details are important. you missed these
i added all details in first postwell 12.2 ain't great , but at least it ain't really harmfull
it might but im still wondering wby you getting such a terrible drop of voltage. i know that bt isnt helping for sure. this has become a really big cliche but how are your grounds?i added all details in first post
yes, 12.2 is probably why I fried my amp a few months back... my amp is only pulling 50A right now due to 12.2
will eventually kill my alt, and then kill my batts
It jumps right back to 14 after the note hits... I wonder if going with a kinetik will give it a faster recharge...???whaddya guys htink
all soldered terminals...all bolted, grinded groundsit might but im still wondering wby you getting such a terrible drop of voltage. i know that bt isnt helping for sure. this has become a really big cliche but how are your grounds?
not sure on specs...its the Deka D31...thing is a hog...lots of people on here swear by it....Alt doesnt even have a -terminal on it :-(rating on the deka?
there's an outside chance that you're cars chassis isnt the best for moving the amount of current you're demanding. I'd get some more 1/0 and have a dedicated negative run directly to the neg post on the alty. Did wonders in a setup consisting of a 220amp alt, 1 yellow top, and a mojo4kw. I think you would see a difference.
other then that it just sounds like the BT cant handle the stress and/or you dont have enough battery power to back what that amp demands. if you do decide to change up your batteries get a powermaster XS d3100. it'll be the last battery you ever buy //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif if you can find a used one in good condition around the $250 ish range you're set. I personally would get a d3100 for the back and another smaller XS up front.
how close is the amp to the back battery? closer the better. doubt it'd make an auidble differance but any little bit helps.
Agreed. If you spent that much money already, whats another $40 for some knu 1/0 CCA?there's an outside chance that you're cars chassis isnt the best for moving the amount of current you're demanding. I'd get some more 1/0 and have a dedicated negative run directly to the neg post on the alty.
i'll spend another 40...just not another 250 for another HUGE batt... as I said, gas is already down 7-8MPG from this sytem.Agreed. If you spent that much money already, whats another $40 for some knu 1/0 CCA?
You can check the amp ground to front batt ground with a meter and make sure it is near 0 ohms.
Also put a clamp meter and check the current going to the amp at different volumes and post back.
You really didn't give us much details and from your posts it sounds like you don't want help?
We all make sacrifices.i'll spend another 40...just not another 250 for another HUGE batt... as I said, gas is already down 7-8MPG from this sytem.
as far as wanting help...this is like my 3rd thread on what to do... i've done everything else that's been recommended... I already got it clamped.. it did fine at 200A, but was only pulling 50A from the amp, but thats prolly because the voltage is so low.. Guy who did the test has CA experience...he said the ALT is fine, just seems like the Batts arent getting re-charged fast enough...which is why I brought up the idea of the Kinetik...they are made to have a faster recharge than your typical deep-cycle battery
as far as checking the amp ground for current, should I just run a jumper wire from the amp ground to the front batt??.. obviously the DMM won't reach from front batt to amp in back
the extra run of 1/0 will make a bigger difference than you think... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif