Orion 2500D no louder than JL 500/1

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

definitly play with amp settings

but its all installdependant in ur car and his....if he hasa tiny *** hatchback then i can see where his system would sounds remarkable good and make a mediocre install with an orion 2500d look shasty. besides install the biggest factor is the box, ported boxes are tricky because a realllly well built ported box built to specs will sound amazing and a prefab or poorly built ported box will sound so horrible it'llbe like night and day. was ur box prefabricated? double check the ohm config of the subs, could be accidentally wired to 4 ohms (whi is still a good amount of power out of that thing)...for some reason or another you're not getting alot of out the amp and it's not JUST a new alt upgrade to fix type deal. make sure ur intall and box are as good as possible

 

[Excalibur0428 10+ year member]

its a '97 Pontiac Grand Prix GT.

HP is already on. Its not that though. Even without that on, it should be MUCh louder than it is now. Ive seen the movies of this set-up at thecaraudiobox.com and my subs def. aren't putting out like those are. At 2500watts that blazer's whole car was flexing about an inch. All im getting is a little rattle in my back compartment :\

 

[skadude016 5,000+ posts]

its a '97 Pontiac Grand Prix GT.
HP is already on. Its not that though. Even without that on, it should be MUCh louder than it is now. Ive seen the movies of this set-up at thecaraudiobox.com and my subs def. aren't putting out like those are. At 2500watts that blazer's whole car was flexing about an inch. All im getting is a little rattle in my back compartment :\

only a little rattle? Yeah def. check to make sure you wired the woofers correctly. I would say that is were your problem is. what size is your box and what is it tuned to?

 

[Ignatowski 5,000+ posts]

lol

thats like saying my Porche is no faster than my old Civic:crap:

 

[Excalibur0428 10+ year member]

I have no idea how big the box is or what it is tuned to. I went to a car audio store near me and he said the box was a really nice box for these subs. I know its not a GREAT box, but I will be ordering a box from thecaraudiobox.com soon with a few more paychecks.

Still, my main concern is that the amp is receiving less than 100amps when its known to pull 200amps. Im pretty sure the amp is receiving about 50amps. If im not mistaken, its VERY bad on the amp and will make it run very bad. True?

Like I said before. There's a 100amp fuse in power cable and it has yet to be blown. Therefore, their is less than 100amps going to the Orion. Correct me if im wrong.

 

[NhustlaR 10+ year member]

go check the gain setting tutorial. stop asking us questions, and go experiment. unless you get pictures of how the amp is set and how you have it installed, we cannot help you that much.

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

Have you triple checked the subs wiring?

Where is the gain set?

 

[Excalibur0428 10+ year member]

well, I just had my subs checked about a half hour ago. The subs were out of phase, so that is fixed. They said that my amp was burning up. You can smell it. So im pretty sure I just need to run a Cap and a HO alt. The guy who hooked me up said I would be able to run ONE 4 gauge to my distrubution block and two 4 gauges out of that. Doens't sound right to me. It's how I have it set right now. Pretty sure i need to change it to a 1 or 0 gauge to the distribution block.

If you don't want to help then just don't respond to my thread. I've searched and can't really find anything that helps me that much. I've already tried setting the gain. Doesn't work. When it gets to the point where my amp is burning and about to blow. I think its time for me to stop experimenting.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Sorry I don't know as much as you, but everyone starts somewhere.

My gain was set about 3/4 up. I turned it down to 1/2 and their is VERY little output.

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

So im pretty sure I just need to run a Cap and a HO alt.

No need for a cap.

The guy who hooked me up said I would be able to run ONE 4 gauge to my distrubution block and two 4 gauges out of that. Doens't sound right to me. It's how I have it set right now. Pretty sure i need to change it to a 1 or 0 gauge to the distribution block.

I'd stop asking that guy for help....LOL.

You *could* run 4ga in and two 4ga out....but that's worthless as you'd still be limited by the one 4ga input wire. You are correct, run 0/1 then split into two 4ga (at a minimum)

My gain was set about 3/4 up. I turned it down to 1/2 and their is VERY little output.

How was the electrical system? If it wasn't struggling, then upgrading the electrical system isn't going to help you at this point in time. If it wasn't struggling, then you still need to investigate what the problem is....why the amp isn't pulling much current.

 

[Excalibur0428 10+ year member]

yeah im not listening to him anymore.

Well, when I turned it up, my lights would dim enough to where I couldn't see at night. Upgrading the electrical system is definently a must.

I think the amp is burning up because its TRYING to pull current, but theirs none their. I run a huge P.A. system w/ many $1,000 amps that push out 5,000 watts and they HAVE to have the exact amount of current required or they burn up and don't work. I thought I'd be able to use the same concepts as professional audio as car audio, but its totally different. The amps I run for the P.A. plug into a wall and thats it. Car audio is a lot more different than I thoguht it'd be.

Its got to be that im just not supplying the amp with enough current. So it's pulling all the current that it can get which is a very little amount and by doing this, its burning up and producing very little output. I just dont want to go out and buy a huge alt. and find out that it wasn't the problem.

 

[tRiGgEr 5,000+ posts]

Your problem IS electrical. A new battery and 1/0 gauge is a REQUIREMENT. Then look for a HO alt. Your little 105 amp alt is not enough. It is supplying the car around 30-75 amps. Not much left for your amp. And it will only produce 105 @ full RPM's...

 

[hcoronado 10+ year member]

what up dawg! I was reading one of your replys in page one and you said that both power inputs are receiving 14.1 volts each.

are you talking about the amp or the fuse?

if it is the fuse then right on! but if it is the amp then you might have a problem there.

One input is battery constant 12 to 14 volts depending on alternator. (from battery )

the other input is a remote signal which should only help jump start the amp (POWER ON) (from HU)

then you have your negative input (ground).

I am not familiar with that specific amp but please correct me if i am wrong but it sounds like the remote's voltage is too high!

where is the remote wire coming from? stereo? or battery?

 

[HeatSeeker 10+ year member]

You have BOTH the power/ground inputs on the amp connected?

 

[cversion7 10+ year member]

I did part of the big three. I ran two 4 gauge wires from the battery to the ground.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif There are a lot more wires involved in the big three and without upgrading them all, you're still going to be limiting available power to the smallest one. My alternator to battery wire (stock) was like 12 gauge. I added 4 ga to that, added a 4ga battery neg to chassis ground and one from battery pos to fuse box (should have also done batt neg to motor, but didn't) and it made a big difference. I'm soon to be putting in a 2500d and have already upped to 1/0 cabling in preparation and will run a 1/0 to dual 4ga distribution block and put one 4ga to each amp. Also will be upgrading the alternator to a 200amp because I was still dimming with my stocker (105amp) with 1200 watts.

 

[3.5Max6spd 10+ year member]

have you opened it up to see that theres more than just a few energizer batteries in there?