metalheadjoe 10+ year member
Unapologetic prick
- Thread Starter
- #16
That would be awesome! Let me know their price.Do you have a picture of this knob? I have a few Orion friends and I can see if I can find a spare.
That would be awesome! Let me know their price.Do you have a picture of this knob? I have a few Orion friends and I can see if I can find a spare.
That would be awesome! Let me know their price.
Ordered. Damn you made that easy.Oh that's just a standard knob. I just gave one to a guy from the Soundqubed group looking for one. I don't think I have anymore but I'll check and let you know.
EDIT: All I have is the FSD knobs that don't have clipping lights left.
Crescendo sells replacement knobs. I would guess they are exactly the same but not 100% sure.
Replacement Bass Knob
store.crescendoaudio.com
Potentiometers are full open & close from lock to lock. If the company suggested this knob then it should be ok.Does a bass knob use the full range of the pot since does not even make a full rotation
If neither worked, do you think you damaged the amp by using the wrong one? It would be nice if these things became standardized. Who even knows if the pinouts on the plug are the same...Potentiometers are full open & close from lock to lock. If the company suggested this knob then it should be ok.
I do suggest to anyone looking for a non-RCA bass knob to do research before plugging in a non OEM knob. I just recently changed from a JL HD to a JL Slash amp. Knobs looked identical so I just left the same one. It did not work so I swapped the new one. It did not work! I kick myself for being lazy and not changing it in the first place.
I did damage it. It was working before this time around. It should be fine because when the bass knob is not plugged in, the amp goes to full out, be it gain or boost. I do not want to pay the $360 flat fee for just the bass knob jack repair. I will use the RCA knob I have.If neither worked, do you think you damaged the amp by using the wrong one? It would be nice if these things became standardized. Who even knows if the pinouts on the plug are the same...
I agree an rca attenuator is much more reliable. I'll probably go that route. The downside is they can't detect clipping. If anyone could find a schematic for an oem remote gain with clip light, it would be incredibly easy to make a clip indicator.I did damage it. It was working before this time around. It should be fine because when the bass knob is not plugged in, the amp goes to full out, be it gain or boost. I do not want to pay the $360 flat fee for just the bass knob jack repair. I will use the RCA knob I have.
With your experience, that should not be an issue... unless you get trigger happy.The downside is they can't detect clippin
I honestly don't know if clipping actually damages a speaker. I understand that actual power increases.With your experience, that should not be an issue... unless you get trigger happy.
I say it depends on speaker quality. A normal sine wave pulls and pushes in a gentle curve whereas a clipped signal brutally yanks and shoves the cone assembly. If build quality is low the glue may crack, cone may bend, spider may tear. Coil failure will most likely be a combination of overheating and clipping. Now that I say this, I realize how important a bass knob is. I have been without one for 2 weeks and have had some songs that start off hard. Scrambling for the push button volume is frustrating. A bass knob is just a twist away.I honestly don't know if clipping actually damages a speaker. I understand that actual power increases.
It's the additional power in the clipped signal that causes the damage; ie you could kill a 1kw sub by clipping the hell out of a 500wrms amp.I honestly don't know if clipping actually damages a speaker. I understand that actual power increases.
That's what I said.It's the additional power in the clipped signal that causes the damage; ie you could kill a 1kw sub by clipping the hell out of a 500wrms amp.