Oh Noes! Someone help meee :(

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

So I think something bad happened today.

That is measuring resistance...

no resistance between the + and - of the amp means that somewhere in the amp the wires are crossed.

No smoke, no smell, no nussing... the only thing that led me to the conclusion that something was wrong was the fact that the green "power" light was off.

so wtf?

Click to read more...

 

[imaspaceguy90 10+ year member]

Could be the pwoer supply on the side or a fuse, a pic wont help all tho.

 

[InhumanAcura 5,000+ posts]

the amp will have a bit of juice stored in the capacitors...does it work?

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

ok here are some stipulations:

1.) subs are sealed common enclosure, i dont know how loud they "should" be, because i'm firing back and may have cancellation. this means if one sub goes out they will still both move.

2.) the only time i checked to ensure that both amps worked was when i initially installed them, which would be with no signal to them (hu volume zero)

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

i took it apart. or rather, i took the bottom cover off to see the insides. and nothing looks charred at all (unlike the RE 35.1d that went out on me a year+ ago)

oh, shit.

 

[wgaede 10+ year member]

check with a diff DMM?

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

first post updated (smaller pic, better explanation)

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

check with a diff DMM?

the 100amp fuse that i had in my distro block went out as well, and while i was trying to swap it out, i arced between the parts of the distro block. this is what led me to check it with a DMM...

so basically it makes sense that the + and - is bridged somewhere in the amp... so i didnt. and i dont have another DMM either

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

Can anyone help me out a little, here?

 

[InhumanAcura 5,000+ posts]

was the amp working, then cut-out...or did it just not work when you tried to turn it on?

just trying to get on the same page..

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

I'm pretty sure the amp had been working, and cut out during a "peak" usage time (aka playing loud)

But it wasnt a noticable thing because I had the two separate amps on the two separate subs in the common enclosure.

OK here's the situation

I had both subs in, and both amps in, and they played, and they both played, and i know this, because when i would swap polarity (using my alpine processor) there would be literally no bass due to enormous cancellation.

So yes, the amp had been working previously. I have no idea what could have caused it, maybe clipping (but there's nothing burnt on the board and i'm not stupid when it comes to pushing things past it's limits).

however it is in a pretty "temporary" installation, not mounted down, but mounted to a board that kept it from sliding too far. maybe it got jostled...

what could cause the amp's power terminals to be bridged inside of the board?

Brian

 

[Bake 10+ year member]

Sounds like a short in there somewhere. You can open both of the ones you have and do a little signal tracing in there to find the faulty component. Since the green light doesn't even come on I would start in the power supply.

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

yeah man, i gues I do have two, and yeah there's a short somewhere. But the thing is, since the short didnt "burn up" before the fuse did, doesnt that mean that the short has a current capacity larger than 100A? (btw it burnt up a 100A fuse in the distro block)

So shouldnt it be kinda a flamboyant problem once I open it up? (which I have already done and found nothing)

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

i just drove to school and did some listening.

The amp definitely had been working up to, say, approximately a week ago at most, but then sometime between then and now, it stopped working.

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

OK more info about the amplifier(s)!

While I was comparing the amplifiers side by side, I tested the following:

This is testing Resistance:

BROKEN AMP:

DMM+ to Amp+, DMM- to Amp-: No resistance (aka bridged/shorted/etc)

DMM- to Amp+, DMM+ to Amp-: No resistance (aka bridged/shorted/etc)

WORKING AMP:

DMM+ to Amp+, DMM- to Amp-: No connect (aka not bridged)

DMM- to Amp+, DMM+ to Amp-: No resistance (aka bridged/shorted/etc)

Basically, the amp should allow current tho flow through backwards, but not forwards. Maybe I am dealing with a defective diode somewhere?

If you need I can try to explain it better...