I had no trouble running the wires with 8 gauge, and I cannot imagine that 4 will be that much tougher. I just need to figure out whether or not the amp that I have will accept 4 gauge, or whether I will need a reducer just to insert it into the terminal.I've got a pair of the REV coax's and really like them and they get plenty loud when needed. Haven't heard the REV comps though. Also put a pair of the Assassin 8's in the GF's car. Wanted 10's but they were out the day I stopped in. VERY happy with those subs and they take up little trunk space.
I've got an Altima and a Sentra is pretty much the same car and VERY easy to run wires to the back, so you're install will be very clean and not hard.
Good luck from another "old" guy //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
Its a secret. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gifWho 'dis? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Is this Don? Edit- of course it is...Its a secret. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif
Yes. Most A/B's of 400w and up and most D class of 600w and up will accept 4ga inputs. If they dont the company likely isnt putting out a very decent product. Biger power and ground make the amp run more efficent and reduce voltage drop to the amplifer.I sincerely doubt that I will run 2 amps, btu that is always a possability, if I go crazy. Like I said, I doubt it, but it could happen. I am more likely to sell the car before that happens. Speaking to specific gauges of wire, will a 4 gauge actually fit in the terminals of most amps? Let's assume that I will only run ONE amp, ever. If I run 4 gauge, will it fit in the terminals? And is there a chart where I can see how many watts a particular gauge of wire can support, over a given length?
14ga is fine. I just reccomended 12ga because it's the biggest they have and bigger is always better. If you already have enough 14ga to do the job then you are fine.I have a roll of 14 gauge. Is this enough for components? If it will really make a difference, I can get 12, but it seems like a shame to waste a whole roll of 14 if I have it. I will obviously use 12 for the sub.
Meh. I'm not sure hod deep the poly mids are. It is going to be challengting to get a good set of midbasses in there less than 2.5".The Daytons are too deep. Even with a spacer, I have an absolute limit of a 2.5" speaker mounting depth for my mids. The Daytons are 3." I will look at the other ones. I remeber hearing a car with Vifas a while back, and they were sweet. I also need to see if they will fit in the stock location. Since I may trade in in a few months (this summer, hopefully), I want to be able to go back to stock.
The Assassian looks good on paper. I like the box size requirements- and the price.
It isnt all too hard once you get into it. Just mask well, put down a light coat of resin, lay your mat down, then soak and dab it. Do 3-4 layres before you pull the mold off of the trunk. Use your dremel or jig saw to cut the pattern you want then glue your speaker ring out away from the mold with dowle rods. Make sure it is strong and then stretch youre fleece using staples or tape or glue to hold the fleece. Soak the fleece in resin then do 2-3 layres of cloth on the outside. Glue some bracing on the inside. If yo ucan push on it with your finger and it doesnt flex it is strong enough. Then bondo and sand untill ti is smooth, then carpet. There are plenty of good tutorials on the internet.It looks daunting, but people have figured it out, so I am sure that I can as well, with patience and a good tutorial.
I'm a Ported/Good Bandpass man myself. More bang for buck as far as wattage is concerned. But I got just a little bit of basshead inside me. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gifI have had sealed and ported enclosures, and I really like a properly-powered sealed enclosure. I have had good luck with small, well-powered subs with quick response times.
That kit would suit your needs just fine my man. You could built your own with cheaper 4ga wire for a little less but that is all inclusive so go ahead and spring for it if you think that is what would work best for you. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gifOkay, I poked around on the wiring site (KnuKoncepts?) and found this:http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK44
With the addition of a d-block, that shoud cover me, right? Or should I buy it in peices and get the dedicated 4-channel signal wires buy pwr wire on its own?