PICS! Rainbow SLC 265, Second Skin Door Install

Nexson
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Well, after getting my 2x door kits in from second skin, I decided to start on my first door. I have 12 Sq.Ft of Damp. Pro per door. I could have used just a bit more, but it is fine since I dampened them inside and out, and sealed them. I am currently waiting on a jl 300/4 delivery, in the mean time I have run the wire to the trunk where the amp will be and I have ran the wire through both door jams PITA (you can see the blue wiring just hanging out of one of the holes in the door duck taped). Right now I have the rainbow slc 265 hooked up (driver side only) to just the stock wiring through the crossover, as soon as the amp comes I'll be able to just switch a couple wires.

Well, for the project, I applied the second skin to the inside of the door, from there I cut the proper size sheet metal, sealed the openings with screws and silicone. Then applied what damp. I had left for the door. From there I installed the mdf baffle I made. (installed with butterfly nuts. I then mounted the speaker (carefully) and sealed it with non-hardening clay, anyhow the speaker sounds good, of course it will sound 10x better with the amp. I just couldn't stand to see my rainbows sitting in my closet for 3 weeks, along with my door kits I just got in. So when the amp arrives I'll hook it up. I plan to do the other side in a few days. Btw the second skin is awesome. Here's a lot of pics:)

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I should probably deaden the sheet metal, the thing is I'm out of dampener for this door. I mean I dont know if it would make a huge enough difference for me to order some more, and apply it over the sheet metal?

 
I should probably deaden the sheet metal, the thing is I'm out of dampener for this door. I mean I dont know if it would make a huge enough difference for me to order some more, and apply it over the sheet metal?
Absolutely! Think about it...it's thinner than the metal on the door and will resonate like crazy. If you are in a pinch for some deadener, just get a roll of gutter repair tape (peal n seal) from Home Depot. A good $16 fix. You will need a few layers though.

 
Absolutely! Think about it...it's thinner than the metal on the door and will resonate like crazy. If you are in a pinch for some deadener, just get a roll of gutter repair tape (peal n seal) from Home Depot. A good $16 fix. You will need a few layers though.
At wal-mart they actually sell sound deadener hehe, i think 12 bucks for I dont know much. I sure that should be fine!!

 
Hopefully your slc's arent junk like mine are.
Junk? What gives? I own a pair and they are great! Maybe a problem with the installer?

As for the thread starter, nice job on the doors, although Im not a fan of how the tweeter is mounted. THere is some serious angle on those, makes me wonder what the soundstage "looks" like. Looks like the driver side on is firing right into the steering wheel.

Why not go with the flush mount?

 
the tweeter placement is pretty much worthless at this moment. Until I have the amp hooked up to all 4 speakers and I have created my stage, then I will be able to precision mount it to get the most out of it. Right now it wouldn't matter if it was hooked up or not.

 
the tweeter placement is pretty much worthless at this moment. Until I have the amp hooked up to all 4 speakers and I have created my stage, then I will be able to precision mount it to get the most out of it. Right now it wouldn't matter if it was hooked up or not.
You've got a big sail panel there, but I think they would produce a better stage if they were placed in the door, as close to the end as possible. Like this:

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Much easier then cutting the sail panel IMO, and in my car it makes for an excellent spot for the tweeters. Only thing I noticed is my steering column is slightly in the way of the left tweeter, but it doesnt seem to effect the stage.

 
Hopefully your slc's arent junk like mine are.


How are they junk?

I just installed my SLC's. I'm not overly happy with the audio but there are alot of factors going against me.

1. Im still using the stock stereo

2. I'm using a LOC spliced into the stock wiring

3. I'm using shitty RCA's

4. My amp settings probably are off.

5. You CANNOT install speakers into the metal part of my cars door at all. The speakers are screwed onto the plastic door panel itself. It's almost as if the speakers are in a basket.

Now I did do 2-5 layers of damplifier all over my doors. There is an odd rattle ive been getting on my driverside door that I've yet to fix. But they are heavily deadened.

I dont know how to setup my amp for these. It just seems lacking in midbass/midrange. Highs are there. Bass is hitting them but it's not as powerfull as I wanted. Especially without my subs on(Took them out since im working on a new box)

Anyone wanna tackle how I should setup my amps crossovers?

It has :

A Knob that says Hi Pass, 10hz-150hz, Currently it's around 80hz

A Switch that selects Hi-Full-LP/BP, Currently its at Full

A Knob that says Low Pass, 30hz-150hz, Currently it's around 80hz

A Knob that says Bass EQ, 0dB-18dB, It's at 0dB

Then finally a Knob that says Level 6v-0.2v, It's currently midway.

The amp is a Hifonics Zxi 6006 AB 2 channel

 
How are they junk?
I just installed my SLC's. I'm not overly happy with the audio but there are alot of factors going against me.

1. Im still using the stock stereo

2. I'm using a LOC spliced into the stock wiring

3. I'm using shitty RCA's

4. My amp settings probably are off.

5. You CANNOT install speakers into the metal part of my cars door at all. The speakers are screwed onto the plastic door panel itself. It's almost as if the speakers are in a basket.

Now I did do 2-5 layers of damplifier all over my doors. There is an odd rattle ive been getting on my driverside door that I've yet to fix. But they are heavily deadened.

I dont know how to setup my amp for these. It just seems lacking in midbass/midrange. Highs are there. Bass is hitting them but it's not as powerfull as I wanted. Especially without my subs on(Took them out since im working on a new box)

Anyone wanna tackle how I should setup my amps crossovers?

It has :

A Knob that says Hi Pass, 10hz-150hz, Currently it's around 80hz

A Switch that selects Hi-Full-LP/BP, Currently its at Full

A Knob that says Low Pass, 30hz-150hz, Currently it's around 80hz

A Knob that says Bass EQ, 0dB-18dB, It's at 0dB

Then finally a Knob that says Level 6v-0.2v, It's currently midway.

The amp is a Hifonics Zxi 6006 AB 2 channel
They are nice speakers i guess, have a x over that broke, a mid that died, and about 4 angle mounts brake leaving a tweeter crunched in the door they have a good sound yeah, but the hardware for them is far from perfect.

 
How are they junk?
Anyone wanna tackle how I should setup my amps crossovers?

It has :

A Knob that says Hi Pass, 10hz-150hz, Currently it's around 80hz

A Switch that selects Hi-Full-LP/BP, Currently its at Full

A Knob that says Low Pass, 30hz-150hz, Currently it's around 80hz

A Knob that says Bass EQ, 0dB-18dB, It's at 0dB

Then finally a Knob that says Level 6v-0.2v, It's currently midway.

The amp is a Hifonics Zxi 6006 AB 2 channel
Turn the switch to high pass, when the x/o is on full, the high pass and low pass are defeated. keep all the other settings the same.

 
i got a Q for you:

You put dampening inside the door too right? but how, you took the whole door aport?

And whats that green stuff around the speakers?

that white stuff on the door, its the 2nd pix from the top. what is that? thats not used?

That kit comes with glue right?

Can you give me a website where you got your stuff?

TY

 
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Nexson

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