Orion HCCA3000.1DSPLX Power

[.........]

This amp requires 3 each of power and ground. What is the usual means of routing power from the battery to the amp? Super large wire to a distribution block then size down to the amp?

Click to read more...

 

[spokey9]

I'm running eb flex in my car and didn't have any flexibility issues

 

[dragon.breath 10+ year member]

I don’t know if you have picked up on this yet but at that power level, you may also need to run a ground wire from the front battery to the rear battery. People think that the body of the car is huge compared to a piece of wire and should be able to carry almost unlimited amounts of current. But it’s not true. A modern unibody car is tack welded together then seam sealed.

My friend’s Maxima was losing 1.1 volts under load between the front and rear batteries at around 3200 watts rms total. We added his old 4 gauge wire as a ground between batteries and the drop went from 1.1v to .4v.

 

[.........]

So far as charging goes, how do I figure out what alternator to use?

To note: this system will be used for my entertainment purposes only. I have never and will never enter a competition...but would like to go to one.

 

[djdilliodon!]

What is an acceptable value for the resistance?

I look for .1 or less, if nothing meets that, do a run directly to the battery. My current car I got lucky with a solid ground in the back. The next one I’m sure I won’t

As far as strand count goes in wire, more thinner strands means more flexible, less thicker strands less flexible. Thicker stranded wire of the same overall size can handle more current but if flexibility is needed it’s just not practical. I’ve seen 500 mcm size cable handle 1200 amps at 123 volts. I’m talking continuously, no breaks, just none stop! That run was 223’ long! This is thick stranded cable and is a mofo to bend. I’ve seen 4/0 handle 475 amps at 122 volts continuously on a run that was 140’ long. This is also solid stranded cable. I’ve tested welding style cable jumping services with huge amounts of draw. Finer stranded cable has its limits. I’ve melted many 1/0 jumpers made from welding cable . The saying “it takes real wire to do real work” is 100% true. It’s just most setups in car aren’t drawing constantly unless you are playing test tones. Whatever the max draw is, realistically you will draw half that while playing music. Some bass notes it may reach above but it will only be for a second. If you did 2 1/0 runs, you can play it however you wish and will never come close to exceeding the cables limits.

 

[HardofWhoring]

So far as charging goes, how do I figure out what alternator to use?

To note: this system will be used for my entertainment purposes only. I have never and will never enter a competition...but would like to go to one.

if you take 3000w divide by amp efficiency which is 88%. 3000 / .88 = 3409w. That is your amp draw. Then divide that by voltage, 12v when off, 14.4 (used to be standard) when running. 3409 / 14.4 = 236 amps. That's the amperage draw at full volume maxed out, when you are setup to run 3,000w.
If you go 4,000w / 14.4v =277.7 amps.

Then you need to add on to what your vehicle does. Generally your stock alt is going to do everything it can maxed out: EFI, ECU, electric fans, low beams, high beams, brake lights, AC, interior lights, (stock) radio, cig lighter, dash lights, and have a little bit of head room.

Your amp doesn't constantly draw 277 amps even when you have it full volume, just when the heavy bass hits. Between that it's recharging, so it's relative to what music you listen to. Rock and country have more time between to recharge. Rap and generated bass music has a little. With 277 amps, I would say the range is about 200 -250, and you would never have a drop in voltage.

With your vehicle and you live somewhere cool enough that you don't use the AC, or hot enough where you use the electric fans, then you're never going to need 2/3rd of what your stock alt can do.

IMO, an alt is something you DO NOT want to buy twice, because you are going to upgrade to 12% more. A good one is a decent chunk of money for your system. With your amp being capable of 5K watts, and if you EVER MIGHT want to upgrade subs to that amount, I would go bigger now. I honestly wouldn't expect to find too many options for a 2000 Camry though. If you can find 250-300 you should be good.

Also know that when you do go shopping for an alt, there are two numbers that matter.
Amperage output at or near idle, (what will it do when you're at a stoplight), &
RPM needed for max output. (What will it put out at cruising speed).
A 300amp ebay alt is going to do less at idle than your stock ~100 amp alt, and won't do full output until over 3K rpm. Well where do you cruise at? Will you ever even see that output? A high quality alt will do most at idle, and full output around 2K rpm. Think about how you drive, and where you listen to it, and know what RPM you cruise at, or are usually driving at. Get those two numbers before you buy, and if they won't or can't give them to you, then keep shopping. That's going to be the difference between a $200 alt, and a $600 alt.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I don’t know if you have picked up on this yet but at that power level, you may also need to run a ground wire from the front battery to the rear battery. People think that the body of the car is huge compared to a piece of wire and should be able to carry almost unlimited amounts of current. But it’s not true. A modern unibody car is tack welded together then seam sealed.

My friend’s Maxima was losing 1.1 volts under load between the front and rear batteries at around 3200 watts rms total. We added his old 4 gauge wire as a ground between batteries and the drop went from 1.1v to .4v.

I think that I mentioned something to that affect earlier. Anymore, newer cars especially, i use parallel grounding. Never have any grounding problems since.

https://www.bestcaraudio.com/car-audio-myths-you-cant-ground-a-car-audio-amplifier-to-the-battery/

I mean an extra $125 to $150 after dumping several thousand $$ into the system seems like a bargain to get out of it what you put into it.

 

[.........]

So I looked at mechman alternators. They don't have one to fit my car. What are some other reputable brands that don't break the bank?

 

[.........]

if you take 3000w divide by amp efficiency which is 88%. 3000 / .88 = 3409w. That is your amp draw. Then divide that by voltage, 12v when off, 14.4 (used to be standard) when running. 3409 / 14.4 = 236 amps. That's the amperage draw at full volume maxed out, when you are setup to run 3,000w.
If you go 4,000w / 14.4v =277.7 amps.

Then you need to add on to what your vehicle does. Generally your stock alt is going to do everything it can maxed out: EFI, ECU, electric fans, low beams, high beams, brake lights, AC, interior lights, (stock) radio, cig lighter, dash lights, and have a little bit of head room.

Your amp doesn't constantly draw 277 amps even when you have it full volume, just when the heavy bass hits. Between that it's recharging, so it's relative to what music you listen to. Rock and country have more time between to recharge. Rap and generated bass music has a little. With 277 amps, I would say the range is about 200 -250, and you would never have a drop in voltage.

With your vehicle and you live somewhere cool enough that you don't use the AC, or hot enough where you use the electric fans, then you're never going to need 2/3rd of what your stock alt can do.

IMO, an alt is something you DO NOT want to buy twice, because you are going to upgrade to 12% more. A good one is a decent chunk of money for your system. With your amp being capable of 5K watts, and if you EVER MIGHT want to upgrade subs to that amount, I would go bigger now. I honestly wouldn't expect to find too many options for a 2000 Camry though. If you can find 250-300 you should be good.

Also know that when you do go shopping for an alt, there are two numbers that matter.
Amperage output at or near idle, (what will it do when you're at a stoplight), &
RPM needed for max output. (What will it put out at cruising speed).
A 300amp ebay alt is going to do less at idle than your stock ~100 amp alt, and won't do full output until over 3K rpm. Well where do you cruise at? Will you ever even see that output? A high quality alt will do most at idle, and full output around 2K rpm. Think about how you drive, and where you listen to it, and know what RPM you cruise at, or are usually driving at. Get those two numbers before you buy, and if they won't or can't give them to you, then keep shopping. That's going to be the difference between a $200 alt, and a $600 alt.

I'll not be upgrading it after it's built. This will be the last system I will ever install in a vehicle I own. I have my mind set on a couple Orion HCCA124 subs wired to 1 ohm. The subs are 2500 watts RMS capable and together should be able to handle what the amp throws at it. I have an XTR2500.1Dz that the birth sheet states has 2971 watts output. The single HCCA122 I have connected to it handles it just fine. Although it does start to have a smell after pounding it for about 10 minutes.

 

[some dude]

Is your camry a v6?

I have a 99' Avalon with 3liter v6.

I'm going from memory here but can verify if needed...
The stock alt in my car is 100amp

A 2005 Sienna uses a 150amp alternator. RockAuto has a ton of them for $150.

It's a direct bolt on replacement. The only difference is my car has 3 pin harness connection, Sienna has 4pin.

I just plugged in the 3 wires my car uses, 4th pin left unused.

And that's how I got 50amp increase for $150

 

[some dude]

I have that Sienna 150amp alternator, 1 80amp/hr AGM under hood.

I've got a good 3500 watts installed (Incriminator ix3.1 + interior amp)

My voltage stays around 13.9.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Fill this outand they will let you know if they have what you need. I have dealt with Nicholas, he's great and they are a respectable lot.

Apex Alternators

Customized High Output Alternators

apexhighoutputalternators.com

 

[Firewalker]

J&S does great work, fast, reliable and the customer service is excellent. Every other company I tried to get one for my Ford 4G Explorer gave me a run around. Some couldn't even get their answers straight enough to lie decently. J&S was straight forward from the get go and the pricing was awesome 379 for a 320 amp alternator and had options up to 400 or more for it. Even Apex gave me the run around as well.

 

[spokey9]

J&S does great work, fast, reliable and the customer service is excellent. Every other company I tried to get one for my Ford 4G Explorer gave me a run around. Some couldn't even get their answers straight enough to lie decently. J&S was straight forward from the get go and the pricing was awesome 379 for a 320 amp alternator and had options up to 400 or more for it. Even Apex gave me the run around as well.

I'm running a J&S 320...no complaints or issues with mine

 

[.........]

Is your camry a v6?

I have a 99' Avalon with 3liter v6.

I'm going from memory here but can verify if needed...
The stock alt in my car is 100amp

A 2005 Sienna uses a 150amp alternator. RockAuto has a ton of them for $150.

It's a direct bolt on replacement. The only difference is my car has 3 pin harness connection, Sienna has 4pin.

I just plugged in the 3 wires my car uses, 4th pin left unused.

And that's how I got 50amp increase for $150

No. Mine has a 2.2L 4cyl. I had thought about calling alternator shops around me and see if any could sell me an upgrade kit if such a thing exists. But the stock alt. in the 2000 model is 90A.

 

[.........]

J&S does great work, fast, reliable and the customer service is excellent. Every other company I tried to get one for my Ford 4G Explorer gave me a run around. Some couldn't even get their answers straight enough to lie decently. J&S was straight forward from the get go and the pricing was awesome 379 for a 320 amp alternator and had options up to 400 or more for it. Even Apex gave me the run around as well.

This is from their site: