PICS! Rainbow SLC 265, Second Skin Door Install

[superdooperman 10+ year member]

the tweeter placement is pretty much worthless at this moment. Until I have the amp hooked up to all 4 speakers and I have created my stage, then I will be able to precision mount it to get the most out of it. Right now it wouldn't matter if it was hooked up or not.

You've got a big sail panel there, but I think they would produce a better stage if they were placed in the door, as close to the end as possible. Like this:

Much easier then cutting the sail panel IMO, and in my car it makes for an excellent spot for the tweeters. Only thing I noticed is my steering column is slightly in the way of the left tweeter, but it doesnt seem to effect the stage.

 

[Ruffy 10+ year member]

Hopefully your slc's arent junk like mine are.

How are they junk?

I just installed my SLC's. I'm not overly happy with the audio but there are alot of factors going against me.

1. Im still using the stock stereo

2. I'm using a LOC spliced into the stock wiring

3. I'm using shitty RCA's

4. My amp settings probably are off.

5. You CANNOT install speakers into the metal part of my cars door at all. The speakers are screwed onto the plastic door panel itself. It's almost as if the speakers are in a basket.

Now I did do 2-5 layers of damplifier all over my doors. There is an odd rattle ive been getting on my driverside door that I've yet to fix. But they are heavily deadened.

I dont know how to setup my amp for these. It just seems lacking in midbass/midrange. Highs are there. Bass is hitting them but it's not as powerfull as I wanted. Especially without my subs on(Took them out since im working on a new box)

Anyone wanna tackle how I should setup my amps crossovers?

It has :

A Knob that says Hi Pass, 10hz-150hz, Currently it's around 80hz

A Switch that selects Hi-Full-LP/BP, Currently its at Full

A Knob that says Low Pass, 30hz-150hz, Currently it's around 80hz

A Knob that says Bass EQ, 0dB-18dB, It's at 0dB

Then finally a Knob that says Level 6v-0.2v, It's currently midway.

The amp is a Hifonics Zxi 6006 AB 2 channel

 

[gl0ck 10+ year member]

How are they junk?
I just installed my SLC's. I'm not overly happy with the audio but there are alot of factors going against me.

1. Im still using the stock stereo

2. I'm using a LOC spliced into the stock wiring

3. I'm using shitty RCA's

4. My amp settings probably are off.

5. You CANNOT install speakers into the metal part of my cars door at all. The speakers are screwed onto the plastic door panel itself. It's almost as if the speakers are in a basket.

Now I did do 2-5 layers of damplifier all over my doors. There is an odd rattle ive been getting on my driverside door that I've yet to fix. But they are heavily deadened.

I dont know how to setup my amp for these. It just seems lacking in midbass/midrange. Highs are there. Bass is hitting them but it's not as powerfull as I wanted. Especially without my subs on(Took them out since im working on a new box)

Anyone wanna tackle how I should setup my amps crossovers?

It has :

A Knob that says Hi Pass, 10hz-150hz, Currently it's around 80hz

A Switch that selects Hi-Full-LP/BP, Currently its at Full

A Knob that says Low Pass, 30hz-150hz, Currently it's around 80hz

A Knob that says Bass EQ, 0dB-18dB, It's at 0dB

Then finally a Knob that says Level 6v-0.2v, It's currently midway.

The amp is a Hifonics Zxi 6006 AB 2 channel

They are nice speakers i guess, have a x over that broke, a mid that died, and about 4 angle mounts brake leaving a tweeter crunched in the door they have a good sound yeah, but the hardware for them is far from perfect.

 

[acold7dusta 10+ year member]

How are they junk?
Anyone wanna tackle how I should setup my amps crossovers?

It has :

A Knob that says Hi Pass, 10hz-150hz, Currently it's around 80hz

A Switch that selects Hi-Full-LP/BP, Currently its at Full

A Knob that says Low Pass, 30hz-150hz, Currently it's around 80hz

A Knob that says Bass EQ, 0dB-18dB, It's at 0dB

Then finally a Knob that says Level 6v-0.2v, It's currently midway.

The amp is a Hifonics Zxi 6006 AB 2 channel

Turn the switch to high pass, when the x/o is on full, the high pass and low pass are defeated. keep all the other settings the same.

 

[BlackMaxima 10+ year member]

i got a Q for you:

You put dampening inside the door too right? but how, you took the whole door aport?

And whats that green stuff around the speakers?

that white stuff on the door, its the 2nd pix from the top. what is that? thats not used?

That kit comes with glue right?

Can you give me a website where you got your stuff?

TY

 

[Ruffy 10+ year member]

Turn the switch to high pass, when the x/o is on full, the high pass and low pass are defeated. keep all the other settings the same.

will do, after I relax and watch some TV (Been working on the car all day)

I'm also kindof peeved about how much time I spent trying to build an amp rack intot he sidewalls of the trunk.

I'm using 1/2" MDF and it ended up TOO big. the amp was sticking out past the face of the subwoofers, i want it more flush and nice like this

http://www.caraudio.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=1731&c=2

I know if I could fiberglass I could do what I want but I dont want to get into glassing right now.

If anyone knows of a good way to mount a rectangular piece of MDF to the sidewall of a trunk let me know.

I CANNOT DRILL. The gas tank is right there.

My idea was to Jbweld some bolts sticking out, drill some holes in the mdf and line it up then hold it in with nuts. It worked for awhile but the strain eventually broke free of the jbweld bond.

I might need a stronger expoxy to do this but it might work.

Or I can try to figure out some type of strapped down design.

 

[kicker06 10+ year member]

I have the same problem. I have to install my SCSS6's on the plastic part, not the metal part behind the door. I am wondering if its going to go good at all. Its annoying. There is also this cup of foam that i think seals off behind the speaker from the whole rest of the door, making a little basket or enclosure as you said. I hope this is good.

 

[Nexson 10+ year member]

i got a Q for you:
You put dampening inside the door too right? but how, you took the whole door aport?

And whats that green stuff around the speakers?

that white stuff on the door, its the 2nd pix from the top. what is that? thats not used?

That kit comes with glue right?

Can you give me a website where you got your stuff?

TY

Although I know the door panel is a great place to put the tweeter, I just can't see myself cutting into the door at least for now. The sail panels are $5 and easy enough to trial and error with, once I get them all setup with the amp, then I'll see where it's the best.

Now for the quote above. I just went through the 3 openings to apply rhe damper which is from secondskinaudio.com. It is a bhit hard to lay the inner part of the door (lots of small cuts, but it matters!) The white covering is what I took off, its like a moisture sealer, since the doors are completely sealed now. I dont need that

 

[Ruffy 10+ year member]

I have the same problem. I have to install my SCSS6's on the plastic part, not the metal part behind the door. I am wondering if its going to go good at all. Its annoying. There is also this cup of foam that i think seals off behind the speaker from the whole rest of the door, making a little basket or enclosure as you said. I hope this is good.

by any chance do you drive a 300M, Dodge Intrepid, Chrysler Concorde or LHS?

 

[Intercooler 10+ year member]

Although I know the door panel is a great place to put the tweeter, I just can't see myself cutting into the door at least for now. The sail panels are $5 and easy enough to trial and error with, once I get them all setup with the amp, then I'll see where it's the best.
Now for the quote above. I just went through the 3 openings to apply rhe damper which is from secondskinaudio.com. It is a bhit hard to lay the inner part of the door (lots of small cuts, but it matters!) The white covering is what I took off, its like a moisture sealer, since the doors are completely sealed now. I dont need that

What year is your Civic? Mine had the factory mirror pods that were used for the CDT tweets. Maybe they are offered for yours in the SI or EX version.

 

[DeLander 10+ year member]

Hey guys! For all of your panel dampening needs, check out raamaudio.com

Rick, the owner, is a great guy. Excellent prices and products.

Even if you don't buy his products, there's an excellent step by step tutorial(with pictures) of sound deadening a vehicle.

Hope you find it helpfull. I did.

 

[AJ²06 5,000+ posts]

sure do, heres the link $7 for 2 10''x10'' sheets
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=4213081

Do they sell this IN-STORE? I wanna know without getting my *** up there. Psh....

 

[Nexson 10+ year member]

Do they sell this IN-STORE? I wanna know without getting my *** up there. Psh....

yes, its in store..

and my car is not a civic, its a 05 accord.

 

[pickup1 5,000+ posts]

are you going to use bigger speaker wire when you amp these?

 

[Nexson 10+ year member]

well I have 18 g. ran already and I'll be using that instead of the punnie stock wiring.