of 6.5 components up front. A good sounding set is a personal preference.
• 5.25 components in the rear with a baffle to keep the sub from cancelling them out.
• Sound deaden entire doors and around the speakers on the rear deck.
• JL Audio 900/5 amp.
• JL Audio DSP
• Jl Audio 12w3
• 250 amp alternator.

Many will argue that JL Audio is overpriced, but they can't argue by saying it's crappy equipment.

All of this, installed, will probably run you $2500.

 

[Old_Slapper]

View attachment 57160

I stealth installed the 3 batteries to power my 12" subs...didn't wanna look like a "bozo"

Those are some sweet looking subs! I think I'm going to go out and get me a pair.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

View attachment 57160

I stealth installed the 3 batteries to power my 12" subs...didn't wanna look like a "bozo"

I'm still digesting this...

 

[Old_Slapper]

Did you know I won my first SPL contest in 1991 in a chevy blazer with all ppi art class series? I sold it then went with 2 cerwan vega strokers 18' in a vehicle you've never heard of called a dodge omni

That's my free two cents.

Gee, that got me thinking about all the different SPL winning cars I built. Let's see, Honda CRX, 300zx, Blazer, Ranger, Silverado, '94 Supra, Astro Van, Fiesta, heck, I even built a Geo Metro with 2-12" subs and 800 watts that won an SPL contest. I unseated the windshield and blew off the rear deck of a Civic with 3 Punch DVC 10's in a ported box and powered with 1000 watt amp.

Ahhhh.... the good ole days.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I entered the 3000 watt SPL competition, they disqualified me, said my amplifiers and 24" DVC sub were too big for the car! they didn't like it hanging off the back of the wall that was the rear of the car!

 

[DEW123]

For a sound quality system, you don't need a ton of power. Now, these days, many people believe you need 10,000 watts to get good sounding music. If so, then how did they do it in the 90's?

I have built quite a few SQ winning vehicles, as well as DB winners. For your car, here's what I would do.

• Single 12" sub in a sealed enclosure. A ported would be a heck of a lot louder and quite a bit of an overkill. However, a sealed enclosure will give you plenty of attention. We've done it for decades with less power.
• A good set of 6.5 components up front. A good sounding set is a personal preference.
• 5.25 components in the rear with a baffle to keep the sub from cancelling them out.
• Sound deaden entire doors and around the speakers on the rear deck.
• JL Audio 900/5 amp.
• JL Audio DSP
• Jl Audio 12w3
• 250 amp alternator.

Many will argue that JL Audio is overpriced, but they can't argue by saying it's crappy equipment.

All of this, installed, will probably run you $2500.

I like this design except I want a separate amp for sub and components. I am also a big fan of JL audio! Thanks for your help!

 

[DEW123]

I need some educating on this DSP, please explain why I need one.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I need some educating on this DSP, please explain why I need one.

There are different levels of DSP processors or amps with onboard DSP. Digital Signal Processing usually entails a lot of fine tuning options, time delay, phase, EQing, really a lot of things that take a significant investment on the behalf of the buyer or the ability to pay someone to "tune" the systems once installed. GoGo to YT and query Car DSP, then report back in a couple of... days, weeks, months, years?

 

[spokey9]

I need some educating on this DSP, please explain why I need one.

You don't need one...but it opens up a ton of tuning options...so it depends on if you want that

 

[Old_Slapper]

I need some educating on this DSP, please explain why I need one.

I guess the best way to explain it is, your factory radio was designed/tuned for the factory speakers. A DSP, designed to install an aftermarket amp to a factory radio, will help prevent these changes and allow more adjustability when tunning. The biggest problem is, with a DSP, they are pain to tune, but once tuned and set, you don't need to adjust it anymore. Either a DSP or a trunk mounted multi-band EQ will also work. I would say a dash mounted EQ, but there's nowhere to really mount one of those.